What...? Im running SLOW?
8/27/05, 01:56 AM
#1
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...because of my mods :bang:
Well...read my mods, but I believe having 20" Foose rims and an upgraded speaker/sub system really cuts down on my times. heck, I should be running much faster than I actually am.
Even though its an automatic, I feel as if my car is doing about high 5's for my 0-60 times. Is this what I SHOULD be running? :scratch:
Well...read my mods, but I believe having 20" Foose rims and an upgraded speaker/sub system really cuts down on my times. heck, I should be running much faster than I actually am.
Even though its an automatic, I feel as if my car is doing about high 5's for my 0-60 times. Is this what I SHOULD be running? :scratch:
8/27/05, 09:33 AM
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Yeah, the added unsprung weight, rotational inertia, and the fact that running 20 inchers effectively raises your gearing (numerically lowers) is gonna mess you up.
Get 4.10 rear gears to cancel out the wheels, a CAI/tune and you won't have a thing to complain about.
Get 4.10 rear gears to cancel out the wheels, a CAI/tune and you won't have a thing to complain about.
8/27/05, 11:20 AM
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Originally posted by GhostGT@August 27, 2005, 1:59 AM
...because of my mods :bang:
Well...read my mods, but I believe having 20" Foose rims and an upgraded speaker/sub system really cuts down on my times. heck, I should be running much faster than I actually am.
Even though its an automatic, I feel as if my car is doing about high 5's for my 0-60 times. Is this what I SHOULD be running? :scratch:
...because of my mods :bang:
Well...read my mods, but I believe having 20" Foose rims and an upgraded speaker/sub system really cuts down on my times. heck, I should be running much faster than I actually am.
Even though its an automatic, I feel as if my car is doing about high 5's for my 0-60 times. Is this what I SHOULD be running? :scratch:
okay lets clairify.... what do you mean you "feel as if your car is doing high 5's 0-60" are you a human gtech, do you have any evidence that your car is not doing 0-60 in 4 sec, can we see some #'s from 1/4 mile or g tech to understand this better
8/27/05, 12:57 PM
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Originally posted by TURBO 05+August 27, 2005, 3:49 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TURBO 05 @ August 27, 2005, 3:49 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>its usually the driver dont blame the car
[/b]
[/b]
Originally posted by AnotherMustangMan@August 27, 2005, 8:13 AM
Yea, he probably lets off the gas randomly when accelerating.
(It's an automatic.)
Yea, he probably lets off the gas randomly when accelerating.
(It's an automatic.)
:scratch: Are you guys joking? I don't understand how you can think that I'm doing something wrong here. With an automatic GT, all I do is floor it...
And why the heck would I let off the gas?
Originally posted by TURBO 05@August 27, 2005, 11:23 AM
okay lets clairify.... what do you mean you "feel as if your car is doing high 5's 0-60" are you a human gtech, do you have any evidence that your car is not doing 0-60 in 4 sec, can we see some #'s from 1/4 mile or g tech to understand this better
okay lets clairify.... what do you mean you "feel as if your car is doing high 5's 0-60" are you a human gtech, do you have any evidence that your car is not doing 0-60 in 4 sec, can we see some #'s from 1/4 mile or g tech to understand this better
Besides, I used my track sprint timer once, and if I remember correctly, it gave 5.8 for my 0-60 run. Gtech? Ill take a regular timer ANY day over that, it gave a 0-60 reading of 4.9 on my father's cadillac.... :nono:
________________________________________________
Originally posted by pittperson@August 27, 2005, 8:28 AM
like you said, the 20 inchers and subs probably don't help much. Add to that the rubber for those 20 inch wheels and you're packin a lot of extra weight.
like you said, the 20 inchers and subs probably don't help much. Add to that the rubber for those 20 inch wheels and you're packin a lot of extra weight.
Originally posted by AnotherMustangMan@August 27, 2005, 9:36 AM
Yeah, the added unsprung weight, rotational inertia, and the fact that running 20 inchers effectively raises your gearing (numerically lowers) is gonna mess you up.
Get 4.10 rear gears to cancel out the wheels, a CAI/tune and you won't have a thing to complain about.
Yeah, the added unsprung weight, rotational inertia, and the fact that running 20 inchers effectively raises your gearing (numerically lowers) is gonna mess you up.
Get 4.10 rear gears to cancel out the wheels, a CAI/tune and you won't have a thing to complain about.
<!--QuoteBegin-65gtfastback@August 27, 2005, 10:00 AM
What are your 60 foot times? That is where you will find most of your answer.
Paul
[/quote]
Thanks for actually providing some answers. I will try to get my 60 foot time in as soon as i can.
8/27/05, 03:07 PM
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Originally posted by AnotherMustangMan@August 27, 2005, 2:26 PM
Haha, yes I was joking/poking fun at turbo 05.
Haha, yes I was joking/poking fun at turbo 05.
8/27/05, 04:46 PM
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Looks like that body kit is only 110 lb, so that should affect your time by a tenth in the quarter. That unsprung weight is a killer. That will cost you a tenth for every ten lbs. No idea what those 20's weigh, but they can't be light. So if they are ~7 lbs heavier per wheel than the stock ones, that is 7 lbs x 4 wheels = 28 lbs unsprung. About a .28 second drop in the quarter mile ET - coupled with the body kit weight and you are off by about .4 seconds. And then there is the whole gearing thing previously mentioned. So, 5.8 0-60 sounds about right considering stock is low 5's.
I am assuming you are turning off T/C and power breaking ?
I am assuming you are turning off T/C and power breaking ?
8/27/05, 05:20 PM
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Originally posted by HeHateMe@August 27, 2005, 4:49 PM
Looks like that body kit is only 110 lb, so that should affect your time by a tenth in the quarter. That unsprung weight is a killer. That will cost you a tenth for every ten lbs. No idea what those 20's weigh, but they can't be light. So if they are ~7 lbs heavier per wheel than the stock ones, that is 7 lbs x 4 wheels = 28 lbs unsprung. About a .28 second drop in the quarter mile ET - coupled with the body kit weight and you are off by about .4 seconds. And then there is the whole gearing thing previously mentioned. So, 5.8 0-60 sounds about right considering stock is low 5's.
I am assuming you are turning off T/C and power breaking ?
Looks like that body kit is only 110 lb, so that should affect your time by a tenth in the quarter. That unsprung weight is a killer. That will cost you a tenth for every ten lbs. No idea what those 20's weigh, but they can't be light. So if they are ~7 lbs heavier per wheel than the stock ones, that is 7 lbs x 4 wheels = 28 lbs unsprung. About a .28 second drop in the quarter mile ET - coupled with the body kit weight and you are off by about .4 seconds. And then there is the whole gearing thing previously mentioned. So, 5.8 0-60 sounds about right considering stock is low 5's.
I am assuming you are turning off T/C and power breaking ?
8/27/05, 05:38 PM
#13
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The 20's have a lot of rotational mass, and will definitely slow you down. The added weight of the all the stereo/subs/amp/boxes/ and ground effects will also slow you down. I would say thay you could very well be running 5.8s from 0-60.
You have a lot invested in "look good" mods, but I don't see any performance mods listed. From driving an auto and manual back to back, the auto seems to have a lot of throttle lag in the low rpm's, and 1st gear seems a little tall, and the stock auto shifts are pretty soft from where they need to be for best times.
Getting a good tune and a CAI will help tremendously! I just put a JLT CAI and an SCT Xcal tune on Jewl's 05 auto last night, and performance is night and day. I drove around barking tires all night, until she made me stop. Just testing the old girl out. The care that is. I recommend Doug and BamaChips for a tuner and tune, great guy, best customer service! And Jay at JLT for a CAI, since you can get one painted Sonic Blue that will match the car, and performance and cost is excellent. C&L makes a nice intake as well, if you want to go the metal route.
As far as the Gtec, not that I doubt you had a bad experience. But my Gtec Pro RR is lpretty accurate. I went through the optional fine calibration procedures with mine, and have did over half a dozen runs with it at the track, and it has been very accurate with the time slips in all aspects (60', 330', 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile). It was within a tenth of a second every time, but tended to side on the "optomistic" side. For example it would say 13.6, and the time slip would be 13.7. Still not bad, and it was pretty consistent, almost always .09 seconds fast. Gtecs are very senstive to temperature changes and shocks, so even a small drop could mess it up pretty good. The new Gtecs take temperature into account and compensate, I don't believe the old ones did.
Anyway, long story short, get a tune and CAI, and life will be funner. Mine does 4.9 with the JLT and SCT tune.
You have a lot invested in "look good" mods, but I don't see any performance mods listed. From driving an auto and manual back to back, the auto seems to have a lot of throttle lag in the low rpm's, and 1st gear seems a little tall, and the stock auto shifts are pretty soft from where they need to be for best times.
Getting a good tune and a CAI will help tremendously! I just put a JLT CAI and an SCT Xcal tune on Jewl's 05 auto last night, and performance is night and day. I drove around barking tires all night, until she made me stop. Just testing the old girl out.
The care that is. I recommend Doug and BamaChips for a tuner and tune, great guy, best customer service! And Jay at JLT for a CAI, since you can get one painted Sonic Blue that will match the car, and performance and cost is excellent. C&L makes a nice intake as well, if you want to go the metal route.As far as the Gtec, not that I doubt you had a bad experience. But my Gtec Pro RR is lpretty accurate. I went through the optional fine calibration procedures with mine, and have did over half a dozen runs with it at the track, and it has been very accurate with the time slips in all aspects (60', 330', 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile). It was within a tenth of a second every time, but tended to side on the "optomistic" side. For example it would say 13.6, and the time slip would be 13.7. Still not bad, and it was pretty consistent, almost always .09 seconds fast. Gtecs are very senstive to temperature changes and shocks, so even a small drop could mess it up pretty good. The new Gtecs take temperature into account and compensate, I don't believe the old ones did.
Anyway, long story short, get a tune and CAI, and life will be funner. Mine does 4.9 with the JLT and SCT tune.
8/27/05, 10:51 PM
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GhostGT,
Power Braking to achieve optimal launch in an AOD is tricky. Especially in the SN-197. Good luck finding the G-spot for RPM. It took me many tries in the 03 GT and have yet to find it in the 05 Coupe.
Hold the brake with your left foot and gas with your right, bring RPMs up to about 1,500-1,800 RPM. I would not personally suggest going over 2,000RPM. When the Christmas Tree goes green, punch the accelerator. However, watch the amount of time you hold for load. Unless you install an upgraded torque converter for the AOD, your fluid temp can rise dramatically and could cook it.
Main enemy is temperature. The fluid temp increases, as a rule of thumb, 5 degrees/second^2 at a standstill with throttle. temp = temp(0) + 1/2 (5) (time)^2
So fluid temp can raise 62.5 degrees in 5 seconds of powerbraking. With the sealed AOD on the 05, checking and adding fluid can't be done unless you have a specialized pressure fill tool for the auto tranny.
A tune to kill off the DBW hesitation is really needed with the AOD, not to mention shift point changes to achieve WOT shifts to hold the TQ band better.
AND...
not only is your body kit going to add weight, it will cost you due to drag coefficient as well. The body it is going to add drag to the aerodynamics of the vehicle and result in a lower net 1/4 time. 0-60 won't really show the drag, but 1/8 and 1/4 will.
Good Luck
Jennifer
Power Braking to achieve optimal launch in an AOD is tricky. Especially in the SN-197. Good luck finding the G-spot for RPM. It took me many tries in the 03 GT and have yet to find it in the 05 Coupe.
Hold the brake with your left foot and gas with your right, bring RPMs up to about 1,500-1,800 RPM. I would not personally suggest going over 2,000RPM. When the Christmas Tree goes green, punch the accelerator. However, watch the amount of time you hold for load. Unless you install an upgraded torque converter for the AOD, your fluid temp can rise dramatically and could cook it.
Main enemy is temperature. The fluid temp increases, as a rule of thumb, 5 degrees/second^2 at a standstill with throttle. temp = temp(0) + 1/2 (5) (time)^2
So fluid temp can raise 62.5 degrees in 5 seconds of powerbraking. With the sealed AOD on the 05, checking and adding fluid can't be done unless you have a specialized pressure fill tool for the auto tranny.
A tune to kill off the DBW hesitation is really needed with the AOD, not to mention shift point changes to achieve WOT shifts to hold the TQ band better.
AND...
not only is your body kit going to add weight, it will cost you due to drag coefficient as well. The body it is going to add drag to the aerodynamics of the vehicle and result in a lower net 1/4 time. 0-60 won't really show the drag, but 1/8 and 1/4 will. Good Luck
Jennifer
8/28/05, 03:47 AM
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WOw theres TONS of useful info here. Thanks guys! Ill read all of it and hopefully understand it better tomorrow..just got back from a party..hehe
once again, THANK YOU!
once again, THANK YOU!
8/28/05, 08:55 AM
#17
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I believe Lidio (alternative auto) is running 20 inch wheels... Here's his run from Friday Night (test and tune with staggered starts)
Lidio's GT
I have to agree the automatics beg for a good tune!
Lidio's GT
I have to agree the automatics beg for a good tune!
8/28/05, 09:56 AM
#18
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I'm thinking about putting 18" deep dish fr500 on my ride when they come in. The wheel alone weighs 31 pounds. You should weigh your 20's with the tires and without to see how much extra weight you have there. Plus I would like to know if its going to hurt my times at the strip 
8/28/05, 11:49 AM
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Originally posted by Fastback65@August 28, 2005, 8:59 AM
I'm thinking about putting 18" deep dish fr500 on my ride when they come in. The wheel alone weighs 31 pounds. You should weigh your 20's with the tires and without to see how much extra weight you have there. Plus I would like to know if its going to hurt my times at the strip
I'm thinking about putting 18" deep dish fr500 on my ride when they come in. The wheel alone weighs 31 pounds. You should weigh your 20's with the tires and without to see how much extra weight you have there. Plus I would like to know if its going to hurt my times at the strip
Paul
8/29/05, 04:11 PM
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I have 20's and look at my times and I have 3 basic mods to my car (only 2 that affect performance). Plus I have a 285mm tread width; 11.2" to drag down the qtr mile. So I dont think that 20's kill you that much.