When you get them installed let me know what you think of them, OK? Are you installing the Steeda or the Fayes 2?

 

I'm tryin, but the girlfriend's cooking doesn't help!

I didn't see a K-member from Steeda on their site, looks like BMR may be the way to go and they say it's 20 lbs lighter than stock (24lbs vs 44lbs stock). Is 30 - 35 lbs worth it? Am I really going to feel a difference? I'm not sure...

hehe...my philosophy exactly. I do the same thing with my intake and tune every time I get an inspection. Good to know it's easily reversible (so long as I use anti-seize compound). Only problem is where to store the factory exhaust in my apartment

At this point I'm not in for monster horsepower. Looking for about 400HP. How much does all that stuff weigh?

I guess the CMCV plates aren't all that necessary then. Travelers had them installed on his car and said something to the effect of "You know when your car hits about 3500RPM and you get that sudden rush of power? That's the plates opening. With the delete plates, it's like that all the time". Not exact words, but the general idea. Sometimes I like how docile the car is at low RPM though. It's easier to drive in traffic, which I have to contend with all the time.

 

I've had one on my 2001 Camaro replacing the big PHB I had for over a year now, which is why--now that I'm going to change competition classes with my Mustang, I'm putting one on it. I know what it does, it's not new to me.

I'm using a Fays2 on the Mustang personally.

 

I only have this to say. Most K-members are designed for drag racing use... And much is made by some companies about how tough they are becaue they tolerate some fast car that can pull the wheels and not break. But landing from a wheelstand puts loads through the springs and struts and into the towers not the k-member so much. But cornering, lateral loads, bumps, and all that sort of thing puts a lot of lateral load into the k-member itself.

Yes, you can do lighter k's.. but is it a smart move for a street car. Most folks don't want weaker parts than stock, which is why they upgrade. Here the part you are looking at is all about weight, not about strength. If it was a drag only car, I'd say go for it. But seems it is not a drag car.

 

- not sure if it's worth it. I did notice alittle bit of a difference with the Steeda Rad support, but I also picked it up for less then 50% of retail so it was a no brainer for me!

- storing the OEM pipe might be a problem. It's all one piece and weighs almost twice as much as the Prochamber. I have mine standing up, leaning against the wall, down by my work bench in the basement.


-I'm guessing I added around 100lbs when I put on the blower. I think the blower itself (without the lower intake) was around 50-60lbs. ..but then I gained almost 100hp, at the wheels, over the C&L Street CAI & Tillman tune. ..though if I went the IC root I would probably be putting down another 60-70 hp and like torque at the wheels.. while feeling alot safer doing it. I relocated the IAT sensor so I can see post blower numbers.. and they can get scary while under boost.

 

Gears, UDP's, Delete Plates will give you a nice boost!

 

I agree with Bill! 4.10s WOKE my car up, and I've only noticed about a 1-2mpg decrease! Nothing to make me regret it AT ALL. At 60mph I'm running at a touch over 2,500RPM. I toy'd with the idea of 3.73, but I heard alot of guys who did that regret not going to 4.10s off the bat. They'll run you about $250 for the gears (and install kit/fluids), and shouldn't be more than $350 for a shop to install.

I'd also suggest going with headers! (next on my list). You should see gains of 20-30 at the wheels. You can get the OBX ones for around $500, and even with a tune you'd still be under $1,000. There's some good reviews of these headers on this site, and if you're not concerned with having the "big name" ones (ARH, Kooks, etc), these would be a good bang for the buck!

 

So...many...choices...

 

Don't forget the nitrous option. That's pretty easy, failry economical for a daily driver, and good for a "once in while" blast on demand...

Mike E

 

Do exhaust first
Don't overwhelm yourself with every option. Start with your choice headers and an off-road pipe.
You can get shorty's which will gain, but you have the option of still switching to your stock H pipe for inspections.

 

Did anyone mention a aluminum 1 piece driveshaft?

 

So if I get LT's I can't switch back to the factory H pipe? Is there any advantage to LT's over shorty's?


Check the sig, already got it. Thanks

 

Lt's, and just cut x or h pipe to fit; dont break the bank either. 500$ uncoated will work just fine.

What gears are you running?

K and As are expensive for what you get, Steeda rad support 25ish lbs of the very front of car, battery relocation in trunk (DEKA 8lb battery for the track)... Thats 50+lbs there, improved weight dist. and something you can do in the driveway all for under 300$

Pulleys and underdrive belt worth about .2 at the track; and cheap/easy install.


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