Stroker Questions
#3
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how about with a supercharger instead of turbo? are you able to rev higher or less with a stroker?
#4
Stroking the motor starts turning it towards the under-square side of things.
Example of under-square motors are the Poncho mills, which consequently are among the torquiest motors built.
With a longer stroke the piston speed increases so you tend to lose some functional rpm due to mechanical limits. You do also tend to put more stress on the thrust side of your bores. However as Bullit995 has suggested given todays piston prep and skirt technologies it's really not an issue. Just like the misnomer about not lugging your engine. Technology has solved those issues.
Because a supercharger is belt driven and derives it's movement of air from the speed of an engine, it's likely more beneficial to have an engine that revs quickly. This would point more towards an over-square engine where the bore is increased over the rod and stroke length.
The longer stroke tends to help turbochargers because you have more pumping time. Think of the stroke as a straw. The longer the straw is the harder you've got to blow. This aids in spooling the turbo quicker, which of course also produces more torque lower in the power band.
The first thing I would look at is what you want to be doing with the car. If you're looking at light to light stuff, the stroker is ideal. If you're wanting to road race, I'd stay away from it.
Example of under-square motors are the Poncho mills, which consequently are among the torquiest motors built.
With a longer stroke the piston speed increases so you tend to lose some functional rpm due to mechanical limits. You do also tend to put more stress on the thrust side of your bores. However as Bullit995 has suggested given todays piston prep and skirt technologies it's really not an issue. Just like the misnomer about not lugging your engine. Technology has solved those issues.
Because a supercharger is belt driven and derives it's movement of air from the speed of an engine, it's likely more beneficial to have an engine that revs quickly. This would point more towards an over-square engine where the bore is increased over the rod and stroke length.
The longer stroke tends to help turbochargers because you have more pumping time. Think of the stroke as a straw. The longer the straw is the harder you've got to blow. This aids in spooling the turbo quicker, which of course also produces more torque lower in the power band.
The first thing I would look at is what you want to be doing with the car. If you're looking at light to light stuff, the stroker is ideal. If you're wanting to road race, I'd stay away from it.
#5
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Stroking the motor starts turning it towards the under-square side of things.
Example of under-square motors are the Poncho mills, which consequently are among the torquiest motors built.
With a longer stroke the piston speed increases so you tend to lose some functional rpm due to mechanical limits. You do also tend to put more stress on the thrust side of your bores. However as Bullit995 has suggested given todays piston prep and skirt technologies it's really not an issue. Just like the misnomer about not lugging your engine. Technology has solved those issues.
Because a supercharger is belt driven and derives it's movement of air from the speed of an engine, it's likely more beneficial to have an engine that revs quickly. This would point more towards an over-square engine where the bore is increased over the rod and stroke length.
The longer stroke tends to help turbochargers because you have more pumping time. Think of the stroke as a straw. The longer the straw is the harder you've got to blow. This aids in spooling the turbo quicker, which of course also produces more torque lower in the power band.
The first thing I would look at is what you want to be doing with the car. If you're looking at light to light stuff, the stroker is ideal. If you're wanting to road race, I'd stay away from it.
Example of under-square motors are the Poncho mills, which consequently are among the torquiest motors built.
With a longer stroke the piston speed increases so you tend to lose some functional rpm due to mechanical limits. You do also tend to put more stress on the thrust side of your bores. However as Bullit995 has suggested given todays piston prep and skirt technologies it's really not an issue. Just like the misnomer about not lugging your engine. Technology has solved those issues.
Because a supercharger is belt driven and derives it's movement of air from the speed of an engine, it's likely more beneficial to have an engine that revs quickly. This would point more towards an over-square engine where the bore is increased over the rod and stroke length.
The longer stroke tends to help turbochargers because you have more pumping time. Think of the stroke as a straw. The longer the straw is the harder you've got to blow. This aids in spooling the turbo quicker, which of course also produces more torque lower in the power band.
The first thing I would look at is what you want to be doing with the car. If you're looking at light to light stuff, the stroker is ideal. If you're wanting to road race, I'd stay away from it.
whatever it is tillman speed will be building my engine. the 302 stroker shortblock(9.3:1 compression) will also use my stock heads with a mild port and not sure if i will be going with an aggressive or mild cam. i trust chris rose's advise but i still seek out other peoples opinions, cant hurt either to have more info.
#6
well i do drive aggressively on the street so i wonder if it would be fun on the streets, and being im looking to get a kenne bell 2.8H would a stroker setup be ideal for the drag strip? let me know if you need more info, i have been recommend a 302 stroker setup for my engine build for when i slap on a supercharger and wanted multiple opinions.
whatever it is tillman speed will be building my engine. the 302 stroker shortblock(9.3:1 compression) will also use my stock heads with a mild port and not sure if i will be going with an aggressive or mild cam. i trust chris rose's advise but i still seek out other peoples opinions, cant hurt either to have more info.
whatever it is tillman speed will be building my engine. the 302 stroker shortblock(9.3:1 compression) will also use my stock heads with a mild port and not sure if i will be going with an aggressive or mild cam. i trust chris rose's advise but i still seek out other peoples opinions, cant hurt either to have more info.
the stroker with a positive displacement blower is going to be incredibly torquey. Probably so much so that low speed traction is going to be an extreme issue.
With a build engine and 2.6l blower you're looking at making power above 600hp. The factory mil with beefed up internals is already capable of making that power in a streetable manor.
With that said, I'd take the money you save by not building a stroker or big bore and put it into healthier parts in the engine, better fuel system components, or put towards the drivetrain parts that you'd definitely need to upgrade based on the power you'll be making.
Freshen your factory block with a .020 bore and cleanup. Make sure whoever is doing the build preps the block on a torque plate and make sure it's sonic tested as well. Build from there.
#7
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My suggestion here is to not do a stroker or a big bore. not because it won't make more power, but because the money can be used elsewhere.
the stroker with a positive displacement blower is going to be incredibly torquey. Probably so much so that low speed traction is going to be an extreme issue.
With a build engine and 2.6l blower you're looking at making power above 600hp. The factory mil with beefed up internals is already capable of making that power in a streetable manor.
With that said, I'd take the money you save by not building a stroker or big bore and put it into healthier parts in the engine, better fuel system components, or put towards the drivetrain parts that you'd definitely need to upgrade based on the power you'll be making.
Freshen your factory block with a .020 bore and cleanup. Make sure whoever is doing the build preps the block on a torque plate and make sure it's sonic tested as well. Build from there.
the stroker with a positive displacement blower is going to be incredibly torquey. Probably so much so that low speed traction is going to be an extreme issue.
With a build engine and 2.6l blower you're looking at making power above 600hp. The factory mil with beefed up internals is already capable of making that power in a streetable manor.
With that said, I'd take the money you save by not building a stroker or big bore and put it into healthier parts in the engine, better fuel system components, or put towards the drivetrain parts that you'd definitely need to upgrade based on the power you'll be making.
Freshen your factory block with a .020 bore and cleanup. Make sure whoever is doing the build preps the block on a torque plate and make sure it's sonic tested as well. Build from there.
#8
I haven't dug into the specifics of the 3v engine's underpinnings but I seem to recall the 2v GT cast crank is good to around 600rwhp with proper prep. If the 3v carries a forged crank, you'll probably be set with that.
That is something you definitely want to talk about though. I don't know that information at all.
I will say that although the experience hasn't dictated it, it scares me to do a big bore on a boosted application. The bores get way to thin for my liking in those applications. I don't think that's really what you're looking for though.
#9
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I mean it's a cool novelty, but you're not going to see a huge increase in power over a properly prepped 281. The reason the cost is similar is because all you're really changing is the crankshaft.
I haven't dug into the specifics of the 3v engine's underpinnings but I seem to recall the 2v GT cast crank is good to around 600rwhp with proper prep. If the 3v carries a forged crank, you'll probably be set with that.
That is something you definitely want to talk about though. I don't know that information at all.
I will say that although the experience hasn't dictated it, it scares me to do a big bore on a boosted application. The bores get way to thin for my liking in those applications. I don't think that's really what you're looking for though.
I haven't dug into the specifics of the 3v engine's underpinnings but I seem to recall the 2v GT cast crank is good to around 600rwhp with proper prep. If the 3v carries a forged crank, you'll probably be set with that.
That is something you definitely want to talk about though. I don't know that information at all.
I will say that although the experience hasn't dictated it, it scares me to do a big bore on a boosted application. The bores get way to thin for my liking in those applications. I don't think that's really what you're looking for though.
#10
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!
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What he said. Your limiting factor in RPM will be how fast you can spin the blower, not the rotating assembly.
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