Removing the Shaker only requires removing the two throttle body bolts. The PITA with the shaker comes when reinstalling making sure the gaps around the hood trim and scoop are even.

 

Step 14 to End has been revised.

Reason: Deleted the crank pulley boil/freeze method and replaced with harmonic balancer install tool method.

If you're planning on doing this install, please note the new changes/revisions.

 

Whos the man??????????/ Bills the man

Perfectionst maybe....................

 

I'm new here and am very impressed with your write ups Bill. One of the reasons this site is so great. It really gives people the confidence to do-it-themselves! Looking forward to the next edition already...

What type of HP gains can you expect from the pully swap?

 

Thanks Tom.

I've read that the UDP's are good for ~5 hp at the rear wheels. I know that doesn't sound like much, but I did notice that the engine rev's up a bit quicker.

 

Is ther any effect on the alternator since it is now turning a bit slower?

 

bill's the man. thanks for the great write-up. just now finished my install and if anything your post gave me the guts to do the job myself. after 2 trips to ford for a new bolts. 3 trips to autozone trying various pullers (3rd time was a charm) CHRYSLER SPECIFIC PULLER saves the day.

As for the water pump and alternator one thing worth considering is upping your idle to maybe 800 or 850 rpms. the steeda pulley is 15% smaller so if your before-RPM is 700 you'd want (700X1.15) = 805

 

Another outstanding HOW TO DO IT

 

What are the numbers for the underdrive pulleys for? 90 degrees?

 

Instead of torq you strech the bolt.

 

Nice writeup again Bill. I can say I'm pretty happy with the $110 I paid to get these installed last year given all that.

I too found my Steeda pullies helped the engine rev faster. It's not a gigantic performance difference but I could tell the difference and would put them on again.

 

This is one mod that makes me nervous even though it is low cost. What to do?

 

Finally installed the pullys after letting them sit for months in my basement. This great write-up made it a snap! One of the easiest mods I've done.

 

thanks bill you're worth your weight in gold (if not more)...just completed the Steeda Underdrive Pulley, Lakewood Panhard Bar & Brace, Steeda Chrome Molly Lower Control Arms all with the help of your excellent how-to's.

I did however run into some trouble getting the new pulley on, seems as one has to shim up the installation bolt quite a bit more than just using the factory washer...managed getting the pulley bolt out without the use of an impact wrench which was a good thing as my compressor gave up its life the other day ;]

Next week I'll be tackling the (hopefully) somewhat easier Steeda Billet Charge Motion Control Plates, just waiting on the tune.

I run E85 with excellent results (since May this year) with a performance tune from rune85.com and modified by BamaChips, but being as the rune85.com guy never gets back to me I'll have to go back to 93 gas and order a race tune from BamaChips.

So thanks Bill for all your help, just another satisfied installer who found it way much easier with your amazing attention to detail.

 

Andy, thats a really hot ride in your sig! Oh and the stang is nice too.

 

Why did you have to shim the crank bolt? The one you get in the kit isn't the one you leave in. Its only to pull the pulley onto the crank. Your suppose to get another new crank bolt form Ford.

 

I agree. No shim required if you used the proper bolt. One is used to put the pulley on and than you replace it with the proper bolt included in the kit.
Scott

 

Of course I didn't leave the install kit bolt in there, for some reason the install kit bolt with factory washer bottomed out before the crank snout was far enough on and I could not get the factory bolt threading in...so by adding a few shims to the install kit bolt and factory washer I was able to push the pulley on that little bit more, just enough so as to install the new factory bolt I bought.

 

There is no proper bolt in the kit only an alternator bolt/washer and an installer bolt, you either use the original factory bolt or buy a new one like I did, as recommended by Bill.

 

Thanks mate...I'll take that as a compliment ;]