Time for the brake mods!
#1
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Time for the brake mods!
Well, since all big brake kits are out of my budget, I'm thinking about making the best out of the stock size rotors. The car is my daily driver, but I want better stopping power when I'm doing 150 mph in Germany.
At the moment, this is the setup I'm contemplating:
1. Goodridge SS brake lines
2. Hawk Ceramic pads
3. DOT 5.1 brake fluid
4. Steeda brake duct kit
The problem is, I could get a set of stock-sized aftermarket rotors too, but I'm not sure whether they're worth the money compared to how much of a difference they would make over the OEM ones.
Please help me make the best decision!
P.S.: I've read somewhere that DOT4 and DOT5.1 fluids might be too corrosive for some of the brake parts on our cars, since they're built for DOT3 fluid. Is that true?
At the moment, this is the setup I'm contemplating:
1. Goodridge SS brake lines
2. Hawk Ceramic pads
3. DOT 5.1 brake fluid
4. Steeda brake duct kit
The problem is, I could get a set of stock-sized aftermarket rotors too, but I'm not sure whether they're worth the money compared to how much of a difference they would make over the OEM ones.
Please help me make the best decision!
P.S.: I've read somewhere that DOT4 and DOT5.1 fluids might be too corrosive for some of the brake parts on our cars, since they're built for DOT3 fluid. Is that true?
#2
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Well, since all big brake kits are out of my budget, I'm thinking about making the best out of the stock size rotors. The car is my daily driver, but I want better stopping power when I'm doing 150 mph in Germany.
At the moment, this is the setup I'm contemplating:
1. Goodridge SS brake lines
2. Hawk Ceramic pads
3. DOT 5.1 brake fluid
4. Steeda brake duct kit
The problem is, I could get a set of stock-sized aftermarket rotors too, but I'm not sure whether they're worth the money compared to how much of a difference they would make over the OEM ones.
Please help me make the best decision!
P.S.: I've read somewhere that DOT4 and DOT5.1 fluids might be too corrosive for some of the brake parts on our cars, since they're built for DOT3 fluid. Is that true?
At the moment, this is the setup I'm contemplating:
1. Goodridge SS brake lines
2. Hawk Ceramic pads
3. DOT 5.1 brake fluid
4. Steeda brake duct kit
The problem is, I could get a set of stock-sized aftermarket rotors too, but I'm not sure whether they're worth the money compared to how much of a difference they would make over the OEM ones.
Please help me make the best decision!
P.S.: I've read somewhere that DOT4 and DOT5.1 fluids might be too corrosive for some of the brake parts on our cars, since they're built for DOT3 fluid. Is that true?
The brake duct and SS lines, again maybe good for track but otherwise ... bling bling.
About the fluid, I've always ran Motul 5.1 or 600 in my stangs and haven't had any problem but you are right, it is more corrosive ...
Good luck !
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Thanks for the info, Martin!
Well, I don't plan to take the car racing, but I want (need, actually) better brakes. Which of the following would you recommend for normal/spirited street use: Hawk HPS or Hawk ceramic pads?
I think I'll just go with performance pads and removing the shields in the first stage, then if I'm not happy with the improvement, I'll add SS lines and Motul RBF600 fluid. New rotors would then be the last resort.
Well, I don't plan to take the car racing, but I want (need, actually) better brakes. Which of the following would you recommend for normal/spirited street use: Hawk HPS or Hawk ceramic pads?
I think I'll just go with performance pads and removing the shields in the first stage, then if I'm not happy with the improvement, I'll add SS lines and Motul RBF600 fluid. New rotors would then be the last resort.
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#6
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Thanks for the info, Martin!
Well, I don't plan to take the car racing, but I want (need, actually) better brakes. Which of the following would you recommend for normal/spirited street use: Hawk HPS or Hawk ceramic pads?
I think I'll just go with performance pads and removing the shields in the first stage, then if I'm not happy with the improvement, I'll add SS lines and Motul RBF600 fluid. New rotors would then be the last resort.
Well, I don't plan to take the car racing, but I want (need, actually) better brakes. Which of the following would you recommend for normal/spirited street use: Hawk HPS or Hawk ceramic pads?
I think I'll just go with performance pads and removing the shields in the first stage, then if I'm not happy with the improvement, I'll add SS lines and Motul RBF600 fluid. New rotors would then be the last resort.
#7
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Hawk pads are certainly the way to go. If you run HP+ bear in mind that in combination with your brake ducts you'll be washing down the side of your car with iron dust. I used to get quite an accumulation of rust down the sides of my Camaro when I ran on track in the rain. Stick with stock rotors. While drilling and slotting helps with heat and gas dissipation, the only time you'll have a gasing issue is if you're attemting a complete stop from 150 MPH or if you ride the brakes a lot. I would not recommend drilled rotors on track as they always crack due to the rapid build-up and dissipation of heat. The key to braking performance is to get on them hard when you really need to. You'll heat soak the rotors far less than a gradual decelleration.
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Does anyone know how hard the brake lines are to install. If its a no brainer I'm sure up for it. That looks like a great kit. This car needs an upgrade in the break department anyway.
#13
For everyone looking for a good, cheap upgrade…believe me there isn’t one. I have done SS brake lines, upgraded rotors, better fluid (Motul 600 RBF), hawk pads and the out come is only slightly better than stock. Believe me …save your money and get a big brake kit. I don’t like to post a lot, but when something doesn’t work I will chime in.
#15
Brake lines ok, but stick with oem pads. Brake vent ducts are needed on track only. 150 mph on autobahn cools your brakes no problem. Use recommended fluids mentioned in your manual to avoid corrosion etc. Oh.... forgot to mention... drilled/slotted rotors should be enough for daily driving (whether is autobahn or not).-
#16
My stock pads made it 17.5 miles when I pushed the car hard the first time.(pads fell apart, thought about towing it home) car had 375 miles on it.
I have changed to the Hawk ceramic hp street pads and havent had any issues.
I removed the stock backing plates.
I use valvoline synpower brake fluid (525 dry boiling point/ 6$ per qt)
autozone/ pep boys /champion auto/ ect ect. Wont eat the seals out of the ABS unit. One qt will flush most systems and at $6 per qt you can toss whats left( I always use every drop of the qt and flush the system)
Need to change it EVERY TIME YOU GO TO THE TRACK!/ AND SOMETIMES MORE THAN ONCE A DAY!
So why spend the $$ on dot 5 when Gary from Ford Motorsports tells me that it will eat the seals out of the ABS unit?
Jay
#18
We had been dateing for a while and it knew what to expect???
All synthetic fluids (no break in required)
Roller lifters(no break in required)
"Break it in like you'll drive it" Oops "no break in required'
375 soft miles/ never turned the motor over 4k
I just pushed the car hard (5k rpm, not really hard 5.5k, or even really really hard 6.25k)
Jay
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Here's another question for the brake experts:
Will the BAER Eradispeed-Plus big brake kits (14" front and back) fit my 18x8.5" Bullitts?
Or better yet: do any of the big brake kits fit the 2005+ 18x8.5" Bullits, without the need for spacers?
Will the BAER Eradispeed-Plus big brake kits (14" front and back) fit my 18x8.5" Bullitts?
Or better yet: do any of the big brake kits fit the 2005+ 18x8.5" Bullits, without the need for spacers?
#20
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We had been dateing for a while and it knew what to expect???
All synthetic fluids (no break in required)
Roller lifters(no break in required)
"Break it in like you'll drive it" Oops "no break in required'
375 soft miles/ never turned the motor over 4k
I just pushed the car hard (5k rpm, not really hard 5.5k, or even really really hard 6.25k)
Jay
All synthetic fluids (no break in required)
Roller lifters(no break in required)
"Break it in like you'll drive it" Oops "no break in required'
375 soft miles/ never turned the motor over 4k
I just pushed the car hard (5k rpm, not really hard 5.5k, or even really really hard 6.25k)
Jay
Jay - do you know if the GT500 brakes are the same? Should I be running DOT4? I didn't really read up on them when my tech and I installed them together. I'll be bleeding mine this weekend when I get it back on the road and the brake bleeder I'm using already has fluid in it (need to check what it is - assuming DOT5.1).
Thanks,
Kristina