Jmeo

Just before I put my supercharger in a month or so I noticed a cloud of blue/white smoke come from my exhaust when I started my car. It was sitting for about a month so I didn't let it bother me. Well, now it seems to be doing it every time the car sits for 8 hours or so. This is starting to concern me. I am wondering if maybe my piston rings are worn and oil is seeping by them while sitting then the oil burns off at start up. I just switched to Royal Purple oil, I wonder is it's too slick for my engine. Any ideas?

Gtpony325

My friend had this happen to his mustang. It turned out that he dropped a valve seal. Once that happened he started dumping oil in the cyilnder and fried the rings. I cant say for sure if thats the problem you have but there is really only one way to find out

Jmeo

And what's that?

Shotokan1509

Relatively common, especially without cats. Mine reduced when I installed a catchcan.

Gtpony325

The only way that i know of to find out would be to start tearing into your motor

Jmeo

Got a Stef's catch can installed. Think I'll just not worry too much about it for now. Hopefully I can still get 2 more years out of her cuz come then I planned on a forged block anyway.

Think I should switch back to synthetic blend oil or stay with Royal Purple?

Jmeo

Well it's been a while now and the problem has seemed to remedy itself as it no longer blows smoke even after sitting a week or more.

But........ I wanted to see how much oil I have collected in my Stef's can and when I looked there isn't even a hint of oil. What gives? I must have 500 miles or more since installing it. I have read multiple people stating they catch a teaspoon or more after about 200 miles.

I opened the drain petcock and started the car up and get a huge vacuum leak so I know airflow is going through the can. I have the intake going into the side of the can and then it comes out the bottom and continues to the intake of my Whipple. I believe this is correct.

Any input would be much appreciated.

69Mach1-409

I think you have something connected wrong.

You should have the Passenger side cam cover PCV line going into the Black plastic Whipple intake tube port. Then you should have the drivers side cam cover PCV line going into the catch can and the line coming out should goto the port on the Whipple elbow behind the throttle body.

69Mach1-409

Also, if you start a Ford Mod motor up for a short period of time.. like moving her out of the garage.. then shut them down you will likely get a puff of blue smoke on the next start up.

Again, a catchcan or open breathers should eliminate this problem.

godspunk32

Agreed. I freaked out the first time I noticed it, then did some research and found that it was a Mod motor 'feature'. Mine does it only on cold mornings when it's been sitting for a few days. In most cases, it's a little bit of condensation burning off.

JR

Jmeo

Sorry if I didn't describe it in detail but this is exactly how mine is. Passengers side cam cover gets fresh air from the intake tube before the throttle body. From drivers side cam cover into the side of the Stef's catch can and then from the bottom of the can to the intake behind the throttle body.

I am surprised that I have not seen ANY oil accumulate in 500 miles

69Mach1-409

That is really odd.. I always had acouple tsp in mine.

sinisterbullitt

Not that it's the problem but I wouldn't go with royal purple. They're sales reps try to get our shop to buy that crap all the time only thing is they're friction tests make them loom like they're trying to promote mobile..amsoil..etc. royal purple had consistent deep marring an over time eats the seals " in my opinion "

jaguarking11

IMHO anyone who adds agents that evaporate and artificaly increase hp on a car when the oil is brand new and then cook off in short order to make their tests look good is trying to hide something.

Baiscaly royal purple adds some sort of agent into the oil that evaporates once the oil is warm and through the pcv system feeds into the engine, this way if you dyno an a fresh oil change it looks like it picked up hp but as you drive out the shop your back to normal oil. Marketing ploy here. Not very trusting on that.

I prefer other brands. Lathough I used royal purple atf in my trans. Seems fine for now.

sinisterbullitt

I've just had problems with seals going bad on royal purple. I like mobile and amsoil. Plus even if I ordered bulk royal purple for the shop 200+ gallons its 9.75 - 10.50 a quart...yes not much cheaper than a case. Whereas Mobil is 7-8 and gets good reviews all around.

Everett

Royal purple and red-line both contain an amazing anti-friction compound called molybdenum. Google this product or go to the bob is the oil guy forum and search it. It's a great product. AMSOIL is by far my favorite oil tho and I just ad the moly on it's own. Mobil 1 isn't a true synthetic and their ad campaign works obviously. Stay with any of the first 3 I stated as they are a group 4 basestock which is a true synthetic. Mobil 1 starts off as conventional then refined so it meets the loose definition of synthetic. It's the moly in the Rp that helped your smoke on start up. In an industry of snake oil moly actually delivers.

sinisterbullitt

Your right about the mobile 1 its only a certain % synthetic but that's any oil other than amsoil. I just go by how long it stays clean and viscous and amsoil an mobile worked best for me. Never used redline and royal purple turns black after you started it up. What is this molybdenum? Tell me more please

Correct me if I'm wrong but fully synthetic has to be atleast 80% synthetic an just synthetic has to be 45% right? Can't remember what the Rep said. But I do know that if it says fully its still not full synthetic just a higher percentage and just "synthetic " is basically a low grade blend. Kinda messed up how they play you with words huh

Everett

Oh buddy. This stuff was discounted as a viable anti friction about 20 years ago because they couldn't manufacture the particles small enough to not get filtered out immediately by the oil filter. Well the Germans got ahold of it and POW. If you google Lubro-moly or liqui-moly they are both the same thing but different names for Canada and the US. From what I have learned it's a mineral that under heat and pressure actually fills the microscopic inconsistencies of metal parts creating an ultra smooth surface and eliminates metal on metal. The layer is like 2 microns thick but doesn't wear off like Teflon and fall off in chunks. I have a write up on it in the oil section at www.**********

Check it out there and bob is the oil guy forum has a couple pages on it too. It's cheap and it works. I did an experiment with it and documented my results at PETOM. Check it out

Shotokan1509

I run a JLT after seeing drips come out of the factory line. I just checked it the other day, there is an oil film in the canister but not a pool of liquid.. the intake side of the hose was dry though.. so maybe instead of all draining in to the canister, some is going back down the "in" tube?

Jmeo

Actually I now have oil must just have had to take some time to make it down the tube. I have the can mounted right next to my power steering reservoir.