odiaz

OK, I just did my MB pulleys and here are all the problems I ran into.



Before you start, make sure you have the following tools, rent them if you have to. My local Auto zone has a loan a tool program and they lent me most of what I needed except for the power tools.



Quick inventory first. The Motoblue kit comes with an idler, a bolt for the idler, the water pump pulley and the Crankshaft pulley. During the install you will reuse the 4 original 10 mm bolts form the water pump pulley and the 18 mm crankshaft pulley bolt.



Tools:

1) compressor

2) 5" or smaller impact wrench gun (an impact ratchet does not have enough power for the crankshaft bolt)

3) 10 MM socket and 18 MM impact socket

4) Harmonic balancer puller

5) harmonic balancer install kit.

6) 1/2" ratchet



I could not find any instructions for the MotoBlue Pulleys but I was able to referrence some Steeda instructions. Though the pulleys might be different, the procedure should be the same (or so I figure). Here are the steps for the removal/installation:



1) The steeda instructions say to disconnect the battery but I don't see the need for it, I'm not going to be touching anything electrical.



2) remove your air cleaner tubes. This will give you more clearance.



3) loosen ALL of the bolts before removing the belt. I made the mistake of removing the belt first and then all of the pulleys turned freely. The 4 bolts on the water pump are 10mm. The bolt on the crank shaft is 18 MM. Others have said you can remove it with an impact ratchet but I wasn't able to. I tried a very long Torque wrench and it had over 120 Ft-lbs on it. It did not work. I wound up having to go to Sears and buy their smallest impact gun. It only measured 5" and it was just small enough to fit.



4) make sure the torque gun is set to counterclockwise. This new gun I was using had a little push button to control the direction and the fit was so tight that the button kept getting pushed in and the bolt kept getting tightened instead of loosened. Also, make sure your air compressor is set at the maximum rating for the gun (mine was 90lbs but I set the compressor to 100) and that it stays on. My compressor blew a Circuit breaker and the tank just kept emptying. I didn't realize I did not have enough air for the gun until the tank was almost empty.



5) Get a paper and pencil and draw out all of the pulleys and how the belt goes around them. Believe me you will need this. I did not do it and had a really tough time trying to figure out how to put the #$$%%% belt back on. After you complete your picture, remove the belt. To remove the belt, use a 1/2 ratchet and insert it into the square hole on the idler pulley with the long arm and push down on it. After removing the belt, remove the pulley on the water pump. Don't put the new one on yet, this way you'll have more room to work. Screw the waterpump bolts back into the water pump so you won't loose the bolts.



6) Remove the old idler pulley and bolt. You wont' need the old bolt, you'll be using the new one. Install the new idler pulley. It works great, much less friction then the stock pulley. The pulley goes on with the C clip pointing towards you. If you put it on the other way, the pulley binds up against the engine. Once you have the pulley installed, tighten it with the bolt they provide you. The washer on the stock bolt is much too large and will restrict the pulley. When you're all done tightening the idler pulley, it should turn freely.



7) remove the crank pulley. Make sure you use the right tool. The first time, Autozone gave me a pulley puller and it was not big enough. You need a harmonic balancer removal tool. There are 2 types. The first is is a flat piece of metal with three long slots. There are long bolts that fit into these slots and screw into the crank shaft pulley. Then there is a very long bolt that screws in the middle. The other type has three claws that fit inside the crank pulley. There is a pin that goes inside the cran shaft and then a long screw that screws through the claw clam and pulls the pulley out. The Motoblue crank shaft pulley takes the first type but the one in the car takes the second. It is very hard to use it the claws keep slipping. I worked on this for several hours.



8) boil the new crankshaft pulley for about 10 minutes, not much longer. The idea here is that the heat will make the pulley expand and thus make it easier to install. While it is boiling, put some grease on the crank shaft to help the pulley go on. Not too much, keep it clean. Using ultra black gasket sealer, put a dab in the notch key area of the underdrive pulley so when you install it no oil can get out.





9) install the crank shaft pulley lining up the key notches. You'll need a good set of gloves so you don't burn your hands. Use a harmonic Balancer install tool to "press" the new pulley onto the crank shaft nice and even.



10) Use the original 18 MM bolt and tighten. Steeda recommends the torque turn method. They claim it is more accurate. The torque turn method measures how much the bolt is stretched which is really what is desired. Friction from the bolt head and washer is not a factor which leads to inaccurate torque of a fastener.




Torque to 67lb-ft. this step seats the balancer

Loosen half turn. this step relieves all stress on the bolt

Torque to 37lb-ft , this step pre-torques the bolt before bolt to washer friction becomes an issue

Tighten an addition 90 degrees, the fourth step stretches the bolt to the proper tension



11) install the waterpump pulley using the original bolts. Finally, install your belt using the diagram you drew. Make sure the belt sits properly on all of the piulleys. Start the engine and watch the belt to make sure it is properly aligned. reinstall your intake tubes. Enjoy the extra HP.

Clem

Very nice write-up, Octavio. Even I can understand them.

davids2toys

Ageed...nice write up. How does this mod feel, do you notice any big gains? Any down points?

odiaz

At the lower RPM range ther is a bit of a difference but not enough to make all the time I spent working on it worth it. The claws on the crank shaft pulley puller kept slipping. It ook me over 3 hrs just to get the crankshaft pulley off. In retrospect, I would have paid someone to do this job, but maybe if I had started with the right set of tools to begin with, the job would have gone much smoother and I would think differently.

I've only had the car for less then a week and I havent beat on it too hard yet. I made a lot of mods on it all at once so I'm not sure how much power each of them added. In less then a week, I installed the C&L, tried 3 different Predator tunes and added the UD pulleys. Over all, the car moooves. I'm very happy with it.

traffic142

Please forgive me, but how do aftermarket pulleys help increase HP? :scratch:

Herknav

Aftermarket pullies reduce the amount of parasitic drag from accessories freeing up more hp to actually be used by the wheels... darn.. I sound like an advertisement...

HOTLAP

Nice write up am confused by one thing though.....I installed my Steeda ud pullies several months back and I can't remember getting a replacement idler pully with the Steeda kit....IIRC - seems mine only came with the water pump and crank replacement pullies????

odiaz

The Steeda UD pulleys do not come with the Idler pulley, Only MotoBlue Does.

One Note, I installed a Motoblue UD pulley set on another car and there was a bolt that came out of the Water pump and it interfered with the pulley. I had to grind down the tip of the bolt using a cutoff wheel on a Dremmel tool.

I wrote up a set of instructions with pictures.UnderDrive Pulley Install

Import-Slaya

Great write-up! That last pick of the hidden bolt could be a real headache saver. Do you really need to use the harmonic balancer install tool, though? I thought you could just crank it on with the bolt as long as you followed the instructions exactly?

odiaz

yes, you can install the crankshaft pulley just using a slightly longer Bolt and following the torque instructions from Steeda, however, Autozone lent me the tool for free and it made the job soooo much easier. If you can get the tool for free do it, otherwise, just use a longer bolt like steeda recommends.

jayguy

Nice write-up. I've got the Steeda set on, and the only other thing I would recommend is removing the radiator fan. You can set the coolant tank aside without having to empty it, and the fan comes out pretty easily. It also gives you tons of room in front of the crank pulley for even a full-sized impact gun you you need it. I've attached a picture of the front of my engine with the new pullies and no fan. You can see there's plenty of room. Just don't forget to re-connect the fan power plug. (first hand experience - LOL)

odiaz

That certainly makes the job easier. I thought about it for quite a long time but I was afraid of having to drain all the fluids. That is a good tip.

Having the right tool and knowing how to use them certainly makes a big difference.

TorchRedBeauty

Can someone please post a PDF file or instructions for the radiator fan removal? I'm doing this install this weekend and could really use the help.

Thanks,
-TRB

jayguy

It's actually not hard to do, but I don't have any pictures of the process. There are 4 or 5 screws across the top (let me run out and check) ... 5. Just pull off your intake, then the radiator cover. You can take off the 1 screw holding on the power steering resevoir and lift it up and hang it somewhere, then there will be one more screw on that side of the fan shroud. There are 2 screws holding on the radiator overflow tank, which can also be set aside without disconnecting or spilling. Then there is one more screw on that side of the fan shroud.

The electrical plug is down below the overflow resevoir, as I recall it wasn't too hard to disconnect. Then the fan shroud and fan will just lift out, pretty easily. It will give you tons of room in front of the engine. Installation is just the reverse, but don't forget to plug the electrical connection back in! Unless you want to see your water temp gauge turn red, that is. I forgot it, and drove it to work the next day. Since traffic moved along the whole way, there was plenty of air flow, but on the way home I got stuck at a couple lights in a row. At the second light I saw the temp gauge turn red, and had a little panic attack, but within 3 seconds I had realized I had forgotten the plug. Fortunately it was a long light, so I popped the hood, jumped out, and quickly re-plugged it. The fan started up right away, and by the time I got through the intersection the temp was coming back down. Whew!

I suggest you take a look at what you're dealing with, and if you have any more questions, I'll check back in here. But it was really simple for me, and I did it on the fly, without any directions or anything. And I'm certainly no pro.

Good luck!

TorchRedBeauty

Cool! Thanks for the quick reply. I'll take a look at it tonight and post back if I have any questions.

-TRB

GIG4FUN

I would like to comment on the part you skipped and saw no need to do right off in the beginning. And that would be, to unhook the battery. I believe it would allow your PCM (computer) the oportunity to re-learn the car with the characteristics of the UDP's. I appreciate your terrific coverage of this install. I plan to do in soon as I have mine in the box .....Thank you!

dustindu4

If you give me your email address I will send you the worksheet on fan removal

jayguy

I didn't think about unhooking the battery. I didn't do it on mine simply because I did the C&L intake and Diable re-tune the same weekend. But that's good advice, and should probably be done whenever work is done on the engine.

hags1

odiaz,

I want to thank you for the great write up on the pulley install. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/worship.gif[/img]
I used your suggestions from start to finish. Everything you mentioned is right on track and very helpful.
I'd add the following comments to maybe 'enhance' your awesome document.

Step 7 side note: The Harmonic Balancer Install Kit and Harmonic Balancer Puller Kit you listed are GM products. It'll throw the AutoZone guy for a loop when he asks you 'for what vehicle?' and you tell him 'an 05 / 06' Mustang GT' and then he'll search for a puller which they won't have. Just give them the part numbers in the document and they'll get the correct puller that you need.

Step 7 side note: The 'rubber band on the puller claws' idea was awesome. Worked like a charm.

Step 10 side note: You mention " Use the original 18 MM bolt and tighten as follows." This step is the install of the new crankshaft pulley. I'd rephrase that to remind them to use the new 18 MM bolt provided with the new crankshaft pulley and reuse the large washer from the old 18 MM bolt that they removed in step 3.
Steeda makes no mention to reuse the large washer in their instructions either, but a call to Steeda this morning confirms you should use the washer with the new 18 MM bolt. Steeda also mentions to "Torque the factory crankshaft bolt to factory specifications" They don't mention to use the new 18 MM bolt, but to torque the 'factory' crankshaft bolt, but they do send along a new 18 MM crankshaft bolt.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/headscratch.gif[/img]

Other then that....thanks a million for the write up....It saved me a ton of time and helped to explain the unknown.

hags1

dustindu4

I wouldn't ever reuse a crankshaft bolt