Steering linkage removal
#1
Steering linkage removal
Installing long tubes, steering linkage is in the way. Have searched, everywhere and only reference is to remove lower bolt and 2 inside (firewall) nuts. Done that, can only pull out about 1/2 inch of linkage from 'u-joint', still need another 1/2 inch or so. Don't want to pry it out as then I have no clue how I'd get it back in. Will the rack and pinion just pivot out of the way, disengaging the steering shaft or do I need the shaft our prior to trying to move the rack & pinion? Got about 2 hours into trying to muscle the drivers side in with that darn linkage in the way. Have jacked up the engine probably more than I should, lowering it increases the problem. Gonna try forcing the engine toward the passenger side to get enough clearance. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!!
#2
Installing long tubes, steering linkage is in the way. Have searched, everywhere and only reference is to remove lower bolt and 2 inside (firewall) nuts. Done that, can only pull out about 1/2 inch of linkage from 'u-joint', still need another 1/2 inch or so. Don't want to pry it out as then I have no clue how I'd get it back in. Will the rack and pinion just pivot out of the way, disengaging the steering shaft or do I need the shaft our prior to trying to move the rack & pinion? Got about 2 hours into trying to muscle the drivers side in with that darn linkage in the way. Have jacked up the engine probably more than I should, lowering it increases the problem. Gonna try forcing the engine toward the passenger side to get enough clearance. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!!
#3
That will probably be what I do next...remove all the studs. Was hoping not to have to as access is near impossible it seems, and I'm trying to make sure all the holes line up. Seen so many posts about having to enlarge the flange holes. Yep, I've got the mounts loose, had them off, now just haning on the mount studs, not causing an issue. Dropping the motor actually closes the distance between the head and the linkage, causing the header to tweak at an angle so as not to go over studs. Was going to take out all the studs but there's a couple that look like there'd be no room to get them back in with the header tube in the way. Guess I'll start off today with removing at least the ones I know I can get back in.
Thanks, sort of just sitting here wondering how to tackle it today...you gave me a direction....now... to get the kid up and go crawl around and cuss!!
Thanks, sort of just sitting here wondering how to tackle it today...you gave me a direction....now... to get the kid up and go crawl around and cuss!!
#5
That will probably be what I do next...remove all the studs. Was hoping not to have to as access is near impossible it seems, and I'm trying to make sure all the holes line up. Seen so many posts about having to enlarge the flange holes. Yep, I've got the mounts loose, had them off, now just haning on the mount studs, not causing an issue. Dropping the motor actually closes the distance between the head and the linkage, causing the header to tweak at an angle so as not to go over studs. Was going to take out all the studs but there's a couple that look like there'd be no room to get them back in with the header tube in the way. Guess I'll start off today with removing at least the ones I know I can get back in.
Thanks, sort of just sitting here wondering how to tackle it today...you gave me a direction....now... to get the kid up and go crawl around and cuss!!
Thanks, sort of just sitting here wondering how to tackle it today...you gave me a direction....now... to get the kid up and go crawl around and cuss!!
#6
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Location: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
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Yeah...when we did Aircare84's car we had the motor mounts and brackets completely removed and all of the lower manifold studs were removed from the heads. Raise the engine as high as you can go and move the engine from side to side. Also, how high do you have the car? If it not up about as high as the jack will go you will hit the ground with the headers when trying to rotate them into place. Good luck!!
Scott
Scott
#7
Bingo!! Little bit of coaching from Faber on the phone and she's in!!!
My kid, while tring to remove the back lower stud on drivers side stripped the head of the stud. So with the reassurance from Faber that it IS possible, I got the flange resting on that stud then levered it into place and onto that stud. Kid is putting nuts back on right now!!
Looks like I'll be firing it back up in about an hour or so, after putting everything back on. Such a great feeling after wrestling with this for about 2 hours last night, in the dark, with a nice cold wind.
Thanks guys.
My kid, while tring to remove the back lower stud on drivers side stripped the head of the stud. So with the reassurance from Faber that it IS possible, I got the flange resting on that stud then levered it into place and onto that stud. Kid is putting nuts back on right now!!
Looks like I'll be firing it back up in about an hour or so, after putting everything back on. Such a great feeling after wrestling with this for about 2 hours last night, in the dark, with a nice cold wind.
Thanks guys.
#9
Life is never easy...Cant find one manifold stud. Don't recall myself or my son dropping one, but must have. Had three kids looking for about an hour up in between, over, under, beside everything. No luck. Got my oldest on the wild goose chase to find a bolt. No luck at Checker or Autozone, headed to Home Depot now. Doesn't make any sense...working on a concrete driveway with a wall on one side..no place or the darn thing to go. We'll figure something out, soon I hope!
#12
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Join Date: December 4, 2007
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I'm pretty sure my good friend and I could do it(the 20 year old kid built a **** FFR Cobra).
Oh well, gotta learn somehow!
#14
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Join Date: December 4, 2007
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