stkdidy

I apologize for the long read, but your time would be EXTREMELY HELPFUL. PM me for any and all reasons you want.

OK, so i've had more or less my current setup since August, and i think its about time to throw some more crap on the stang if i want to be low 12s this summer.
Keep in mind my goals:
1)run ~12.30 in the 1/4
2)stiffen up the car/suspension slightly
3)gain 30-40rwhp, 20-30rwtq
4)retain stock appearance AMAP, at least whilel not at the track
5)keep price reasonable by only getting parts the serve these purposes

Here is my list:
1 5/8" LT headers
O/R h-pipe
Electric water pump
LCA relocation brackets
Hurst shifter
TBS
Line locks
drag wheels (slicks and skinnies), or drag radial tires
BMR tubular Kmember

essentially im lookin at 2500 for all parts if i get them, plus install, but i may decide against some in lieu of others. It would be nice to cut parts cost down to just 1700-1800 tho.

now for your input:
-headers: I am firmly set on 1 5/8 instead of 1 3/4 unless someone can convince me otherwise. I like to have a slight bit of backpressure to keep torque numbers up, and try to reduce trumpeting. I know many with good experience with JBA, which are only 600 on rpmoutlet! WHAT THE HECK is the "functional" difference between the stainless headers and the ceramic coated headers??

-hpipe: JBA has one that is direct fit to their LTs for 200$, and it is very tempting. I have heard many bad experiences (with exhaust sound/drone/trumpet) with x-pipes, and i would like to decrease noise compared to xpipes a little bit considering ill essentially just have straight pipes going. I am going to KEEP my stock mufflers, regardless of how much people will flame me for it, because it will reduce cost from axlebacks, reduce noise (i want exhaust for performance, and to slightly deepen/louden noise, not to just sound rediculous), and keep that stock "sleeper" appearance i have now. How would an x-pipe possibly be better?

-eh20: i am ashamed of myself for missing the group buy on the meziere eh20...anyone know if the price will still be honored (i think it was 305 for pump AND relay IIRC)? How necessary is the "optional" relay kit? if it is nec, why cant i just go buy a 30amp relay at radioshack for 5$ instead of spending 30+$? I will reread that long thread about them for belt length specs and wiring instructions, but input here would be awesome.

-LCA brackets: Since my car is dropped 2.5", these are just mandatory for improving traction, period. Any downsides to the weld-in ones? Any downsides except price for the bolt-in ones? Id rather install them myself, and if there are few or no negatives to boltins then i think ill fork over the extra 30$ for those instead of pay install fees to weld...plus i can always weld the boltin bracket in the future, right?

-Hurst: The more i drive my stang, the more the shifter feels sloppy...and it is an attractive prospect to be able to powershift even quicker at the track. install seems easy, considering i have plenty of access to lifts, tho only a jack is mandatory. I am heartset on keeping the stock ball...mostly because a chrome stick and white ball would like like S**T in my black and yellow color scheme, but also to retain that stock "sleeper" look as mentioned. Also, it is the cheapest shifter ive found (149@rpmoutlet!!). How bad and how often are these complaints of "rattling" that i have stumbled across? my car is stiff as all heck and makes plenty of noise so a relatively minor sound is def not gonna turn me away, but a loud or violent vibration might...input?

-TBS: Ok, so i have a throttle body already and saw great gains from it (11rwhp/13.7rwtq). first, will a tbs gain any more hp? second, will it even work right considering my throttle body openings are 7mm wider diameter than stock and the Jet TBS is designed for stock size? its only 100bucks! but that could be 100$ towards other stuff or installation if its only gonna net me like 2hp. experiences?

-line locks: Frankly i dont need these, but it would be awesome to have them. Im thinking save my cash and just deal with 2seconds of rubbing rear brakes each time i do a run at the track, which only happens every once in a while anyway.

-drag wheels/tires: I would love to put some skinnies up front to lessen overall weight of the car. What do 5" wheels and 165mm tires run for a set of two? Could i just use two freaking spare tires, regardless of ghetto-ness (would be cheap at least)? MT ET streets 275mm 17in tires run like 200 correct? They fit the stock 17x8 rim if its just for straight-line use, right? How much would a set of 15/16in by 11in wheels with street radial or drag tires cost? Essentially this question is whether to get slicks and skinnies, or just get MT ET streets. I will be getting Foose Nitrous 20x8.5 and 20x10s shortly, so the stock rims wont be in use anyway. I am looking to pull 1.7s 60' times, NOTHING FASTER, as i wish to retain my stock clutch and not break my rear end...again...too soon.

-Kmember: What all does an aftermarket Kmember DO? First, I know it drops 20lbs off the front end, which would be AMAZING considering my full intentions to autocross this car after coilovers and some other work in the future...helping to correct that 53/47 weight dist would kick hiney, and 20lbs is like taking another spare tire out at the track too. second, it is stiffer than the stock assembly, but how does that improve performance directly? This is not something like the radiator support/front sway delete that is primarily for drag racing, is it? If it does what i want it to, i might get it and a-arm support to get the front lighter and tighter. Input?



Thanks for your valuable time, i hope i didn't bore you,
Geoff

max2000jp

Quick question: Why not just get some Comp cams, custom tune, and DR's and you should be at your goal or better?

stkdidy

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(max2000jp @ March 11, 2006, 2:00 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Quick question: Why not just get some Comp cams, custom tune, and DR's and you should be at your goal or better?
[/b][/quote]
My ultimate goal is 400rwhp/400rwtq (possible on a mustang dyno?? i think so) WITH said Comp cams, and also p/p heads. basically im looking for the performance of a SC with 5-7lbs of boost, but for cheaper and sounding better (cams [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/drool.gif[/img] )...and not nitrous. Cams are not on the immediate list for a few reasons:
1)they are an enormous hit to the pocket all at once (1050 from Doug, plus 500 to install plus more to tune).
2)they have not been out long and i fully intend to go with aggressive ones, so i would rather wait and let others try them first, then judge my next step off their experiences.
3)touching engine internals is NOT anywhere on my priority list until the car is at least out of warranty (5000miles left to go on that, so probly mid summer)...tho a lot of parts dont anyway, most major functional elements (engine, tranny, brakes, accessories like steering radio a/c and alt, etc) are still covered
4)not really a good reason, but how cool will it be to run low 12s (aka <12.50) and be able to say i just have boltons? my 12.97 and low 13runs did wonders for the new mustang image back home last summer.

remember, this WHOLE list doesn't come at the exact same time. it will be broken up into spurts of purchases, but all that are found to be worthwhile mods will find their way on by mid summer.

max2000jp

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(stkdidy @ March 11, 2006, 4:15 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
My ultimate goal is 400rwhp/400rwtq (possible on a mustang dyno?? i think so) WITH said Comp cams, and also p/p heads. basically im looking for the performance of a SC with 5-7lbs of boost, but for cheaper and sounding better (cams [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/drool.gif[/img] )...and not nitrous. Cams are not on the immediate list for a few reasons:
1)they are an enormous hit to the pocket all at once (1050 from Doug, plus 500 to install plus more to tune).
2)they have not been out long and i fully intend to go with aggressive ones, so i would rather wait and let others try them first, then judge my next step off their experiences.
3)touching engine internals is NOT anywhere on my priority list until the car is at least out of warranty (5000miles left to go on that, so probly mid summer)...tho a lot of parts dont anyway, most major functional elements (engine, tranny, brakes, accessories like steering radio a/c and alt, etc) are still covered
4)not really a good reason, but how cool will it be to run low 12s (aka <12.50) and be able to say i just have boltons? my 12.97 and low 13runs did wonders for the new mustang image back home last summer.

remember, this WHOLE list doesn't come at the exact same time. it will be broken up into spurts of purchases, but all that are found to be worthwhile mods will find their way on by mid summer.
[/b][/quote]

I like your logic, but I'd rather just save up for a big mod such as cams that will offer a fairly large power gain. Plus cams sound most awesome!! I think I can reach 12.50 or better right now with the addition of lower control arms, DRs, 4.10s, and Aluminum driveshaft. Then throw in a cam and hopefully that should bring me close to high 11s N/A.

I've also got a question that pertains to the topic. Maybe someone can help me out: How much power will I gain going to Hooker Headers and the Hooker X-pipe versus my Off-road x-pipe bolted to the stock manifolds? Is it worth changing?

davids2toys

OK, I would definately skip the TBS..that thing will not get you down the track any quicker,,,al it will do is lighten up you wallet 100.00 and add about 12 ozs of weight to you front end [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrinjester.gif[/img]

stkdidy

bump

if for nothing else, there are LOTS of questions here that im sure others are wondering also