Shift Light
7/28/05, 01:48 PM
#21
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by 169stang@July 26, 2005, 5:47 PM
It's amazing that you have given them info that they didn't know already. This tells me that either they just haven't put any effort into making their product work or you are much more knowledgable then them.
It's amazing that you have given them info that they didn't know already. This tells me that either they just haven't put any effort into making their product work or you are much more knowledgable then them.
Yeah I wasnt really happy to hear they didnt have all that info.As for knowing more then them lets hope not
I sent Autometer that pinout but havent heard back from them yet. Over all I think this is going to be pretty easy...I think the key is identifying the correct wire for the CTO signal. I've been busy doing other stuff getting ready for a car show on saturday I'm hoping to get back to this right after....maybe even work on it a little bit tomorrow night.
8/4/05, 10:28 PM
#23
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not yet, Funny how I heard right back from Autometer then nothing when I asked some specific info.
Should thought they would have figured this out by now.....
Should thought they would have figured this out by now.....
8/5/05, 07:06 AM
#25
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Steve, I have talked with just about every major Performance shop across the U.S. The very reputable shops say they haven't figured it out yet. The other's give you the same response as to how the "think" it would work. Most will say that you can get the tach signal from the coil packs. I've tried this a number of ways and can't get it.
8/7/05, 07:13 PM
#26
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
David,
I have great news my friend....I found out how to wire the shift light.
PM me and I will give you directions. I can't believe AutoMeter didn't know how to wire this.
I will post complete directions after I recieve my parts on tuesday.
I have great news my friend....I found out how to wire the shift light.
PM me and I will give you directions. I can't believe AutoMeter didn't know how to wire this.
I will post complete directions after I recieve my parts on tuesday.
8/9/05, 09:17 PM
#27
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
here are the directions for wiring a shift light.
Ok here are the installation instructions for the shift light install.
Items needed:
1) Shift light
2) 9117 Tach adapter (AutoMeter part number)
3) 5310 RPM module (AutoMeter part number)
BEC (bussed electrical center)
1. Remove battery cable from battery.
2. Remove cover on BEC (fuse box in engine compartment)
3. Remove top unit from BEC and tilt toward fender. (see picture below)
[attachmentid=30139]
Unscrew last bolt: (Red Highlight)
[attachmentid=30140]
When that is undone you will have the block out of the BEC it will look like this after you remove it; remove the green bottom cover.
[attachmentid=30141]
You are looking for the two red wires in the block highlighted in red :NOTE make sure you use the two highlighted in red there are two other red wires (they run to the fuel pump DON’T cut those wires) I traced these wires to halfway between the BEC and the engine harness and cut them See next picture
[attachmentid=30142]
Continued on next post
Ok here are the installation instructions for the shift light install.
Items needed:
1) Shift light
2) 9117 Tach adapter (AutoMeter part number)
3) 5310 RPM module (AutoMeter part number)
BEC (bussed electrical center)
1. Remove battery cable from battery.
2. Remove cover on BEC (fuse box in engine compartment)
3. Remove top unit from BEC and tilt toward fender. (see picture below)
[attachmentid=30139]
Unscrew last bolt: (Red Highlight)
[attachmentid=30140]
When that is undone you will have the block out of the BEC it will look like this after you remove it; remove the green bottom cover.
[attachmentid=30141]
You are looking for the two red wires in the block highlighted in red :NOTE make sure you use the two highlighted in red there are two other red wires (they run to the fuel pump DON’T cut those wires) I traced these wires to halfway between the BEC and the engine harness and cut them See next picture
[attachmentid=30142]
Continued on next post
8/9/05, 09:19 PM
#28
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cut both red wires and splice together the pair (from BEC), Hook up red wire from 9117 Tach adapter to this splice (red highlight)
[attachmentid=30143]
The other two wires running from the harness splice together and wire red/green wire from 9117 tach adapter (Yellow highlight).
Black wire goes to ground on Tach adapter
Gray wire (from tach adapter 9117) goes to green wire (on RPM module 5310).
Black wire from 5310 to ground
Red wire to a switched circuit.
Test.
Hope this helps let me know how it works out for you....
Gordon
[attachmentid=30143]
The other two wires running from the harness splice together and wire red/green wire from 9117 tach adapter (Yellow highlight).
Black wire goes to ground on Tach adapter
Gray wire (from tach adapter 9117) goes to green wire (on RPM module 5310).
Black wire from 5310 to ground
Red wire to a switched circuit.
Test.
Hope this helps let me know how it works out for you....
Gordon
8/10/05, 12:13 AM
#30
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this worked perfect for me. It took me about an hour and I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electrical-especially in vehicles. Very simple. A short version of Gordon's instructions...Follow Autometer's instructions except the red wire coming from the tach adapter splices into the two wires coming from the BEC as he mentioned. The other side of the two cut wires gets spliced to the red/green wire coming from the tach adapter. I don't know how he figured it out, but it works perfect. Light will come on upon startup and lights up at 3000 (currently have a 3000 rpm pill in). I'll be switching it to a 6400 rpm pill.
With my electrical mentality, I just look at like the tach adapter is spliced into the two red wires, except red wire on the BEC side, red/green on the other.
This is a pic of the rpm module and tach adapter mounted under the dash and between the hood release and firewall. I mounted it here to have easy access to the module. I want to be able to change out the rpm pill easily.
[attachmentid=30148]
With my electrical mentality, I just look at like the tach adapter is spliced into the two red wires, except red wire on the BEC side, red/green on the other.
This is a pic of the rpm module and tach adapter mounted under the dash and between the hood release and firewall. I mounted it here to have easy access to the module. I want to be able to change out the rpm pill easily.
[attachmentid=30148]
8/10/05, 12:29 AM
#32
GT Member
Join Date: February 19, 2004
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by 169stang@August 10, 2005, 12:16 AM
this worked perfect for me. It took me about an hour and I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electrical-especially in vehicles. Very simple. A short version of Gordon's instructions...Follow Autometer's instructions except the red wire coming from the tach adapter splices into the two wires coming from the BEC as he mentioned. The other side of the two cut wires gets spliced to the red/green wire coming from the tach adapter. I don't know how he figured it out, but it works perfect. Light will come on upon startup and lights up at 3000 (currently have a 3000 rpm pill in). I'll be switching it to a 6400 rpm pill.
With my electrical mentality, I just look at like the tach adapter is spliced into the two red wires, except red wire on the BEC side, red/green on the other.
this worked perfect for me. It took me about an hour and I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electrical-especially in vehicles. Very simple. A short version of Gordon's instructions...Follow Autometer's instructions except the red wire coming from the tach adapter splices into the two wires coming from the BEC as he mentioned. The other side of the two cut wires gets spliced to the red/green wire coming from the tach adapter. I don't know how he figured it out, but it works perfect. Light will come on upon startup and lights up at 3000 (currently have a 3000 rpm pill in). I'll be switching it to a 6400 rpm pill.
With my electrical mentality, I just look at like the tach adapter is spliced into the two red wires, except red wire on the BEC side, red/green on the other.
David,...any possiblilty of you adding pics or video? Also, you said shift lights comes on at 3000 rpm. hows does the light flash, is it random, or solid?
8/10/05, 12:36 AM
#33
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just edited my post with one pic of where I mounted the parts. I didn't even think about taking video of the installation. There are different rpm pills you can put in the module. They typically have a 3000 rpm pill installed. If you keep the rev's at 3000 rpm steady, the light will stay steady. I haven't tried revving past 3000 rpm yet. Don't want to wake the neighbors. It will either flash at your specified rpm or stay on beyond. I'll let you know tomorrow.
8/10/05, 10:29 AM
#34
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
David Glad it worked for you as well!!! FINALLY we have shift lights!
I'm going to try and finish mine up tonight (now that I know everything works I'm going to run all the wires through the firewall).
I'm going to try and finish mine up tonight (now that I know everything works I'm going to run all the wires through the firewall).
8/10/05, 11:00 AM
#35
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you jack up the front driver's side, you'll see the inside of the wheel well has 4 push tabs that keep the inner fender in place. The push tabs have a phillips head slot that you 1/4 turn and then you can pull the push pin out. Inside there, you'll see a fairly large grommet. That is where I ran the wires into the firewall. You can see this grommet inside the car just left of the clutch. This is also where I ran my line lock wires into the cabin. Much easier removing the inner wheel well.
8/10/05, 11:04 AM
#36
Join Date: July 12, 2004
Posts: 2,260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[attachmentid=30179]Here's that fender.
8/10/05, 12:12 PM
#39
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Austincobra@August 10, 2005, 11:29 AM
Just a quick question. I have another brand of Shift light. Do I still need the tach adapter? What does the Tach adapter do? Great job on figuring this out. We are all in your debt
Just a quick question. I have another brand of Shift light. Do I still need the tach adapter? What does the Tach adapter do? Great job on figuring this out. We are all in your debt
I can't answer your question regarding the other brand of shift light, I would say the best course of action would be to talk to them and find out what parts are necessary to make a shift light work on an 04 mustang, then wire the + coil side as noted in our install instructions.