why 6250 for a red line??
#1
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why 6250 for a red line??
i recently had a chat with a local guy who had done a few mods to his 06 gt and in passing he mentioned that he raised the rev limiter up to 6600
rpm, he also said that the valvtrain was good to 7000.
so why 6250? is it that the thing doesnt make power past that point or am i missing something.
im a fan of big rpms and would love to turn mine harder than 6250 but only if will live at the higher revs.
my roadster motor will turn 9000 , i get goosebumps thinking about it!
jay
rpm, he also said that the valvtrain was good to 7000.
so why 6250? is it that the thing doesnt make power past that point or am i missing something.
im a fan of big rpms and would love to turn mine harder than 6250 but only if will live at the higher revs.
my roadster motor will turn 9000 , i get goosebumps thinking about it!
jay
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Originally Posted by AnotherMustangMan
There's no point, your S2K (if I'm assuming correctly) makes power up to nine grand, the 'Stang may survive at 7k but there really isn't much more to be had from the motor.
thats kinda what i thought.
s2k??? as in honda s2000 never
roadster as in........
#5
I wouldn't want to stay above 6500 rpm without a forged crank. I think the stock pistons and rods are ok. I think the motor makes power until 6600-6800 rpm so the car should be faster shifted at higher rpm. I just think you're losing alot of engine life when you do it.
#7
I thought I read somewhere that the spanish oak computer system gradually decreases the throttle as you get closer to the set rev-limit. so by raising the limit to 6600, you'll get full power up to your shift at 6k or so.
#9
Dysan is right on. We set out limiter 400 or 500 rpms higher than where we want to shift so we can shift before the torq nanny kicks in and slows things down to make it easier on the motor if we hit the rev limiter. The idea is to shift before the nanny comes on. so if you want to shift 6300, then set the limiter to 6800. On a pretty much stock car, I think 6800 is a good place to set it, and that is what Bamachips and Brenspeed set it it, for the above reason.
Just because it is set up there, doesnt mean you should use it all. its just a precaution.
Just because it is set up there, doesnt mean you should use it all. its just a precaution.
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Originally Posted by 1trickpony
I wouldn't want to stay above 6500 rpm without a forged crank. I think the stock pistons and rods are ok. I think the motor makes power until 6600-6800 rpm so the car should be faster shifted at higher rpm. I just think you're losing alot of engine life when you do it.
an old engine builder once told me that,"forged cranks are for guys who cant sleep at night" and as far as i know the week point in the 3 valve motor are the powdered rods.
the rpm potential is usually limited by the cams and valve train.
id love to see someones dyno sheet with a stock tune with out the limiter set to 6250. that would be the best way to see where the power drops off.
jay
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Originally Posted by AnotherMustangMan
Wow! That thing is only nine million times more badass than any S2000. Haha, so much for my assumption...
i built it in my garage over a period of about 7 years.
0/100/0 in 13 seconds, 1.75g's in the corners.
best engineered at americruise 03 and several best of's at world of wheels
and a couple of mags, street rodder and rod and custom.
thats the 758 hp small block chevy that i said i was going to put in my 06
but the thread got locked before i had a chance to explain.
jay
#13
Originally Posted by tkogt
an old engine builder once told me that,"forged cranks are for guys who cant sleep at night" and as far as i know the week point in the 3 valve motor are the powdered rods.
the rpm potential is usually limited by the cams and valve train.
id love to see someones dyno sheet with a stock tune with out the limiter set to 6250. that would be the best way to see where the power drops off.
jay
the rpm potential is usually limited by the cams and valve train.
id love to see someones dyno sheet with a stock tune with out the limiter set to 6250. that would be the best way to see where the power drops off.
jay
#14
im the guy he talked to in passing
Let me know, i still have my dyno sheets. Brenspeed also stated the rev limiter kicking in for partial reasons, but also after installing a CAI, you will continue to build power all the way to 7k. I dont quite trust it that far, but a friend has re-rodded and pistoned his shortblock and shifts at 7k rpm at the track (stock valvetrain at the time) without issues. He has since upgraded to the stage 2 P&P with new springs and retianers for his blown app. but 6 months of weekend passes (he estimated about 70 passes in this time) without any valve train issues is pretty good at that RPM for a stock valvetrain. will the rods hold 7k? haha im not willing to find out I shift my car at about 6300ish.
Let me know, i still have my dyno sheets. Brenspeed also stated the rev limiter kicking in for partial reasons, but also after installing a CAI, you will continue to build power all the way to 7k. I dont quite trust it that far, but a friend has re-rodded and pistoned his shortblock and shifts at 7k rpm at the track (stock valvetrain at the time) without issues. He has since upgraded to the stage 2 P&P with new springs and retianers for his blown app. but 6 months of weekend passes (he estimated about 70 passes in this time) without any valve train issues is pretty good at that RPM for a stock valvetrain. will the rods hold 7k? haha im not willing to find out I shift my car at about 6300ish.
#15
an old engine builder once told me that,"forged cranks are for guys who cant sleep at night" and as far as i know the week point in the 3 valve motor are the powdered rods.
the rpm potential is usually limited by the cams and valve train.
id love to see someones dyno sheet with a stock tune with out the limiter set to 6250. that would be the best way to see where the power drops off.
jay
the rpm potential is usually limited by the cams and valve train.
id love to see someones dyno sheet with a stock tune with out the limiter set to 6250. that would be the best way to see where the power drops off.
jay
Oops NM, you said stock tune!
#17
That isn't completely stock though... It is a default tune for C&L and 93 octane so I could bring the car in with the parts installed and get him to tweak it. Hence the reason I put NM in my last post.
It's bad info I tell you, sorry for the confusion
#18
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Using the DiabloSport I moved my redline to 6400. Stock, the car fell flat on its face when the needle hit redline, and it was a guessing game as to where redline/limiter kicked in.
Now, after moving it up to 6400, I shift right on the line and NEVER get any "assistance" by the computer. So I don't go over 6K, but I get power at 6K!
I also have 15K miles on the car like this and no rattles or issues (oil analysis every 5K).
Go Nuts!
Now, after moving it up to 6400, I shift right on the line and NEVER get any "assistance" by the computer. So I don't go over 6K, but I get power at 6K!
I also have 15K miles on the car like this and no rattles or issues (oil analysis every 5K).
Go Nuts!
#19
Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
Using the DiabloSport I moved my redline to 6400. Stock, the car fell flat on its face when the needle hit redline, and it was a guessing game as to where redline/limiter kicked in.
Now, after moving it up to 6400, I shift right on the line and NEVER get any "assistance" by the computer. So I don't go over 6K, but I get power at 6K!
I also have 15K miles on the car like this and no rattles or issues (oil analysis every 5K).
Go Nuts!
Now, after moving it up to 6400, I shift right on the line and NEVER get any "assistance" by the computer. So I don't go over 6K, but I get power at 6K!
I also have 15K miles on the car like this and no rattles or issues (oil analysis every 5K).
Go Nuts!
I never go near the 6500 I have it set for now. It works perfectly.
#20
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My Roushcharger ReProgram Raised the Rpm Cutoff to 6400. It's Awfull easy to hit it BTW!
KC
KC