GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Steeda Ultralite spring install complete!

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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 09:07 AM
  #41  
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From: SoCal
I know this is an old thread, but I have a couple questions:

- exactly how do you measure the rear axle alignment?
Easy way is to drop a blump bob (tie any small weighted object on the end of some string) and suspend it from the center of the wheel well and take a dimension from the string to the wheel center cap. Repeat this for the other side and you'll see which way the axle is shifted.


- have the rear springs sagged (gotten lower) with time?
Nope, still measures at a 1" drop.


- if I find that I need a panhard bar, is it difficult to install?
I don't have one, so I can't tell you what's involved installing one. But, from what I've read, it's not that difficult.


- I've read that the rear diff shoudln't be used as a jacking point. Is that true? What's an alternative jacking point?
This has been debated a number of times here. I place a hard rubber piece on top of the jack cup and place it under the flat spot of the pumpkin housing, no issues with me.




- where did you place the jackstands (for the rear install - can't tell in the pics)?
Just forward of the LCA's on a spot on the frame.




- did you use a torque wrench when putting things back together, or just tighten until snug?
I think I only used a torque wrench on the wheel lug nuts.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 07:59 AM
  #42  
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Where can I get, and how much do I have to pay, for a front spring compressor? I really want to do this mod myself. Glad I chose the UltraLites- they are exactly what I was looking for.

Excellent documentary piece, too!
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 08:12 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Rash
I know this is an old thread, but I have a couple questions:

- exactly how do you measure the rear axle alignment?
- have the rear springs sagged (gotten lower) with time?
- if I find that I need a panhard bar, is it difficult to install?
- I've read that the rear diff shoudln't be used as a jacking point. Is that true? What's an alternative jacking point?
- where did you place the jackstands (for the rear install - can't tell in the pics)?
- did you use a torque wrench when putting things back together, or just tighten until snug?

TIA
One more thing: When using the plumb-bob method to measure axle position, remember that in order to get an accurate measurement, the car's body must be perfectly level with planet earth. If you are sitting uneven (uneven concrete, etc..), the string will hang straight down, but the measurement from one side to the other will be adversely affected.

If you roll the car to the right a couple of degrees, you will see that the string moves closer to the left wheel, and moves further away from the right wheel. Watch those measurements!! You might end up with a panhard rod that you never needed.
Remember- everything is relative!
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 08:48 AM
  #44  
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A+ would read again....

Makes me want to go get my suspension stuff and do it right now.

Thats a nice drop... not too much not too little.... just right.

congrats.. looks good
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:06 AM
  #45  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by helicfii
Where can I get, and how much do I have to pay, for a front spring compressor?
Most autopart stores can rent you one (not like the ones I used, but the screw type). Another alternative is to take your strut assys and your new springs to a shop and have them swap the springs for you.


Originally Posted by helicfii
... If you roll the car to the right a couple of degrees, you will see that the string moves closer to the left wheel, and moves further away from the right wheel. Watch those measurements!! You might end up with a panhard rod that you never needed.



Originally Posted by 06GTwBOOST
A+ would read again.... Makes me want to go get my suspension stuff and do it right now.
Thats a nice drop... not too much not too little.... just right. congrats.. looks good
Thanks! Funny how my old post is coming back to life again.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:56 AM
  #46  
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Thanks man!
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 10:30 AM
  #47  
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Thanks all for the great info, especially TacoBill - awesome write up. Makes me actually believe I can do this myself, although my wife's not so sure. I guess she has good reason, since I managed to take two large paint chips out of my quarter panel when the tape measure I was using to measure the wheel well gap snapped up and slammed the car. DOH!
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 02:45 PM
  #48  
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I rented/borrowed a spring compressor from Kragen Autoparts. I think it is Checker in other parts of the country. You pay them an upfront deposit and if you return it within 24 hours you get the deposit back so it's free. Another observation on the Ultralites: Sitting in the driveway unladen the car does not really have that aggressive, lowered look and it still has that "butt in the air" stance. However, with driver aboard the rear drops more than the front and it definitely looks more sinister. With my 190 lbs. in the driver's seat the front drops 1/16" while the rear drops a full half inch. I don't know if all the aftermarket springs are like this. Probably most of the progressive rate ones have the same effect. In any case with Ultralites the car doesn't look as mean sitting in a parking lot but it looks just fine on the road.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 03:09 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by TacoBill

Thanks! Funny how my old post is coming back to life again.
hahaha yes it's kinda funny...

I had a thread on another forum I goto, come up again after 3 1/2 years...

I guess good writeups are hard to find and when you find em.. they don't die easily.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:05 PM
  #50  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by 65sohc
Another observation on the Ultralites: Sitting in the driveway unladen the car does not really have that aggressive, lowered look...
It doesn't?

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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #51  
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I was watching Horsepower TV yesterday and they replaces the front shocks on an 05 with the Stage 3 Suspension. THey unscrewed the top bolt of the strut assembly while it was all still in the car and when they pulled out the spring was off it then. I thought that was kind of strange, has anyone else seen it done this way?
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 10:20 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by hatchttu
I was watching Horsepower TV yesterday and they replaces the front shocks on an 05 with the Stage 3 Suspension. THey unscrewed the top bolt of the strut assembly while it was all still in the car and when they pulled out the spring was off it then. I thought that was kind of strange, has anyone else seen it done this way?


whatever works. I guess you dont need a spring compressor if the car will suffice.. and i'm guessing the replacement springs were short enough to not have touse a compressor?

I didn't see that episode so i'm just guessing?
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 03:35 PM
  #53  
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From: Austin TX
awesome write up! Im looking to do springs to my torch red GT aswell, so these ultralite springs are def. in the 'running'
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 04:03 PM
  #54  
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Lowered with steeda ultralites. Much better "feel" of the road, but still a smooth ride.
Attached Thumbnails Steeda Ultralite spring install complete!-mustang1-custom-.jpg  
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 04:08 PM
  #55  
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Better picture
Attached Thumbnails Steeda Ultralite spring install complete!-mustang2-custom-.jpg  
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by hatchttu
I was watching Horsepower TV yesterday and they replaces the front shocks on an 05 with the Stage 3 Suspension. THey unscrewed the top bolt of the strut assembly while it was all still in the car and when they pulled out the spring was off it then. I thought that was kind of strange, has anyone else seen it done this way?
I saw that show, too. It was pretty informative. The key to avoiding the spring compressor is to preload the spring with a floorjack under the hub assembly. However, I don't think I would install the new one the same way. The Steeda springs are short enough not to require a compressor so I would (and did) remove the upper mount from the car and assemble it as a unit. With all due respect to Taco Bill, IMO you have to look closely to tell that the car is lowered in comparison to most of the other setups like Eibach, H&R, and even Ford Racing (which I guess is Eibach). But like I said, with a normal load the rear springs compress much more than the fronts giving, a tougher look going down the road.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 04:09 PM
  #57  
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Help. I'm in the middle of my install on the front, and I didn't check this prior to removal:

On top of the strut cap there is an arrow stamped into the metal, wit a half-moon cut-out.. SHould the arrow point outdboard? The strut will fit up top with the cap rotated in any direction, but the center fo the strut is repositioned every time you rotate the position of the 4 cap screws.!

HELP! THanks!
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:01 PM
  #58  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by helicfii
Help. I'm in the middle of my install on the front, and I didn't check this prior to removal:

On top of the strut cap there is an arrow stamped into the metal, wit a half-moon cut-out.. SHould the arrow point outdboard? The strut will fit up top with the cap rotated in any direction, but the center fo the strut is repositioned every time you rotate the position of the 4 cap screws.!

HELP! THanks!
Arrow points INWARD and lines up with the hole on the bottom spring base (on the side where the 2 bolts for the strut spindle go).



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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:27 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by TacoBill
Arrow points INWARD
Bill, I'm pretty sure the arrow points OUTWARD.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:29 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Bill, I'm pretty sure the arrow points OUTWARD.
You are right! You can even see it in Bill's picture.
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