Thanks RadBoss...thats a great explanation.Many folks that lower their rides don't even consider these facts.I was one of them.

 

I'm hoping the higher (and adjustable) Tokico's will be able to better handle the reduced travel there is as a result of putting on the Ultralites and dampen it better.

This may sounds silly as i'm sure these parts are made beffy and all that, but do any of you feel like you're doing something bad to the car and possibly breaking it when you go over some of these bumps and the feeling inside the cabin is as if the car is breaking apart. Maybe that's what bother me more than anything else, it's not the actual impact or jarring inside the cabin, it's the impression like something is going to brake that gives me concern.

 

I don't know what to tell you there, it sounds like you have a different version of the car that I have Ultralites are only a fraction stiffer then stock and I don't feel like anything is shaking or falling apart. They don't even bounce like very stiff springs. To me they are just like stock only they react faster to irregularities in the road. This is my 6th lowered Mustang and by far the smoothest riding. My stock RX7TT R1 had a brutal ride. Hit a pavement joint and your teeth will click together.

 

Hmmmm....i really wonder what is going on then...certainly nobody has backed me up and it's giving me reason to believe that my experience is unique. This is both good and bad. Good in the sense that most people's experience with their ride quality is positive, bad in the sense that i can't seem to "duplicate" the problem, i.e. find anyone else experiencing it. I picked up the car today and to my surprise they are going to do the front upper strut mount tsb even though i have ultralites but the parts are on order. Hopefully the new strut mounts, new Tokico D-Specs, and a proper alignment will make my problems go away.

 

A) they look trick because of the 'race car' look.

B) Aftermarket LCA and panhard bar the end bushings are stiffer or even rigid. This maintains suspension geometry at the expense of more road noise and suspension harshness. Not desirable for a daily driver unless you are a glutten for punishment. (the GT500 LCA's will fit our car. They are probably stiffer, but not as much as a poly bush)

C) The adjustable panhard bar allows you to recenter the axle after lowering (or before if the factory setting favors one side.

D) The are also a number of chassis and suspension brackets, all designed to increase rigidity.

E) there is probably a perception the aftermarket ones are stronger, but I don't know that anyone has actually proven that.

 

You may have to reconsider how you tackle speed bumps and other types you see coming at you on the road. Slow down or avoid.

Let us know when you get the Tokio's on and the alignment redone.

 

My experience with the D specs was that I played with them for a couple of weeks to get them where I liked them best. Now I don't mess with them. Nothing to worry about or maintain. Just decide what you like and forget about them. They are EASY to adjust. 4 turns from full closed will get you really close!

Ultralites are mild. I do notice a stiffer ride but only on major dips.

I had Bilsteins on my '95 and loved them too. Probably would be fine either way.

 

I have the J&L LCAs and they work great. I've had them about 9mo. with now problems. I also hav there front spring bearings for the D-Specs.

 

I'm going to about 500 shp so that was my thought, just get the GT500 ones. I'm less then an inch lower then stock so no worries with the other stuff.

 

What are front spring bearings for Tokico's? Never heard of it...

Side note: I think i'm decided on getting the J&L stuff. More specifically, the LCAs and the adjustable panhard bar. I am not getting the LCA relocation bracket per recommendation from J&L, they think there would be no tangible benefit for a daily driver, but may make the daily ride worse.

 

The go on top of the springs and the center shaft of the strut goes through it which is the center stud and nut you see on the strut towers. The 4 studs are the mounts for the springs to the towers. When you make a turn and the wheel moves up, the strut does move a little.

 

Alright....so Upper Control Arms are not that expensive and since i'm gonna be ripping appart my entire suspension anyways is there any benefit to replacing those as well? I'm not sure i understand how i'd benefit from having them. Can someone explain the gain there?

 

Wait, are you talking about front upper strut mounts?

 

Yes thats right

 

The UCAs help with the traction control. When you lower a car you need to adjust he drive shaft to pinion angle. With adjustable UCAs allow you to do that.

 

Unless i'm misunderstanding something, the J&L ones are not adjustable...is that correct? So if i would only benefit from adjustable ones, should i go with BMR or something else?

 

You have a choice of LCA's and UCA that are both adjustable or either one. Either one or both will allow correcting pinion angle for a lowered car. Adjustable UCA (Steeda, Roush, etc.) is simpler because its only one adjustment to make ... maybe not easier due to access. If both LCA's and UCA are adjustable , then other corrections can be made to correct for chassis tolerances.

If you have lowered the rear an inch or so I believe you would benefit from the lowered LCA axle mount, but you can always add that later. Just try to notice how much the rear squats when accellerating. Correcting the instant center makes a big difference.

It soundls like you are really getting into this, so my other suggestion for the front is the get the ball joint lowering kit (Steeda). This will correct lowered roll center as a result of lowering the car, and do more good than any strut bushing kit.

 

No you can go with the LCAs and then with an adjustable UCA. That is the usual way to do it. Some guys go with the LCAs that are adjustable. It makes it a little bit easier to adjust the pinion angle but then you have to have the rear aligned with the front. you don't want to be going down the road with the rear sticking out the side.

 

Going back to it after having my Steeda Sport Springs & Tokico D-Specs - all I can say is the car handles like its on rails but of course you do not have the same factory Cadillac ride and decent handling.
Its all a matter of personal taste in regards to ride quality in my opinion.
Am in my mid-forties so at this stage in life I want a compromise in ride quality plus handling - so I am putting on the stock springs and going with Bilstiens and upgrading the sway bars - oh and that nasty wheel gap everyone is so concerned with - going with meaty tires - done !!
Now I can get some long tube headers and not worry about scraping them
on the monster speed bumps I have in my neighborhood !!!


Its all going on this Saturday - sold my Steeda's & Tokicos at half the price of the Tokicos and threw in the Steeda Springs - the guy thats getting them has one heck of a deal. Had to get rid of them seeing that
my wife is still *****ing about the stock hood I have in the living room.

 

Please, post some pics of your new set-up I'm interested in seeing the meaty meat in the fender wells!.. Good luck!!!