Some pics of the new roll bar
[attachmentid=45459][attachmentid=45458][attachmentid=45460][attachmentid=45461]Here are a few pics of the new 6 point roll bar. It's nice and tight all around. The door bars are removeable and the tab that it latches too is recessed to avoid wacking your elbow when getting in. The top hoop is close enough to the headliner that you can just fit business cards in-as you can see. I'm not necessarily looking for a place to store business cards, just means it's not hanging in harms way. The bars that run to the rear go into the top of the tray. Full use of the folding rear seats and no bars to hit your head on. The bars drop down into the trunk, but didn't take up much space at all in the trunk. The only thing else I want to do with it is get a hold of some nice attaching pieces, cut off the crossbar and weld the latches in. It'll make the bar removeable. My kid enjoys climbing under it, although, it'll be a bit more streetable if it's removeable. Other than that, I'm totally satisfied!
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Joined: January 17, 2006
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(169stang @ February 18, 2006, 9:12 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
[attachmentid=45459][attachmentid=45458][attachmentid=45460][attachmentid=45461]Here are a few pics of the new 6 point roll bar. It's nice and tight all around. The door bars are removeable and the tab that it latches too is recessed to avoid wacking your elbow when getting in. The top hoop is close enough to the headliner that you can just fit business cards in-as you can see. I'm not necessarily looking for a place to store business cards, just means it's not hanging in harms way. The bars that run to the rear go into the top of the tray. Full use of the folding rear seats and no bars to hit your head on. The bars drop down into the trunk, but didn't take up much space at all in the trunk. The only thing else I want to do with it is get a hold of some nice attaching pieces, cut off the crossbar and weld the latches in. It'll make the bar removeable. My kid enjoys climbing under it, although, it'll be a bit more streetable if it's removeable. Other than that, I'm totally satisfied!
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nice.
i like the idea about making the cross bar removable. just do it so it's not noticeable. NHRA requires that bar to be welded to the main hoop. if i have to put a bar in mine at some point i'll do the same thing. looks great!!! nothing like taking a new car and cutting on it huh?
[attachmentid=45459][attachmentid=45458][attachmentid=45460][attachmentid=45461]Here are a few pics of the new 6 point roll bar. It's nice and tight all around. The door bars are removeable and the tab that it latches too is recessed to avoid wacking your elbow when getting in. The top hoop is close enough to the headliner that you can just fit business cards in-as you can see. I'm not necessarily looking for a place to store business cards, just means it's not hanging in harms way. The bars that run to the rear go into the top of the tray. Full use of the folding rear seats and no bars to hit your head on. The bars drop down into the trunk, but didn't take up much space at all in the trunk. The only thing else I want to do with it is get a hold of some nice attaching pieces, cut off the crossbar and weld the latches in. It'll make the bar removeable. My kid enjoys climbing under it, although, it'll be a bit more streetable if it's removeable. Other than that, I'm totally satisfied!
[attachmentid=45462][attachmentid=45463][attachmentid=45464][attachmentid=45465]more
[attachmentid=45466][attachmentid=45467][attachmentid=45468]
[/b][/quote]
nice.
i like the idea about making the cross bar removable. just do it so it's not noticeable. NHRA requires that bar to be welded to the main hoop. if i have to put a bar in mine at some point i'll do the same thing. looks great!!! nothing like taking a new car and cutting on it huh?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GIG4FUN @ February 18, 2006, 7:27 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
My last Pro Street '69 Mustang FastBack had Diamond patterned red crushed velvet padding...(It was an eighties thing!)
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[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/lol.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/lol.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/lol.gif[/img]
My last Pro Street '69 Mustang FastBack had Diamond patterned red crushed velvet padding...(It was an eighties thing!)
[/b][/quote]
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/lol.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/lol.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/lol.gif[/img]
What I did learn...after the fact, is that a 6 pt. roll bar is required to be 1 3/4" in diameter tubing. Mine was made with 1 5/8" dia. I never knew of this rule until Ken from Modular Depot noticed it in the pics over at MF.com. I called the builder, somewhat irritated. 6 pts. aren't certified anyways, and he says 99% of the builders use 1 5/8". I guess the 1 3/4" jacks up the price significantly (cost of materials in Chromoly). 1 5/8" is what is used for 12 Pts. Eventually, no time soon, I'll be going to a full cage to be legal for what it'll run. I'm not worried about passing tech with it. The builder told me if I ever was failed in tech, he would replace the rollbar for free with 1 3/4". I thought it was an outstanding jesture! So...being that the bars not certified, I'll make the crossbar removeable. Padding will cover the attaching pieces just nice! I'll be posting the next time I run her at Moroso as well as other events. I look forward to meeting some of you that I've chatted with for the last year or so!
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A 6 point bar doesn't need to be certified. It is up to the discretion of the tech inspector checking your car. When the techie checks the car and asks how quick it is. Tell him or her your car runs 11.80's. This gets you in the track. The techie could fail you if you say anything quicker than 11.50.
Just for info purpose,You cant have that bend at the bottom of your main hoop.It must go strait up and over.Were you have it bent to go around the sill is a no no.That point can bend down if you were to land on the roof.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mikem @ February 19, 2006, 7:59 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Just for info purpose,You cant have that bend at the bottom of your main hoop.It must go strait up and over.Were you have it bent to go around the sill is a no no.That point can bend down if you were to land on the roof.
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Correct - I saw that as well. It is still a beautiful job
Just for info purpose,You cant have that bend at the bottom of your main hoop.It must go strait up and over.Were you have it bent to go around the sill is a no no.That point can bend down if you were to land on the roof.
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Correct - I saw that as well. It is still a beautiful job
9 is not my lucky number.
Joined: March 12, 2004
Posts: 3,663
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I saw it too but I didn't want to rain on his parade. A good tech inspector will probably pick up on that.
Dave, on tuesday I'll scan the section out of the IHRA rulebook on cage specs and I'll send it to you. The rule book is pretty specific on tubing dimensions.
Dave, on tuesday I'll scan the section out of the IHRA rulebook on cage specs and I'll send it to you. The rule book is pretty specific on tubing dimensions.
No parade here. Just a rollbar. If the rollbar fails any tech, he's already offered to replace for free. I'm not worried about it at all right now. I'm more concerned with getting the car going for Bradenton.
I do appreciate all the feedback. I never looked at the rules for rollbars/cages. I just knew I needed one for 11.49 or quicker.
I do appreciate all the feedback. I never looked at the rules for rollbars/cages. I just knew I needed one for 11.49 or quicker.
What I found out today was that 1 5/8" is okay if using Chromoly, while if using mild steel, you have to use 1 3/4".
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(169stang @ February 20, 2006, 4:53 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
What I found out today was that 1 5/8" is okay if using Chromoly, while if using mild steel, you have to use 1 3/4".
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Good Good Good [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img]
Bet that feels a bit better, even though.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
What I found out today was that 1 5/8" is okay if using Chromoly, while if using mild steel, you have to use 1 3/4".
[/b][/quote]
Good Good Good [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img]
Bet that feels a bit better, even though.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(169stang @ February 20, 2006, 2:53 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
What I found out today was that 1 5/8" is okay if using Chromoly, while if using mild steel, you have to use 1 3/4".
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What sanctioning body, David?
The NHRA rule book looks like it only allows 1-5/8" for a full cage (ref reg 4:11). For a 6-pt roll bar, it specifies 1-3/4", except for the cross-bar behind the shoulders (ref reg 4:10). The difference between Chromoly and mild steel appears to only effect the wall thickness of the tubing, not the dia of the tubing. Heck, maybe they changed it for 2006... I only have the 2005 rule book.
What I found out today was that 1 5/8" is okay if using Chromoly, while if using mild steel, you have to use 1 3/4".
[/b][/quote]
What sanctioning body, David?
The NHRA rule book looks like it only allows 1-5/8" for a full cage (ref reg 4:11). For a 6-pt roll bar, it specifies 1-3/4", except for the cross-bar behind the shoulders (ref reg 4:10). The difference between Chromoly and mild steel appears to only effect the wall thickness of the tubing, not the dia of the tubing. Heck, maybe they changed it for 2006... I only have the 2005 rule book.
9 is not my lucky number.
Joined: March 12, 2004
Posts: 3,663
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The 2006 IHRA rule book. 1-5/8 is okay for mild steel and chrome moly as long as it meets the specified tubing thickness. See page 3. Sounds like it's Kosher but that bend you have at the bottom behind the seat is still going to get you. I'd try to get that section replaced.
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/banana.gif[/img]