dly

I started SCCA Autocrossing last year and run in the SM class (I'M SC'ed). This class is the almost anything goes class. I brought some 18 x10 rims from American Muscle and some used (70% tread left) Hoosier A6 295/30/18. Well the fronts hit on the strut and I needed a 1/8" shim and I only got 4 or 5 turns on the lug nuts. So I looked and found APR 3" studs for about $100 per axle and Moroso for about $30 a axle. The Moroso says not to use a wheel spacer so I used APR on the front and Moroso on the back. The APR were a breeze to put in no problems at all. The Moroso were a major Pain The Asre. They were not ground down on the back flange so the hit the ABS ring. Also they were way bigger than the old studs in the knurl. I actually damaged one of the ABS rings and need to replace it. The other side I did several grinds to get the stud pass the ABS ring so as to not damage another one. Also reamer out the hub holes a little and still was a very tight fit. So I guess you get what you pay for. Also glad I found a deal on the open lug nuts (100 for $49 gorilla brand) as I used several up to get the studs tight.

Glenn

any chance you took some pictures of the parts you used next to the old parts?

Scott2

As an alternative to front wheel studs you may want to consider a complete FRPP Hub Assembly. They come with 3" ARP studs. See this thread.

https://themustangsource.com/f730/fr...-studs-504762/

Here are some comparison pictures of OEM and ARP studs in the rear:

https://themustangsource.com/f730/ar...nstall-504930/

Hope this helps, let me know if you need the part numbers for the Hubs, Studs or FRPP Opened Nuts