I know several companies that make a 4" drive shaft but I'm concerned about clearance issues.

My car is mildly lowered - probably about an inch or so. My car's an automatic so I don't know if that makes a difference. I have heard that automatics tend to be more picky about driveshafts than manuals.

I know Dynotech makes a 3.5" drive shaft.

Shaftmasters used to make 3.5" drive shaft but it seems they stopped making it.

 

I know lots of guys running 4 inch driveshafts with auto's and thier car is lowered more than you. Don't fear the 4 inch shaft! If you go with a 4 inch I recommend the Coast or Powerhouse. JMO~

 

I have a SpyderShaft which is 3.5" up front and is tapered up to 4" about 8 or 9 inches from the front. My car is lowered about 1.5" and I have had no issues in more than two years of use. I have a Granatelli loop up front with no clearance issues but the BMR works well too from what I hear. My car is an 05 GT with automatic trans. I guess there is nothing wrong with choosing a 3.5" shaft but I would't go with any that have to use an adapter plate instead of one engineered to fit properly.

Good luck with your purchase.

 

I do not think BMR makes their DS anymore. Last time i went to their website they did not offer it anymore. It was the only Carbon Fiber DS that i have seen so it might have been to costly to make and not many people wanted it. I am planning on a Coast Driveline DS

 

check out brenspeed he carries one.

 

I was referring to their DS loop not causing conflict, sorry for the confusion.

 

Spydershaft here on lowered auto, Bmr loop and UCA. No problems.. actually great mod. Local shop charged $200 to install all three parts.

 

It's a pretty easy install unless you buy a shaft that requires you to change the pinion flange (Spydershaft) and torquing the pinion nut is a ball-buster unless you are on a lift.

 

Should I get a driveshaft with an adapter plate or without?

Why is an adapter plate even needed?

 

The S197 has a different type of connector some drive shaft manufacturers took the easy route and made an adapter instead of putting a proper connector on the drive shaft.

 

I've have the Steeda shaft and it's tappered from 4" down to 3". My car is lowered and I have no clearance issues with the MGW shifter ...

http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...riveshafts.php

 

If the shaft you select is properly engineered for your car it shouldn't need an adapter of any kind.

 

I am torn between the DynaTech for $730 or the Coast for $550-$580.

The Dynatech does not use an adapter. The Coast gives you the option.
The price difference is Crazy.... I have heard good about both ..Dynatech has been recommended to me by many. Just don't know if there is really that much of a difference between the two to justify $180???

Anyone see or use both??

 

Dynotech DS in our opinion the best on the market. We have never had a problem with their products and they are a direct bolt in. A 3.5" is going to be stronger and reduce rotating intertia more the the 4". PM me if you have more questions.

 

What's the exact weight of the dynotech AL.DS?

 

Its not about if the shaft is properly engineered. It's about if you want to have to change the pinion flange. If you replace the flange and don't get the preload set right you could burn up a pinion bearing like my friend did or develop a leak from the pinion seal. And believe me, loosing a pinion bearing at 70 mph sucks. I know that Ford says you get 3 crushes on a crush sleeve but you better make sure that you set the preload the same as it was before. If it's not done right you will be paying for a rear end tear down at minimum.

If you get a shaft with a new flange, take it to a qualified tech to install it. They will know how to set the preload.

I know people will argue with me on this one and say that you can just torque away on the pinion nut. If you don't believe me go ahead and do it and you may get lucky and never have a problem, or your pinion bearing may lock up after 15k miles.

I have the Coast driveshaft with adapter and I haven't had the first problem. I'm sure Dynotech makes a great driveshaft but they have a lot of ***** charging that much for it.

 

Not 100% sure but 20-25 lbs sounds right. I am working remotely so am unable to weigh one. I do know it is more than 50% lighter than the stock DS. That thing is so heavy.

 

Axle Exchange is hands down the best driveshaft out there. Steeda sells them as well.