GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Steering linkage removal

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Old 12/23/07, 10:27 AM
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Steering linkage removal

Installing long tubes, steering linkage is in the way. Have searched, everywhere and only reference is to remove lower bolt and 2 inside (firewall) nuts. Done that, can only pull out about 1/2 inch of linkage from 'u-joint', still need another 1/2 inch or so. Don't want to pry it out as then I have no clue how I'd get it back in. Will the rack and pinion just pivot out of the way, disengaging the steering shaft or do I need the shaft our prior to trying to move the rack & pinion? Got about 2 hours into trying to muscle the drivers side in with that darn linkage in the way. Have jacked up the engine probably more than I should, lowering it increases the problem. Gonna try forcing the engine toward the passenger side to get enough clearance. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!!
Old 12/23/07, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CantWin1
Installing long tubes, steering linkage is in the way. Have searched, everywhere and only reference is to remove lower bolt and 2 inside (firewall) nuts. Done that, can only pull out about 1/2 inch of linkage from 'u-joint', still need another 1/2 inch or so. Don't want to pry it out as then I have no clue how I'd get it back in. Will the rack and pinion just pivot out of the way, disengaging the steering shaft or do I need the shaft our prior to trying to move the rack & pinion? Got about 2 hours into trying to muscle the drivers side in with that darn linkage in the way. Have jacked up the engine probably more than I should, lowering it increases the problem. Gonna try forcing the engine toward the passenger side to get enough clearance. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!!
have you tried just pulling the studs out, fitting the header, and starting a couple studs to hold it in place? have you removed the motor mount brackets completely? I pulled the brackets, and the mounts, and did not touch the linkage. it worked perfectly. also if you have pulled the brackets and mounts you can actually lower the motor down to get a little better access.
Old 12/23/07, 11:04 AM
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That will probably be what I do next...remove all the studs. Was hoping not to have to as access is near impossible it seems, and I'm trying to make sure all the holes line up. Seen so many posts about having to enlarge the flange holes. Yep, I've got the mounts loose, had them off, now just haning on the mount studs, not causing an issue. Dropping the motor actually closes the distance between the head and the linkage, causing the header to tweak at an angle so as not to go over studs. Was going to take out all the studs but there's a couple that look like there'd be no room to get them back in with the header tube in the way. Guess I'll start off today with removing at least the ones I know I can get back in.

Thanks, sort of just sitting here wondering how to tackle it today...you gave me a direction....now... to get the kid up and go crawl around and cuss!!
Old 12/23/07, 11:09 AM
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I unbolted the U-joint at the rack input shaft. It just pushed up out of the way enough for me to get the header in place.
Old 12/23/07, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CantWin1
That will probably be what I do next...remove all the studs. Was hoping not to have to as access is near impossible it seems, and I'm trying to make sure all the holes line up. Seen so many posts about having to enlarge the flange holes. Yep, I've got the mounts loose, had them off, now just haning on the mount studs, not causing an issue. Dropping the motor actually closes the distance between the head and the linkage, causing the header to tweak at an angle so as not to go over studs. Was going to take out all the studs but there's a couple that look like there'd be no room to get them back in with the header tube in the way. Guess I'll start off today with removing at least the ones I know I can get back in.

Thanks, sort of just sitting here wondering how to tackle it today...you gave me a direction....now... to get the kid up and go crawl around and cuss!!
they will all go back in with no trouble. you just need a 5 or 6mm end wrench to tighten them back up. you just slip them in at a little bit of an angle from below. the holes line up perfectly. If you have any doubt about the alignment just mate them up to your stock manifolds.
Old 12/23/07, 11:27 AM
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Yeah...when we did Aircare84's car we had the motor mounts and brackets completely removed and all of the lower manifold studs were removed from the heads. Raise the engine as high as you can go and move the engine from side to side. Also, how high do you have the car? If it not up about as high as the jack will go you will hit the ground with the headers when trying to rotate them into place. Good luck!!
Scott
Old 12/23/07, 12:04 PM
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Bingo!! Little bit of coaching from Faber on the phone and she's in!!!
My kid, while tring to remove the back lower stud on drivers side stripped the head of the stud. So with the reassurance from Faber that it IS possible, I got the flange resting on that stud then levered it into place and onto that stud. Kid is putting nuts back on right now!!

Looks like I'll be firing it back up in about an hour or so, after putting everything back on. Such a great feeling after wrestling with this for about 2 hours last night, in the dark, with a nice cold wind.

Thanks guys.
Old 12/23/07, 12:43 PM
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We want sound clips!
Old 12/23/07, 02:02 PM
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Life is never easy...Cant find one manifold stud. Don't recall myself or my son dropping one, but must have. Had three kids looking for about an hour up in between, over, under, beside everything. No luck. Got my oldest on the wild goose chase to find a bolt. No luck at Checker or Autozone, headed to Home Depot now. Doesn't make any sense...working on a concrete driveway with a wall on one side..no place or the darn thing to go. We'll figure something out, soon I hope!
Old 12/23/07, 02:42 PM
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I didn't know long tubes required that much work. Crap...
Old 12/23/07, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Pwny
I didn't know long tubes required that much work. Crap...


Are you rich?? You could always pay to do it. Really if you have someone with some mechanical experience you could get it done in 6-8 hours tops. Go for it!!!!
Scott
Old 12/23/07, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
Are you rich?? You could always pay to do it. Really if you have someone with some mechanical experience you could get it done in 6-8 hours tops. Go for it!!!!
Scott

I'm pretty sure my good friend and I could do it(the 20 year old kid built a **** FFR Cobra).

Oh well, gotta learn somehow!
Old 12/23/07, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Pwny
I'm pretty sure my good friend and I could do it(the 20 year old kid built a **** FFR Cobra).

Oh well, gotta learn somehow!

Nothing better than doing it is a better teacher... Besides...we will help you if needed!
Scott
Old 12/23/07, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
Nothing better than doing it is a better teacher... Besides...we will help you if needed!
Scott

Thanks bud. I have plenty of time before it happens however. Hopefully I will get a really good internship in Columbus or Chicago.

I'm sure I'll keep everybody updated.
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