I have looked at the lower control arms and it appears the installation of new arms is as easy as removing a few bolts and putting the new ones in, is this the case? Or is there anything special I need to watch out for when doing this install.

Thanks in advance!

 

As long as they are the non adjustable type. If you get the adjustable type, make it the same size as the stock one unless your gonna change the angle of your rear-end. Boss Hogg put some adjustable ones on.

 

There is a brake line that goes through the stock ones. Basically, either unhook the brake line and then bleed the whole system, or cut through the control arms. Then they just bolt right up. That is my opinion, but what did anyone else do?

-Andy

 

NO! Do not cut the stock arm. That is an emergency brake cable running through the stock control arm. It is very easy to unclip at the brake and feed back through the stock arm. The arms really are very easy to replace.

The Boss Hog

 

I'm going to be getting a set of the non-adjustable BMR LCA's at either FFW or NMRA in a few weeks. I previously installed LCA's on my 96 GT and it wasn't too bad, and they do appear simpler to install on the 05 since you don't have to mess with the springs. But I'm wondering if the bolts shouldn't be fully tightened unless the suspension is loaded. Can someone who's done it please enlighten us?

 

Yes, you must load the suspension prior to tightening the bolts. I did that by having the front wheels on blocks and the rear wheels on jack stands under the axle.
Go for it You will find they are much easier to do than you might think.

The Boss Hog

 

Ok, so just unclip the cable at the brake. Does the car need to be up on jack stands, or the wheels removed? Or can I just reach under the car and loosen the bolts and remove the arms. What about rhino ramps, can the car be elevated on ramps? Or will that screw up the alignment of the arms.

 

Cut the brake lines? Uh-NO! There is a little retainer clip that keeps the e-Brake cable in place. The cable hooks on to the brakes similiar (if anyone remembers) to how the cable would hook on to the handle of brakes on a bicycle. VERY SIMPLE! I did mine on a car/chassis lift. I did have to have a friend of mine push the tires forward about 1" when putting the bolts back in. Do one side at a time. The instructions that came with the Steeda billet set states that the tires should be on the ground when changing the control arms. I opted for the work room and utilized my friend for the push. The whole exchange took me about 20 minutes-that is having all the tools ready. I think I used an 18MM socket and torqued to about 90 ft/lbs. Other than that, you may need needle-nose pliers to grab the retainer clip. Much easier than it looks!

 

Or you can put a second pair of jackstands under the front a-arms. You want the car elevated of course so you can get under it, but the weight of the car needs to be as if it were on the ground so the suspension is fully loaded. Thanks Boss!

 

What is the idea of having the suspension loaded? Is that just to keep the holes in alignment? I know my tires were suspended and it only required pushing them forward an inch. I also know that not everyone has access to a car lift.

 

I backed my car on some rhino type ramps and followed the directions Steeda provided. Was a simple install, and really helped out alot with whell hop.

 

do one side at a time, and read the instructions

very very easy install, takes about half the time to do those as it does on a fox

 

Sounds good. What kind of grease/lubricant did you guys use to keep them from squeaking?

 

White lithium or marine grease - something with staying power B)