I am hoping that this link is not deleted.

This is a mod for the Pedal Position Sensor. A must read.

http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3792553/tm.htm

I checked mine out and its okay, no mod required.

Stay Tuned

 

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=70781

 

I am sure that when the CPU does its recalibration on startup it is looking for a resistance reading with in range from that potentiometer. So the fact that the brush marks do not go all the way to the end of the strip does not necessarily mean they are not touching (nor that they even need to) when the throttle is not depressed.

 

I just read through all 23 pages of that thread and there seems to be some discrepancy between versions for that module. Some folks have the "older" version 4 and some have the "newer" v. 1.4. I would like for someone on this forum to confirm Tube's findings and verify that this mod fixed their issue. Definitely seems promising and an easy mod, but i would much rather just use the "elongated screw holes" fix than the tape/wire bend mod.

Thoughts?

 

Also, anyone have a link to the definitive instructions on doing the gas pedal calibration...i've read the instructions but one set says to do it once, one says to do it three times. Anyone have a definitive answer for that?

 

Do it three times. That way you get it, either way.

 

Bump

 

I think some people are confusing two different types on non-responsiveness. The wire issue will create a slow throttle response because the throttle body doesn't actually start to open at the first instance of pedal movement due to the gap in contact points. The other problem with these cars is how they're programmed to react to the gas pedal being depressed, the butterflies are only going to open at a certain rate, no matter how quicky the pedal is depressed, to prevent the car from dumping excess fuel into the cylinders before the engine is ready to use it. Emissions, etc.. That is where BrenSpeed and Bamachips come in.

That may explain the difference in opinions about this mod.

~Mike~

 

this is true, it is not like the older models where pushing the throttle will mean WOT, the new system all works on a calibrated A/F ratio chart that will slowly open the butterfly valves as fuel is being increased at the same rate, same goes for the CMCVs, if too much fuel or air is introduced without those being calibrated to open at the same rate there could be problems. That is why a tune is what really works

 

Don't really get why i was quoted here...
I'm obviously not talking about anything that a "tune" can fix but rather the mechanical problem if there really is a "dead zone" to the pedal.

 

I was referring to the very first sentance in your post.

~Mike~

 

I want the throttle cable back