Mike M

You are right in MPH being horsepower. But a car with deeper gears will make lower chassis dyno #'s than a car with 3:55 gears. And comparing MPH from a car at a different track, different weather, elevation, etc. is not valid.

Case in point: The car we prototyped our system on went somewhere in the 13:50's stock. With the headers, exhaust, tune, trap removed, aluminum flywheel, control arms, the car went 13:00 @ 108 (This is all from memory-I asked the owner to email me with his exact ET and MPH so don't use this as gospel yet-as soon as I know I will post what he emails me-if I remember right, this was also with a 2.00 60 foot, which leaves a lot to be desired.)

Cars will always chassis dyno differently at different dynos, elevations, etc. We have dynod the same car on 3 dynos in Cleveland, and gotten +- 5 RWHP. Same day, weather, car, the only thing we changed were the dynos. I can't explain why there is a difference, but all three are supposed to be calibrated (two were dynojets and one Mustang Dyno-the Mustang Dyno was set up to supposedly measure exactly the same as a dyno jet).

Also, we have seen baselines vary +-5 RWHP from one production car to another. Everyone wants to think that all new cars will make +-1RWHP of each other. This is not practical given factory tolerances on all of the components, break in miles, method of break in, etc.

The bottom line is this-the 3" exhaust is more than sufficient for a car with just bolt ons and will work great with a power adder. A 2 1/2" system can also work well, but if planning to do a lot more than bolt ons, the 3" system would always have enough flow potential for whatever you are going to do.

gnn60gt500-yes, our headers will work with your 2 1/2" cat back. If you have a company project vehicle, let us know-we would be glad to supply them to you. You are right-there is plenty of room for all of us in the exhaust side of the business, and we all do get along well. I also see Don McGee at shows, like Goodguys Columbus, and he is a really nice guy-tell him I said hello. If you and I ever meet at a show, we will definately have a few pops!

Thanks
Al
Stainless Works

 

Cool- Ill add you guys on to the list- We dont have any "company" project vehicles- but we do have guys here who build cars- I happen to be the guy who builds Mustangs-

I will definitely keep this in mind though-

Hey Al-

Are you familiar with the guys at X-M-P?
www.x-m-p.com

They are building the cars for Boyd Cottington and some cars for Ford as well- Eric is the owner and the last time I was over there his guys were complaining about nobody making a header that fits-

We have them locked in on exhaust, however you might want to give them a call about headers as their guys seemed to be unhappy, and you have a header that works with our exhaust system you can tell Eric you got their name from Brent over at Magnaflow-

Also, DuPont is going to have a 69 Mach 1 at SEMA- they are using our exhaust system, and were looking for headers to use- do you guys build headers for anything like that- he has a mild 351-

(its been a month since they asked me, but if you do build something- I will PM you with the contact info-)

Ill let Don know you said hello- and well definitely have to shoot the s**t if we ever end up at the same show-


BTW- for the gentleman installing the supercharger

Brent Bass-
1-800-990-0905 - just ask for me-


Also to back up what Al said- yes a car with lower gears will not dyno as high-

Realistically, dynos are fun, excellent for tuning- but as far as comparing dyno numbers from one dyno to the next- it just can't be done-

There are way too many variables and the only time a dyno comparison should really be used is when in a controlled environment- Basically we could generate 30rwhp gains with a catback if we manipulated the dyno correctly by changing the right variables- but that would be false advertising as it would be hard to duplicate- by the consumer- so when we advertise we use gains that we believe the end consumer will have an easy time seeing-

Same thing with 1/4 miles times as there are definitely fast tracks and slow tracks- depending on surfaces (traction) elevation and so on-

There is no right or wrong exhaust- just a right or wrong exhaust for you- its up to us to try and convince you if we are right for you-

Stainless Works has its theory, we have ours- nobody is really right or wrong- as both theories work- the real question is which one is going to work better for you-

The bottom line- if every Mustang owner in the country said I want to buy exhaust A- there is not one exhaust company out there that could supply them-

 

Daniel, that's the only thing I wish I had done with mine, was get it coated. It would have made a big difference...I think. Too late now! Your setup looks nice. I know you'll like the way it sounds!

 

Thanks Dave! Picked her up last night and I love the way it sounds. Not as loud as the Bassani axle-backs but has plenty of growl at cruise. Nice rumble at idle. Very authoritative at WOT. Very 60's sound, IMO. And my 1900rpm drone is gone! Sweet!!

Update on the fit: I went over there yesterday with the stock mufflers and the Bassani's...the rod supports on the Stainless mufflers were in the right place. The hanger brackets were on backwards! Bob apologized profusely and said he should've known better. Lack of sleep, other issues, etc., etc. She still needs adjustments as there are a couple clearance issues, left muffler is sitting crooked, tips crooked, etc. but time ran out yesterday.

I'm a little concerned with the left header; it's very very close to the control arm bracket on the chassis: 1/8" or so from the bolt holding the shield on it.
Dave, how's the clearance on yours?

 

I've heard HD Engine Mounts will fix this. Some LT headers are so close that people were complaining of rattling coming from the passenger side after install. The headers were hitting the chassis

 

My clearance concern is the driver's side...

 

What I didn't know it was the left side form inside the car. What if you were looking at it from the front? The correct terminology would be road side or driver side vs passenger side/curb side.

I'm kidding I missed the left side part of your post. BUt the HD mounts may still correct that porblem but I don't have any personal experience with it.


Disclaimer:
I only know iformation like this because the Military make you use it.

 

I have no clearance issue at all, then again, I have the Steeda motor mounts. I have heard that these headers should be fine w/o changing the motor mounts. I would either run it by Al at Stainless Works or drivie it and see if you hear anything. If you do, it'll most likely be when you stomp on it. Do you race the car at all? If so, it probably wouldn't hurt to change out the mounts anyways. I know that other headers on the market require changing out the mounts -a must. I guess the question is, besides roadside, passenger side, curb side, driver's side, is that particular header on the side that the motors rocks towards or away? Will that 1/8" gap increase or decrease while revving?

 

You all are killing me. DO I NEED 3in sytem if I am going to supercharge or is a 2.5 fine?

 

I think that everyone is agreed that 3" exhaust will be worth while in an engine with a power adder

 

I haven't seen anything saying that 3" is too big or will hurt you on the 05's specifically. The old school mentality doesn't really come into play with the 05's. A buddy of mine that builds race cars and has a typical automotive and/or performance shop is in a totally new learning with the 05's. He's been at it for 20+ years. I've shown him things that I've learned and he's learned quite a bit from other performance shops and fellow racer's. Anywho, I think that if you intend on going to a power adder, the 3" will only help you more. If not, it won't hurt. Whether you NEED a 3"...all I can say is talk to the companies and base your decision on their sales pitches and FACTS. All I can give you is my dyno chart and my opinion or experience with this product. I'm pretty open to options, even if I've already spent money on a another brand. Michael Freedman, an avid racer and performance shop has the same exhaust-Stainless Works. I'm sure he's been given every other manuf. product to try.

 

Which way does the engine torque when accelerating? Passenger side up, driver's side down?
And wouldn't it torque the other way a little on deceleration?

 

I'm not sure. My car is at the dealership for the tranny TSB.

When do you get your car back?

 

Open the hood and rev the engine

 

I was thinking the same thing, but his car may still be in the shop.

 

I have it now

 

Off Topic

How effective and useful is your Steeda Bumpsteer kit?

 

Ok, it's left side up, right side down (opposite of the crankshaft rotation)

I can't tell if the left header is going to touch or not. Will have to get someone else to rev it while I watch...

 

After I lowered it, I only noticed a very small amount of bumpsteer under aggressive driving before the kit. Now there's none. Visually, the steering rack is back in line with the tie rod ends again. I think they only used about 25-35% of the adjustment capability.

 

I can get the Steed Springs, Bumpsteer Kit and strut tower brace for $500 just wondering if they are all worth it.

Thanks
James