I used a lubricant called Krytox. I'm not sure where you can pick up a tube, my friend let me borrow some.

Not sure about the locking nut and Loc-Tite compatibility issue (if there even is one ).

 

I didn't try the locking nut, I just followed Bill's directions and used the Loc-Tite. As for lubricant I used lithium grease. I have had great luck with it in the past.

 

Bill, any chance of reposting your video??...it doesn't seem to exist anymore.

Seems like a pretty cool mod. My only gripe with the stock setup is the notchiness. The worst is when I try to shift back into first after coming to a stop. Going into gears 2 - 5 aren't bad at all.

Thanks.

 

Fixed! See post #1 again to see the video.

The Saleen kit still has a notchy/mechanical feeling when shifting. All gears (except for 4th) go into its shifting gate easily, 4th seems a little stubborn sometimes.

 

I installed my Saleen today. It took roughly 1 hour from start to clean up, plus some fixing an exhaust rattle. My hands were having a hard time up in that small area. Also, the shift rod didn't go into the Saleen unit very easily. I really had to lube it up with lithium grease and use some muscle. I got it far enough in and used the nut to bring it all the way through. I tighten it until it was really tight and then backed the nut off about 1/3 turn. I took the car for a quick ride and the throws are MUCH shorter, but also a bit notchier. It does take a bit more effort to get it in and out of gear, but nothing to rough. I took the car for a ride down the block and it is now sitting for a few hours to let the loctite dry. Will post further impressions later.

FYI...I know that it was mentioned to let the loctite dry, but here is some info on the process:

Loctite Threadlocking products show evidence of cure within 15-20 minutes and can resist vibration within an hour. Loctite speedbonders generally have a 20% cure within a few minutes, and 80% cure within 2 hours

 

This looks to be a very cost effective upgrade, but after reading about some of the compormises some drivers are living with, I have to wonder what is going on at the other end of the shifter rod where it meets the transmission? The shifter end is now lower at the shifter and so is the angle where that rod meets the transmission.

 

I'm guessing that it's okay. Saleen has been using this type of 'leverage block' for years. I had one on my 90 GT way back when, and it was problem free after 90k miles of shifting (then I sold it).

Like I mentioned before, this isn't a perfect short throw shifter (get a Hurst or Tri-Ax for that), but for $50 it's pretty good.

 

That's a very good point that had not occured to me. I had been generally satisfied with my SSR in street driving. The throw is certainly shorter, just about ideal. But yesterday I ran my first track event with this car at Buttonwillow in central California. Everything worked fine, even the stock brakes which hauled me down from 125mph without fade or drama. However the shifter was a POS. Downshifting from 4th to 3rd was literally impossible about half the time. Several times I found myself coasting through turns with the clutch in until I was going slow enough to grab 2nd gear because I couldn't find 3rd. I finally decided to call it a day before my last session, not wanting to become a casualty after seeing several cars demolished, including a C5 Vette and a WRX. In any case I think you may be on to something with your rod angle theory.

 

Interesting.. 4th gear is my issue. I can find 3rd a 100 percent of the time.

From reading older posts (like from early this year or last), shifting accuracy points to how (over)tight that nut is on the linkage stud. I'm wondering if backing off that nut an additional 1/8 to a 1/4 turn is the answer... for me.

 

Wouldn't all shifters achieve a shorter throw in the same way, ie. by changing the pivot ratio? It seems to me that the shift lever is just that, a lever. The only way to "quicken" the action is to increase the length below the fulcrum, which is what Saleen does, or decrease the length above the fulcrum which I don't know if anybody does since the stock stick is already pretty short. Am I missing something?

 

Very good point. I was wandering, what do all of the name brand shifters offer that this thing doesn't?

 

Somebody just paid $90.00 on ebay for one of these!

See the auction here

 

A moment of silence, please.

 

Mine is still in the box, humm.....

 

This is a great write up, but how do you un-install one?

I am looking at the Sydershaft and have read that this adaptor interfers with the driveshaft. So I need to remove my adaptor and get a different short throw shifter I guess. But I have never worked with removing red threadlock before. So before I get startered in removing anything, can someone offer some good tips on removing this block that is attached with red threadlock?

 

If you have a small propane torch that will breakdown the locktight, but you will have to remove the shift linkage and plastic sleeves first or you will melt them. Other wise it will just be brute force to get it off.

 

How does this mod work out with lowered cars? FRPP springs lower a car 1.5 inches. I guess that means the body is now 1.5 inches closer to the drive shaft. Is there still room for this part?

 

Yep--plenty of room. I ran mine for two years with the Eibach Prokit springs (same springs as the FRPP springs) without a problem before I bought the MGW shifter. PM me if you want to buy it. I still have it sitting on my workbench...

 

No problem. I was running the Steeda Ultralites at the time.

 

Thanks once again Tacobill for this "How to!" I just installed my saleen short shifter block, using your directions and it works great! I may have tightened the nut harder then you did, but I haven't noticed it being too notchy or tough to shift. The only problem I encountered was being able to get my hands/arms in between the exhaust and over the driveshaft to complete project. It was just a slight hassle. I didn't use a ton of loctite so hopefully the bolt and nut will stay put.

The shifter block DEFINITELY shortens the throw of the shifter. For the money (I paid $35 on ebay) I am giving this an A+.