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U-clamps on axle-back?

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Old 3/26/07, 10:45 PM
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U-clamps on axle-back?

Hey all. My FRPP GTAs are leaking, and I cannot completely get rid of leak by adjusting or tightening the band style clamps that were provided with the axle-back.

I'm thinking of trying a pair of U-clamps instead. Would that help? Any recommendations in favor or against trying this? Also which diameter U-clamp would I need?
Old 3/26/07, 11:02 PM
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Have you put a torque wrench on those with a generous amount of anti-sieze on the threads? You need to put at least 50 lbs on those before you call it a loss.
Old 3/27/07, 01:25 AM
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U-clamps have a tendency to crimp the axle-back pipe along with the over axle pipe... if you ever need to swap out axle-backs again, you might be in for some serious pain. +1 on Cali HP addict's recommendation.
Old 3/27/07, 09:26 AM
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Weld them on.
Old 3/27/07, 09:27 AM
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Thanks guys, I haven't tried the torque wrench. I'll try that if I can make it fit under there... I definitely want the option to swap out the axle-back later
Old 3/27/07, 10:45 AM
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I torqued down my FRPP Stinger clamps so tight I snapped them both. I was having the same problem. Torque is not always the solution. Some just don't seal property for whatever reason. I ended up using an old set of Flowmaster clamps that ultimately sealed the connection. I did use the U-bolt type on my original set-up(Flowmasters) without any issues. They definitely created a tight seal. The only negative would be if you every attempt to remove the mufflers, it's a PIA as the U-bolt clamps crimp the mufflers to the over-axle pipes.
Old 3/27/07, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SteelTownStang
I torqued down my FRPP Stinger clamps so tight I snapped them both. I was having they same problem. Torque is not always the solution. Some just don't seal property for whatever reason. I ended up using an old set of Flowmaster clamps that ultimately sealed the connection. I did use the U-bolt type on my original set-up(Flowmasters) without any issues. They definitely created a tight seal. The only negative would be if you every attempt to remove the mufflers, it's a PIA as the U-bolt clamps crimp the mufflers to the over-axle pipes.
Yeah, you got that right. I had a hard time getting them on my car after I got them from you. LOL....I used the U-Bolt clamps and they worked great and have no problems at all.
Old 3/27/07, 01:14 PM
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My favorites:

Dynomax Lap Joint Band Clamps

You can crank these to 65 ft/lbs.
Old 3/27/07, 04:45 PM
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Use the "U" bolt clamps. My Flowmasters would regularly buzz and leak after a couple of months using the "band" clamps.

Slapped a set of "U" clamps and a year later still no leak. Just do it.
Old 3/27/07, 06:52 PM
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Clamping Mufflers

I have had my exhaust apart more times than i want to admit trying different axle backs. I have FRPP mufflers...i had to cut the slits in pipe that calmps to midpipe...i bit wider...also used some heat resistant silicone...like a gasket maker,you find at any auto store. Mufflers are 100 percent sealed...and i didn't have to carank them to any point near breaking! good luck!
Old 3/27/07, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BuzzyStang05
My favorites:

Dynomax Lap Joint Band Clamps

You can crank these to 65 ft/lbs.
These look like they should be easier on the pipes compared to the u-bolt clamp. But can I use them safely on top of the little alignment "nipple"?
Old 3/27/07, 09:17 PM
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Clamps

The factory style clamps that came with my CORSA's were supposed to get 45 ft/lbs of torque. Seemed like a lot but I did it-no leaks.
Old 3/27/07, 09:19 PM
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Thanks all for the great info! I don't want to strip the bolts or break something, so trying a different type of clamp might be a safer bet to start with, maybe the lap-joint clamp followed by the u-bolt clamp. BTW, what's the diameter of the clamp I should go with, 2.5" right?
Old 3/27/07, 09:24 PM
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http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we...pot/index.html Heavy Duty Clamps
Old 3/29/07, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by sycd
These look like they should be easier on the pipes compared to the u-bolt clamp. But can I use them safely on top of the little alignment "nipple"?
You can. One you start cranking on the torque, the steel band just conforms around the nipple. I have a divot in the steel where the nipple is underneath. Will this cause a problem in the future with splitting/rusting? Maybe. But for now I like them.
Old 6/9/07, 02:40 PM
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So which is the best, I would like to go with the band clamps but dont to have to end up buying both if they dont work.
Old 6/9/07, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 302svt
So which is the best, I would like to go with the band clamps but dont to have to end up buying both if they dont work.
I'd go with the band-type. Have had them on a month, no leaks, and the style itself doesn't crimp the pipe.

and I have exactly these - http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_91784_-1
Old 6/9/07, 10:03 PM
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I had no issues with them, but you need to really tighten it down. I have the two 'tabs' about 3/8" from touching(the stock clamps were). You will get some initial resistance and it will feel tight, then the clamps start to really close up as you tighten. By hand it feels like a lot. The allignment nipple is annoying. I probably would of just sawed/filed it off if had gotten in the way any more then it did.
Old 6/10/07, 02:01 PM
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Did you grind off the nub for the notch on the overaxle pipe? Shaving that off will allow you to slide the pipe on better!
Old 6/10/07, 04:43 PM
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I had a simular problem when I put my x pipe on. I went to autozone and got the free pipe expander from them. Make sure both pipes are the same size. Problem fixed.


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