Shifter questions
#1
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Shifter questions
I'm in the market for a new shifter after a rather unfortunate turn of events. After a mountain biking accident last week (avoiding one of those **** rat dogs) I potentially broke my right elbow (doc says the xrays taken are inconclusive so I need to wait 2 weeks for the healing process to make any cracks more visible). Luckily the trouble spot is on the radius, so since its not actually a load-bearing part of the elbow, I don't have to wear a cast, and the doc even says I can drive my car (knowing its a 5 spd). Problem is, the aching and swelling make shifting a seriously uncomfortable, sometimes down right painful task. Its not the front to back motions that kill, its the side to side that cause all the pain. So holding the shifter all the way over for a shift to either 1 or 2 and all the way to the other side to 5 or R (excrutiating to the point I use my left hand) are the trouble-shifts. Last week I carpooled to work but I've got be able to drive my car.
So enough of the background info. Here's my question. What are the lowest effort shifters out there? Short throw is a must (less my arm has to move, the better) and a given for just about any aftermarket shifter. Not looking for anything extreme. What I need the most is a low-tension shifter. Something that requires less effort than stock (which is what I'm running now except for urethane bushings) but since its going to be $300 and I'll be using it even after I'm healed, I need one that will precisely locate the gears, low NVH, and has great feel. Ideally, I'd like the Ford GT shifter. That thing was effortless and felt amazing, but that's obviously not a choice.
I've heard great things about MGW, but what kind of effort is required? Are there any that are better for low effort? Steeda is supposed to be lower effort, but i've also heard bad things about NVH from that offering. Thanks in adavnce
So enough of the background info. Here's my question. What are the lowest effort shifters out there? Short throw is a must (less my arm has to move, the better) and a given for just about any aftermarket shifter. Not looking for anything extreme. What I need the most is a low-tension shifter. Something that requires less effort than stock (which is what I'm running now except for urethane bushings) but since its going to be $300 and I'll be using it even after I'm healed, I need one that will precisely locate the gears, low NVH, and has great feel. Ideally, I'd like the Ford GT shifter. That thing was effortless and felt amazing, but that's obviously not a choice.
I've heard great things about MGW, but what kind of effort is required? Are there any that are better for low effort? Steeda is supposed to be lower effort, but i've also heard bad things about NVH from that offering. Thanks in adavnce
#2
Well if I had to give you a completely honest opinion after using both the B&M , Hurst & Steeda units, the B&M shifter is by far the smoothest and least effort shifter I've had. Short throw and very easy to operate. if I can help you with any more questions send me a PM.
#3
Well, the MGW or any of the billet shifters are going to have strong centering springs which will cause the need for side to side effort when shifting. Like taking the shifter from neutral to reverse will definitely require extra effort. I'd say the shifter that requires the least effort is the stock one. It has no centering springs and the cheap (non-billet) Hurst shifter will have a shorter throw which may cause it to be stiffer than the stock one. The MGW shifter will allow the highest height adjustment which would really help in the leverage area, but still, I say the stocker is your best bet.
#4
Maybe you should consider the MGW because of it's adjustment capabilities?
There is a video that seems to show it is very easy to change. I think they are not putting a load on it but they shift it with a couple fingers.
There is a video that seems to show it is very easy to change. I think they are not putting a load on it but they shift it with a couple fingers.
#5
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Stick with the stock shifter. The shifter pivot ball is riding in nylon. The throw is normal, or long according to some. The bushing are softer rubber which you changed to urethane. The shift **** is leather wrapped. All these things make this shifter smooth shifting with good shock absorbing values.
What shifter am I using after giving the stock shifter good reviews? Hurst. Why? I find when my feet are right for the clutch I'm was always reaching for the stock shifter. The Hurst is 2" closer to me in first gear than the stock shifter. I also believe it's the best looking shifter on the market. It takes little effort to move the shifter side to side however there is increased shifter effort front to back due to the short shift reduction which would probably irritate your arm considerably.
You might try running the urethane bushing in the front and stock rubber bushing in the rear mount of the stock shifter. It might hold the shifter stiffer to the trans while allowing the rear to flex on the body giving you a little more shock absorption. As mentioned previously, some of the performance shifters will have centering springs that will probably irritate your arm.
What shifter am I using after giving the stock shifter good reviews? Hurst. Why? I find when my feet are right for the clutch I'm was always reaching for the stock shifter. The Hurst is 2" closer to me in first gear than the stock shifter. I also believe it's the best looking shifter on the market. It takes little effort to move the shifter side to side however there is increased shifter effort front to back due to the short shift reduction which would probably irritate your arm considerably.
You might try running the urethane bushing in the front and stock rubber bushing in the rear mount of the stock shifter. It might hold the shifter stiffer to the trans while allowing the rear to flex on the body giving you a little more shock absorption. As mentioned previously, some of the performance shifters will have centering springs that will probably irritate your arm.
#6
I would say stick with the OEM shifter.
However, if you just feel you have to make a change.... I would recommend you get the MGW and set the shift throw adjustment to 1 or 2 turns and adjust the shifter handle to the highest position. That adjustment should give you a very smooth operating shifter. Later you can re-adjust the throw length and handle for shorter shifts. If you are going to spend money, you might as well get the best there is, at this time... IMO.
Sorry about the elbow, hope the dog was OK too.
Bobby M.
However, if you just feel you have to make a change.... I would recommend you get the MGW and set the shift throw adjustment to 1 or 2 turns and adjust the shifter handle to the highest position. That adjustment should give you a very smooth operating shifter. Later you can re-adjust the throw length and handle for shorter shifts. If you are going to spend money, you might as well get the best there is, at this time... IMO.
Sorry about the elbow, hope the dog was OK too.
Bobby M.
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I would say stick with the OEM shifter.
However, if you just feel you have to make a change.... I would recommend you get the MGW and set the shift throw adjustment to 1 or 2 turns and adjust the shifter handle to the highest position. That adjustment should give you a very smooth operating shifter. Later you can re-adjust the throw length and handle for shorter shifts. If you are going to spend money, you might as well get the best there is, at this time... IMO.
Sorry about the elbow, hope the dog was OK too.
Bobby M.
However, if you just feel you have to make a change.... I would recommend you get the MGW and set the shift throw adjustment to 1 or 2 turns and adjust the shifter handle to the highest position. That adjustment should give you a very smooth operating shifter. Later you can re-adjust the throw length and handle for shorter shifts. If you are going to spend money, you might as well get the best there is, at this time... IMO.
Sorry about the elbow, hope the dog was OK too.
Bobby M.
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Thanks all for the quick responses. Per the overwhelming majority, I decided to stay stock for a while longer. I tried to switch the urethan bushing back to the soft stock one, but I couldn't get enough leverage to bend the tab up again. That **** driveshaft safety loop got in the way. I'm not sure when or IF i'm going to get an aftermarket shifter, just because of how little room I have to work with without dropping the aluminum driveshaft.
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I hope you have a fast recovery. This makes me wonder about going to all manual cars... I may continue keeping one manual and one automatic vehicle just for situations like this.
#11
Well, if you do decide to switch shifters, I would suggest contacting George at MGW. Knowing that early on in production, they were working thru various centering springs for different tensions, he MAY be able to hook you up with a shifter with weaker centering springs. That, combined with adjusting the shifter to the higher, longer throw may solve the issue....
Just a thought,
Mike
Sorry about the injury...
Just a thought,
Mike
Sorry about the injury...
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The arms getting a lot better a lot quicker than expected, looks like theres no immediate need for a new shifter. Looks like an MGW may be in the future. Thanks Mike, I'll definitely talk to George about it when I eventually start looking at it again.
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Seems like a catch 22. The longer the throw, the more leverage and less effort. But the shorter throw provides less range of motion but more effort.
Good luck on what you decide.
Good luck on what you decide.
#15
I had to call a friend with an automatic car to come get mine.
That definitely is the down side of a stick shift car.
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