Ok so I know people have done this before and I am stuck.... Here goes what I've done up to date

Engine:
-C&L Intake
-Kooks LT's Mid / MagnaPaks
-New Heads & Cams
-UDP's
-Custom Tuning

Suspension:
-Front & Rear Sways
-LCA's
-Panhard & Brace
-DSpec's / Steeda Ultralites
-A Arm Brace w/ torque Limiters
-Steeda Triax (Eventually want to replace w/ MGW)

I have sitting in my garage a Set of Saleen (aka. Stoptech) Front Brakes I haven't installed, but I was thinking 4.10's w/ a new Eaton Diff. or a Drive Shaft or getting something like the Steeda Rear brake kit??? I don't know I would like to enhance the power I have but I am lost on where to go... I am open to any suggestions!!! Thanks guys for your help.

 

I would love to do heads but my next mod is 4:10's. They are sitting in the garage and I ordered an installation kit today. Need to get some gear oil and Ford friction modifier and I will be ready in a week or two. So gears are my suggestion.

 

what is your budget and any goals?

 

Ok so I have a question for you? Are you sticking w/ the stock Diff or replacing it???

So my budget is it Depends; it depends on what the mod is... I know that sounds ridiculous but if I'm going w/ a new DS and gears I want to keep it around 1K including install but if it is something somewhat simple I would do either myself...
As for my Goals: Man I want a clean DD that I can take to shows but I also take it to the track once a wk.... So I hope this helps!!!

 

I am sticking with the stock differential. At our power levels it is plenty strong. If you want to you can do a rebuild on the stocker with better clutch packs.

 

Ok, b/c the Eaton's are expensive!!!!

 

So with these mods I'm guessing you've just about maxed out the naturally aspirated options for power. What kind of RWHP and TQ are you putting down with this setup if you don't mind me asking?

 

Agree on the 4.10s and how much power are you making.

 

Aluminum Driveshaft, 4.10s, maybe a stroker kit if you want to stay naturally aspirated. With a stroker I'm sure you'll be over 400. I think you are probably shy of 400 right now with all that...

 

So Rwhp is around 375 - 380 / Rwtq is around 340.... Kinda low for the Torque but hopefully changing out the Gears will help alleviate the lower Tq #'s... (So I know it doesn't change the #'s so don't think I am saying I am getting more power)

So everyone seems to think 4.10's is the Next best option... And Do you guys agree that the Diff is not necessary to change w/ this kinda pwr???

 

Dude, put the brakes on, what are you waiting for? They look great...

 

Are you running cats or O/R pipe? My understanding is O/R pipe will lose some low end torque but gain top end HP. Some hi flow cats might be a good compramise (sp). After my longtube install the car felt like it pulled longer but not as hard down low. Waiting for the dyno to compare the graphs. This did seem to make the 4.10s and race tune more managable though. I'm still running the stock cover and believe even a lot of boosted guys are also.

 

So Josh, are those differently wheels in your avtar??? Did you just replace your front brakes or did you do your rear to????

What do you mean by Stock Covers??? And I have Hi Flow Cats... I cant wait to do some 4.10's!!!

 

I was wondering about the 'stock covers' comment too...

My 20" wheels are the ASA JH8 that were on clearance from TireRack a few years back, <$150 a piece (bought them before the car!)

I did the cheapo Saleen/StopTech kit (same as TacoBill's) when it was on Ebay for $900, is now much more. Considered the Steeda 13" rear kit ($500), but found out you have to remove the axles to do install (good opportunity if you're already doing gears!!). Went with the Roush TrakPak rear slotted disc set, about $200 through Stage3 or through Roush themselves.

 

By stock cover I think he means the differential cover. You were talking about the differential, though I know you meant the Eaton.

I'd like to get a hold of the new cover on the 2011 GT 500 SVT PP cars.

 

Yes the stock diff cover, now that I've read the thread again I realize you were talking entire diff. Don't think thats needed until 500+, and the stock short block will probably fail first.

 

Coastal Driveshaft, 4.30s, and decent rubber. i.e. Mickey Thompson DR and/or Dunlop Star Specs. Great tires improve the car so much.

 

Josh do you have any pics of the Rear Brake setup you have... And crap I was thinking about the Steeda Rear kit too; I had no idea you had to take the Axle off thats a little ridiculous if you ask me...

What does that Diff cover look like???

Hahaha, yeah sorry I am slow on the uptake... Thanks for the advice b/c I don't want to spend money where I don't need to.

Man you think 4.30's; thats what the guys at my shop keep trying to get me to put in but in but I'm afraid the DD quality will diminish and as for the DR's, the next set of rears are going to be DR's... But I just bought tires a little bit ago (Nitto Invo's; pretty good I might add) so thats a little ways off...

 

Yeah, I was all set to get the Steeda kit, then emailed them for install instructions, was shocked. Can't remember the exact reason, but they said you have to open the diff, slide out the axles to do so. Think I saw a story in 5.0 MM&FF about it at one point, too.

Don't have any good pics of the Roush rotors, but they're essentially identical to the stock but with slots. The slot pattern matches the Saleen/StopTech fronts I have.

You can sorta see them here:



Or imagine these with slots:

 

Wow the rear ones are so much smaller looking than I expected!!!! Btw Nice Pic.