JRay05stang

I have been wondering for awhile and I figured this may make an interesting topic for discussion...

What would you consider to be some of the rules applied to supercharging and turbo charging your mustang? Like how differently does the car need to be driven with them? What kinda extra maintaining do they require? And any other tid bits of information that may be useful. I am planning on supercharging or turbo charging as soon as warranty runs out on my car and any info will be valuable.

Also list some pros and cons of supercharging vs. turbo charging?

Thanks alot!
Justin

Rebel73

I'm sure someone will jump in soon and tell you to do a search, bla bla bla, but here's my two bits.

Twin screw superchargers are usually "self-contained" and require an oil change every 20k or so. Centrifugal ones normally tap into the oil pan. SCs have more instant boost because they are belt-driven, as opposed to turbos, which are exhaust gas driven and tend to take longer to build boost. This is known as "turbo lag". However, there is no denying the big high-end potential that turbos have.

Superchargers are usually much simpler to install and require much less plumbing than turbos. However, turbos don't require power to make power like SCs do, so they are usually more efficient.

For a mostly street car that will see occasional track duty, my vote is for a Twin Screw SC. You get the low-down and mid-range grunt that is most useable on a street car, but you are going to get differing opinions.

wsmatau

Do a SEARCH!!!!.....Blah, blah, blah

Glenn

turbo's make more hp than s/c using the same boost.

KenB

I think one of the most overlooked factors in adding a power adder is the suspension mods you should consider. The factory suspension isn't intended to handle the type of power you get with any of these setups and I recommend taking a good look at your suspension.


I prefer either a twin screw or turbo for a street car. I'm putting a Whipple on mine.

Ken

JRay05stang

I guess my main question truthfully is what kind of added regular maintaining the car requires with either turbo or supercharger. I have searched and searched on both and basically decided on the whipple or a turbo dunno what turbo if I go that route. Just not alot mentioned in any of the post about maintaining the car once the mod is done. Thanks!

tom281

If you're gonna go Whipple, then contact Whipple and ask them..... there is no additional maintenance or upkeep really my Vortech system so I can't help you. Good luck, whichever you choose.

ramairgt1

The only required maintanence with the whipple is to change the oil in the blower itself every 20-30k miles

officespace56

how does the blower oil change process go? do you have to remove the sc?

ramairgt1

The whipple comes with instructions
I have no idea how its changed without looking it up

Rebel73

the whipple actually comes with a reservoir that resembles a regular oil fill...piece o' cake. You do NOT have to remove the blower...what a PITA that would be!

Bullitt995

Don't boost in 5th gear. Putting the motor under that kind of load for that long is not a good idea.

SuperSugeKnight

Wideband Air/Fuel gauge is a must. Also, make sure your battery and alternator is in good working order. I've seen several engines go pop because of that.

SuperSugeKnight

And if you have an auto turn O/D off. My homeboys '02 GT with an Allen Supercharger went boom when it shifted into overdrive at WOT.

martin fink

Which one turbo or roots blower will give a more even power band as not to kick you in the pants all of a sudden .So to feel like you just have a bigger motor. Thanks

KenB

It all depends on the turbo kit when evaluating turbo setups.

Generally, I think a twin screw gives you more of that feel although a properly designed turbo kit can come close.

Roots and Twin Screws are not the same but you get the same feel out of the Roots also. They are quite different in how they work though.

Mongoose

Research for about a year and read everything you can get your hands on..TheTurbo forums are a great place to learn about them. You need to have a plan as to the final outcome and what your goals are. The car has to be built around the power you want to make and this can add up to $$ fast. Do you want the power out of the hole or in the upper areas. I wanted it out of the hole and chose a 66 Hellion turbo. If I were to go to a SC it would be a Whipple with intercooler. If your plans are for over 500 hp consider a short block from someone like Larry Hays to stay on the safe side. He says Hammer IT all the way up to 900hp.
.He builds Ron proof motors and that in its self is a Statement..Thje lead time is months and it is OK to pay him up front. Tell him Bill sent YA. His location is northwesr Arkansas. He will send you a contract.
Go to a dependable shop with a dyno that has been in the loop with power adders and has a clue what they are doing. Put everything in writing and signed by you and them as to cost and time required. This is a binding contract. If it ain't on the paper it is not going to be delivered or paid for. NO Verbal stuff. Do not pay more than 50% up front and no final payment until you do a test drive and sign off on the job. Hot Rod shops are notorious for wanting huge up front payments and not being responsible for their workmanship.
Pay by CC or check. No cash dealing! You need a record of payment.