Steve , I found the information from the other thread , and it says that fuse #40 in the engine compartment is live only when the engine is running. I hope you get this to work , it sure would be nice ...

 

Thanks,
I've been thinking about this mod ... and came up with some rules...

1) Off the shelf parts ( No circuit board building )
2) Works even if key was in "Accessory" for any length of time.
3) Localised wiring ( No running wires to the fuse box or across the dash)
4) No taping into wires needed to make the car go.
5) TCS fully functional ( Push the button and TCS works like it always did )
6) Circuit is cold when car is off ( In standby the timer draws 3 Ma so not a big deal)

I've done all I can do with vendor spec sheets and wiring diagrams. Parts are on the way..... So far I'm into it for $22.48. More to come..........

 

This mod has been on my mind for a long time now! can't wait to see how it works!!!

 

Well it's in and it works... TCC Traction Control Chimp.
It's like have a trained monkey that never forgets to turn off the traction control when you start your car, then jumps out the window...

Went in as planned, the only problem I had was with timer documentation, it doesn't quite work the way they say....

I have the timer set at around 30 seconds. Everything starts up, settles down then click TCS off.

Photos, write up, and wiring diagram to follow.

Oh yea, made all 6 rules......

 

Very nice! Looking forward to seeing the pictures and details of the install.

 

Nice work man! I was about to have mine turned off in tune again........cant wait for the write up!

 

Wow this sounds very interesting. I hate that TC thing. Forgot to turn it off at the track once. On launch the car felt wierd then the dash light came on for the TC so after realizing that I had left it on I reached for the button while aproaching second gear, hit the button and yanked for second......problem is I hit the button and also hit the emergency flasher on accident and the whole way down the track I went with the stupid flashers on. I felt real dumb.

 

Very Interested in this mod.

 

Having trouble with the "still works if in key Accessory mode for a long time" feature. Vendor docs say it should work fine... it don't. Wiring is good seems to be timer logic, I have an email into the manufacture. I could just have a bad board... lucky me...

What's happening is, if you let it time out in Accessory then start the car the timer turns TCS back on... The timer docs say to reset timer on power up (ACC position) cut J3 jumper and timer will only work on TRG (trigger) signal (Starter ON).
So I cut J3 and the timers does nothing....
I stick J3 back on and I get timer on Accessory and timer on TRG. Not a problem if you just start your car, but for that 1 time in a thousand that you sit with the key in Accessory then start your car, I want it to work.

We'll see what the manufacture has to say.....
Movie is of car start, LED on timer lighting (lower right) and TCS going off. Movie

 

Excellent mod! I figured there might have been a way for this to work. That is quite the nice family you have there!

 

For those of us playing along at home, the power source you're using for the timer is a key-on (accessory) source, and you're jumpering that to the trigger terminal? I would think you would want an "engine on" source for the trigger input. You could use that for the timer power as well, or use a key-on source for the power.

Were you able to source an "engine on" power terminal on the right side of the dash? If not, then it's not that hard to run a wire into the passenger-side kick panel from the engine-bay fuse panel...

 

Yes this keeps the circuit cold when the car is not on. I personally like that. Although 3 Ma is not much of a standby load.

No. I'm using starter engaged to trigger the timer. Did you ever notice that your speakers turn off when you turn the key to start? A +12v signal is sent to the radio telling it to shut down the speakers when starter is turning.
that's the signal I'm using.

You are correct. If I could use an "engine on" circuit the timer would not need a trigger. Just let it power up and go. Finding a circuit that is only hot with engine on is not easy.... Plus as you turn the key past ACC you hit RUN prior to start. Most engine on circuits go hot here.. before engine is ON

Finding a fuse that is only hot in run is a bit of a challenge. Chilton and Haynes say fuse 47 is hot only in run. Hmmm.. no. Also I'm not of the mind set to mess with any circuit that is needed to make the car go.

I'm not beat yet. I'm still trying to make my six rules. Right now if any thing goes wrong my radio turns off (not that it has) not the car.
All my wires are in the center console. Easy wiring.
If I move my power source one wire over to B+ LT GRN/VIO The timer works in all modes. It's just a constant 3Ma draw. Worse comes to worse I'll do that.

All that said I've been driving around with it for a couple of days. It's sweet. I'll be driving and remember to turn off TCS and every time I look up, it's OFF! The other night it was cold and rainy push the button and it was back on.

All and all not bad for having a thought five days ago....

 

Hey Steve,

Looking forward to the reading if you get all six rules ironed out. This looks like a mod most all of us can do pretty easily. Keep up the good work and research.

 

Yes, please keep us informed. I'll be interested once you get all the issues ironed out.

 

So am I to understand that pin 7 (TCS No/off Signal wire) has to be hot to disable the TCS?

 

No, pin 7 is a pull down computer input signal. Grounding pin 7 momentarily, tells the computer to change the state on TC system. If its ON it turns it OFF if it's OFF it turns it ON. Timer pushes the button for you for one second and then lets go.

Putting +12v on a signal wire would be very bad. $$$$

"(TCS No/off Signal wire)" It's On/Off signal, sort of, it's more like do the next thing in your programming button, that's how the info button can go through a menu of choices. Do Next. Next, Next etc.

"(TCS No/off Signal wire)" NO in circuits means "Normally Open" contacts. PIN 7 is just a signal wire On/Off just happens to be its function.

Once again please don't put +12v on PIN 7.

oops ... re-read my posts I wrote No/off... my bad... ON/Off ... Change to next step in program...
Thanks for the correction I'll edit my mistake.

 

Ok, got it. I've only seen normally open as N/O. I'm an EE, but not all that familiar automotive electronics (I did signal processing). I probably should have read the 2nd page of the thread too before I posted. Very cool project

 

Ahhh! Gotcha. Looking at the pic, I saw you had a black jumper wire, and with the terminal labels obscured on the timer, I just thought...

For that matter, you could install a 500mA inline fuse off the "Run" circuit. Since you're using the onboard relay to pull the TCS switch to ground, there is no major current draw when operating, and that would also eliminate the constant draw. I'm a member of the "dead battery club", and I avoid additional key-off draw like the plague. You've come up with a simple, elegant solution for the problem, congrats!

 

Thanks! Is that your plane in the avatar? If your ever up in Jersey stop by Miller (MJX) I'd love to see it. Here's another little wiring project I've got going.


Me too. The paper work with the timer uses N.O. then NO on the broad. Then my dyslexia kicked in.

I don't want to draw if I don't have to. 3Ma standby. 40ma for one second to close relay.

Thanks, We'll see what the manufacturer has to says about the reset on power up. I'd also like to find a small project box to put
it in. It would clean things up a bit and protect against a board short.

 

This is from pony express performance. I dont know if they make one for the 05+ like the ones they have for 99-04.

http://www.mach1performance.org/traction.htm#tach