Thanks JLT!
6/11/05, 10:57 AM
#1
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Hey all - I thought it was only fair I post Jay's effort to make things right considering I posted issues I was having with the JLT.
Jay sent me another pipe within 3 days. I must say I am very impressed with Jay's customer service and prompt attention to making things right. He is currently working a fix to the "deforming" issue and I know we all look forward to the improved version.
As for now I'm not going to install my JLT but rather I will be running another CAI.
I have a lot of people around here eager to try the JLT so I'll probably sell it for now or put it up on Ebay. I will be waiting for the updated version of the JLT because personally I think the JLT CAI is the BEST out there - it's simple, inexpensive, and proven leader in HP gains. :worship:
Thanks everyone for the comments and ideas on my last issue. That what makes this forum so GREAT!
Cheers_Jay
Jay sent me another pipe within 3 days. I must say I am very impressed with Jay's customer service and prompt attention to making things right. He is currently working a fix to the "deforming" issue and I know we all look forward to the improved version.
As for now I'm not going to install my JLT but rather I will be running another CAI.
I have a lot of people around here eager to try the JLT so I'll probably sell it for now or put it up on Ebay. I will be waiting for the updated version of the JLT because personally I think the JLT CAI is the BEST out there - it's simple, inexpensive, and proven leader in HP gains. :worship:
Thanks everyone for the comments and ideas on my last issue. That what makes this forum so GREAT!
Cheers_Jay
6/12/05, 09:21 AM
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Good to hear,
Jay seem like a good guy ( although a little quick tempered ). I think his metal ring idea will most likely take care of the problem. That way, even if the PCV gets soft due to the heat, there will be something solid to keep it from deforming.
I certianly do not want to try and tell someone how to engineer their products, but I did come up with an inexpensive idea that would be easy to fabricate. A simple piece of stainless steel shim rolled up into a tube and inserted into the inside of the tube would also probably work. It would need a few weld tacks on the seam to keep it in a round shape. ( a Tig welder would be required ) My thought would be to make a steel tube of the same inside diameter as the intake and use it for a forming/welding jig. Also, if you weld the seam solid for about an inch from one end, you could use a flaring tool to make a flange on one end.
The nice thing about using shim is that it is fairly inexpensive ( when you buy a roll ), you do not have to try and machine a thin ring ( not that easy on a lathe ) and you could easly punch the hole for the mass air sensor in the shim before rolling it up. This would keep the entire length of the tube from deforming due to heat.
I could make you a hammer punch set that would punch all of the holes in one shot ) I figure a .010 - .015 stainless shim would work as it has enough stiffness to resist deforming.
To install it, all you would need to do is rotate it until the holes lined up and install the MASS Air sensor bolts through it to hold it in place.
I do not think it would be thick enough to cause any performance problems.
Anyway, there is my free engineering advice, and we all know what that is worth.....
Jay seem like a good guy ( although a little quick tempered ). I think his metal ring idea will most likely take care of the problem. That way, even if the PCV gets soft due to the heat, there will be something solid to keep it from deforming.
I certianly do not want to try and tell someone how to engineer their products, but I did come up with an inexpensive idea that would be easy to fabricate. A simple piece of stainless steel shim rolled up into a tube and inserted into the inside of the tube would also probably work. It would need a few weld tacks on the seam to keep it in a round shape. ( a Tig welder would be required ) My thought would be to make a steel tube of the same inside diameter as the intake and use it for a forming/welding jig. Also, if you weld the seam solid for about an inch from one end, you could use a flaring tool to make a flange on one end.
The nice thing about using shim is that it is fairly inexpensive ( when you buy a roll ), you do not have to try and machine a thin ring ( not that easy on a lathe ) and you could easly punch the hole for the mass air sensor in the shim before rolling it up. This would keep the entire length of the tube from deforming due to heat.
I could make you a hammer punch set that would punch all of the holes in one shot ) I figure a .010 - .015 stainless shim would work as it has enough stiffness to resist deforming.
To install it, all you would need to do is rotate it until the holes lined up and install the MASS Air sensor bolts through it to hold it in place.
I do not think it would be thick enough to cause any performance problems.
Anyway, there is my free engineering advice, and we all know what that is worth.....
6/12/05, 04:11 PM
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`Sorry In this case all your ideas are not good. I can readily see you know nothing about stainless shims however if you make one please send us a photo. I am sure Jay is very busy trying to locate 3 1/2 OD thinwall tubing and giving exhaust pipe material a close look.
6/12/05, 04:34 PM
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6/12/05, 04:45 PM
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Well Bill...
I do not see why you think it would not work. The trick is to provide some tension to keep the wall from collapsing due to heat over time. I do not think that the temp under the hoods is getting hot enough to cause the PVC to lose all of it's ridigity....
I admit that an exhaust flang is probably a good choice, but it is a little more difficult to put the hole in it for the mass air sensor.
You might want to offer more of a solution your self, before you trash someone else by the way....
P.S. I will put my engineering skills up against your any day you like.....
I do not see why you think it would not work. The trick is to provide some tension to keep the wall from collapsing due to heat over time. I do not think that the temp under the hoods is getting hot enough to cause the PVC to lose all of it's ridigity....
I admit that an exhaust flang is probably a good choice, but it is a little more difficult to put the hole in it for the mass air sensor.
You might want to offer more of a solution your self, before you trash someone else by the way....
P.S. I will put my engineering skills up against your any day you like.....
6/12/05, 05:42 PM
#8
Thanks for the post J-stang.
I wouldn't sell the JLT as the new billet inserts will beable to be fitted into existing JLT pipes.
I'm 100% positive this will be the best and perment fix to this issue. It will be something customers can do or they can send them in and I will do it. What ever makes everyone happy.
Jay
I wouldn't sell the JLT as the new billet inserts will beable to be fitted into existing JLT pipes.
I'm 100% positive this will be the best and perment fix to this issue. It will be something customers can do or they can send them in and I will do it. What ever makes everyone happy.
Jay
6/12/05, 05:46 PM
#9
Originally posted by killo-11@June 12, 2005, 5:37 PM
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...ndpost&p=398792
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...ndpost&p=398792
This will be a billet chunk milled to press inside the end and have a extended lip to give more surface area to clamp the filter too.
It's going to cost be quite a bit to get these made and made fast, but that's how it goes. I'm ok with it, it's my mistake.
Jay
6/12/05, 08:07 PM
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Jay,
Sounds like you have a good plan. I am glad everything is working out for you.
I hope you did not get offended by my posts. I simply wanted to help and tried to think of a solution that would work and be cost effective and require the least amount of machining.
If you need any help getting the parts machined, let me know. I know how hard it can be to get parts made quickly. I have an idle CNC mill in the shop right now and could cut you a deal on making the parts. I keep the mill around to make prototype parts because the lead time on machining in small runs can be so furstrating.
Maybe we could trade a CAI for some machining work????
Again, I hope I did not offend you....
Sounds like you have a good plan. I am glad everything is working out for you.
I hope you did not get offended by my posts. I simply wanted to help and tried to think of a solution that would work and be cost effective and require the least amount of machining.
If you need any help getting the parts machined, let me know. I know how hard it can be to get parts made quickly. I have an idle CNC mill in the shop right now and could cut you a deal on making the parts. I keep the mill around to make prototype parts because the lead time on machining in small runs can be so furstrating.
Maybe we could trade a CAI for some machining work????
Again, I hope I did not offend you....
6/13/05, 05:26 AM
#11
Originally posted by sranger@June 12, 2005, 9:10 PM
Jay,
Sounds like you have a good plan. I am glad everything is working out for you.
I hope you did not get offended by my posts.
Again, I hope I did not offend you....
Jay,
Sounds like you have a good plan. I am glad everything is working out for you.
I hope you did not get offended by my posts.
Again, I hope I did not offend you....
Thanks
Jay
6/13/05, 12:42 PM
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Originally posted by sranger@June 12, 2005, 4:48 PM
Well Bill...
I do not see why you think it would not work. The trick is to provide some tension to keep the wall from collapsing due to heat over time. I do not think that the temp under the hoods is getting hot enough to cause the PVC to lose all of it's ridigity....
I admit that an exhaust flang is probably a good choice, but it is a little more difficult to put the hole in it for the mass air sensor.
You might want to offer more of a solution your self, before you trash someone else by the way....
P.S. I will put my engineering skills up against your any day you like.....
Well Bill...
I do not see why you think it would not work. The trick is to provide some tension to keep the wall from collapsing due to heat over time. I do not think that the temp under the hoods is getting hot enough to cause the PVC to lose all of it's ridigity....
I admit that an exhaust flang is probably a good choice, but it is a little more difficult to put the hole in it for the mass air sensor.
You might want to offer more of a solution your self, before you trash someone else by the way....
P.S. I will put my engineering skills up against your any day you like.....
