Question about oil...
2/15/07, 03:03 PM
#41
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My turn to chime in! 
Like OKC said, the key is to regularly change your oil to Ford's service guidlines.
No matter if your preference is Motocraft, Mobil 1, or Royal Purple, I highly doubt you'll see one oil brand better than the other as far as preventing abnormal wear on an engine over a given span, assuming regular oil changes have been adhered to.
As far as when to switch over to synthetic, you can do so from the get go. If the assumption is that a new engine will never break-in if you switch to synthetic too early, that means that Corvettes, Vipers, and all Porsches will never break-in as they are all factory filled with Mobil 1.
I've been taught in Aviation Powerplant school that piston rings seat (break-in) within the first 5 minutes of engine life; cam to rocker mating a tad longer.
Point is, there are some who peel rubber out from the Dealership when new and some who baby it for the first few months... it doesn't matter, the factory already broke-in your engine, so by the time you get it, it's good to go!
Like OKC said, the key is to regularly change your oil to Ford's service guidlines.
No matter if your preference is Motocraft, Mobil 1, or Royal Purple, I highly doubt you'll see one oil brand better than the other as far as preventing abnormal wear on an engine over a given span, assuming regular oil changes have been adhered to.
As far as when to switch over to synthetic, you can do so from the get go. If the assumption is that a new engine will never break-in if you switch to synthetic too early, that means that Corvettes, Vipers, and all Porsches will never break-in as they are all factory filled with Mobil 1.
I've been taught in Aviation Powerplant school that piston rings seat (break-in) within the first 5 minutes of engine life; cam to rocker mating a tad longer.
Point is, there are some who peel rubber out from the Dealership when new and some who baby it for the first few months... it doesn't matter, the factory already broke-in your engine, so by the time you get it, it's good to go!
Mobil 1 in my honda at 250 miles.
2/15/07, 03:14 PM
#44
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From everything we've learned here, synthetic is not good for break in because it's too slippery for the rings. Plasmamoly rings and chromoly rings seat almost immediately, but you have to remember every motor is different on break-in times. On pushrod motors especially you want to use conventional oils during breakin periods. It's not just "any motor seats immediately and can use synthetic". The automakers know that from the factory they're going to assemble with synthetic, so they use plasma or chromoly rings. Modular or roller motors aren't built like your standard SBC or SBF or even big blocks for that matter.
In the modular motors, the rings do seat quickly, so there is no problem running synthetic from the get-go. Using the right synthetic oil is almost as important.
Call a local machine shop, they'll confirm all of that. The type of oil depends on what kind of rings, bearings and seals that are being used.
CR
Tillman Speed
In the modular motors, the rings do seat quickly, so there is no problem running synthetic from the get-go. Using the right synthetic oil is almost as important.
Call a local machine shop, they'll confirm all of that. The type of oil depends on what kind of rings, bearings and seals that are being used.
CR
Tillman Speed
2/15/07, 03:19 PM
#45
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My turn to chime in!
Like OKC said, the key is to regularly change your oil to Ford's service guidlines.
No matter if your preference is Motocraft, Mobil 1, or Royal Purple, I highly doubt you'll see one oil brand better than the other as far as preventing abnormal wear on an engine over a given span, assuming regular oil changes have been adhered to.
As far as when to switch over to synthetic, you can do so from the get go. If the assumption is that a new engine will never break-in if you switch to synthetic too early, that means that Corvettes, Vipers, and all Porsches will never break-in as they are all factory filled with Mobil 1.
I've been taught in Aviation Powerplant school that piston rings seat (break-in) within the first 5 minutes of engine life; cam to rocker mating a tad longer.
Point is, there are some who peel rubber out from the Dealership when new and some who baby it for the first few months... it doesn't matter, the factory already broke-in your engine, so by the time you get it, it's good to go!
Like OKC said, the key is to regularly change your oil to Ford's service guidlines.
No matter if your preference is Motocraft, Mobil 1, or Royal Purple, I highly doubt you'll see one oil brand better than the other as far as preventing abnormal wear on an engine over a given span, assuming regular oil changes have been adhered to.
As far as when to switch over to synthetic, you can do so from the get go. If the assumption is that a new engine will never break-in if you switch to synthetic too early, that means that Corvettes, Vipers, and all Porsches will never break-in as they are all factory filled with Mobil 1.
I've been taught in Aviation Powerplant school that piston rings seat (break-in) within the first 5 minutes of engine life; cam to rocker mating a tad longer.
Point is, there are some who peel rubber out from the Dealership when new and some who baby it for the first few months... it doesn't matter, the factory already broke-in your engine, so by the time you get it, it's good to go!
Our products, as printed on the bottles, say " Not for break-in of engines - allow 3000 miles."
Obviously, I'm talking about Redline Synthetic Oils.
TDS
2/15/07, 04:39 PM
#46
... Except for these facts: I switched over to Mobil 1 at around 500 miles. My next change will come this December. My car runs like a banshee!
2/15/07, 08:28 PM
#48
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Very confusing isn't it
Different oil manufactures use different base stocks for synthetics, Redline
uses Ester base stocks, extremely slick stuff.
It would not allow piston rings to seat to the cylinder walls.
Bottom line, Dino or Synthetic, the choice is the pocket book.
Just change both oils at reccomended intervals, include a new filter and
and you can't go wrong.
TDS
2/15/07, 08:32 PM
#49
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That's why the warning is on the bottle...
Like I said, on these motors, being that they do seat almost immediately, you'll be fine using it.
2/15/07, 09:24 PM
#50
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anyone know about Motul and where it fits in? I'm just curious
2/15/07, 09:42 PM
#51
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I switched to Mobil 1 at 1200 miles, and took the stang to 120 mph. with 90 miles on the o.d., I now have 16,000 mi. no oil useage, runs perfect. I change the oil every 5,000 FL-820 filter.
2/15/07, 10:22 PM
#53
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As far as when to switch over to synthetic, you can do so from the get go. If the assumption is that a new engine will never break-in if you switch to synthetic too early, that means that Corvettes, Vipers, and all Porsches will never break-in as they are all factory filled with Mobil 1.
I'm not sure where this myth started that your engine is "broken in at the factory" but it isn't true. Engines are milled to tighter specs than ever before, so they do break in faster, but they shouldn't be broken in before you get it. 90 % of the break in occurs in the first 50 miles.
2/15/07, 10:32 PM
#54
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I just want to clarify what metro and I have been debating (for those of you who haven't read some of the info we posted).
A TRUE synthetic oil uses different bases and additives to yield the final product than a syntec-blend. Legally oil can be sold as synthetic that actually uses a dino base. Castrol does this and some purists find it objectionable (myself included).
Full Synthetics like RP, RL, Amsoil and M1 are grouped differently because of how they are made. The question is whether or not M1 Syn is actually still in this "better" group or if they have gone the marketing way with Castrol to save money.
I, for one, would switch to one of the other full sythetics if I found out Mobil had pulled a switch. I'm not saying one oil is better than another, but if I am paying for a full syn I expect to get one.
A TRUE synthetic oil uses different bases and additives to yield the final product than a syntec-blend. Legally oil can be sold as synthetic that actually uses a dino base. Castrol does this and some purists find it objectionable (myself included).
Full Synthetics like RP, RL, Amsoil and M1 are grouped differently because of how they are made. The question is whether or not M1 Syn is actually still in this "better" group or if they have gone the marketing way with Castrol to save money.
I, for one, would switch to one of the other full sythetics if I found out Mobil had pulled a switch. I'm not saying one oil is better than another, but if I am paying for a full syn I expect to get one.
2/16/07, 03:54 AM
#55
Legacy TMS Member
There's nothing wrong with a Group III basestock, except when a company tries to market (and price it) in the Group IV/V price range. Pennzoil Platinum is actually priced reasonably for a decent oil formulation: Group III basestock and from what I heard, some Group V is added.
Syntec isn't actually bad oil and it is normally priced at about $4/qt. When Mobil 1 was $4/qt, it was a very good deal. At $4.60/qt using the Wal-Mart 5 qt jugs, it's still not a bad deal. I just wouldn't pay $5 or more per quart...
I broke in the 5.4 2V V8 by running dino 5W-30 until 1500 miles and switched over to Mobil 1 5W-30. It's actually the most fuel efficient and quietest modular engine we have. My 4.6 2V is a noisy gas guzzling beast, and the 4.6 3V is turning into a gas guzzling sewing machine as well
Syntec isn't actually bad oil and it is normally priced at about $4/qt. When Mobil 1 was $4/qt, it was a very good deal. At $4.60/qt using the Wal-Mart 5 qt jugs, it's still not a bad deal. I just wouldn't pay $5 or more per quart...
I broke in the 5.4 2V V8 by running dino 5W-30 until 1500 miles and switched over to Mobil 1 5W-30. It's actually the most fuel efficient and quietest modular engine we have. My 4.6 2V is a noisy gas guzzling beast, and the 4.6 3V is turning into a gas guzzling sewing machine as well
2/16/07, 08:13 AM
#56
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Ya, I've used other products of theirs, including their motorcycle oil which is popular in the biker community. A lot of my German-car driving friends swear by Motul products...I've asked about it on here before but it doesn't seem to be a popular choice by Mustang owners even though the Mustang Race cars use it.
The 8100 series says it has fully synthetic bases...they only come in a 5w30 (not a 5w20) which is actually what I use now so I don't see a problem for when I switch. Some people get really upset about not using 5w20 but I've done my research enough and tested it in the car and there's no issues so far.
http://www.motul-lubricants.ca/ is what i found
Any experts care to weigh in?
2/16/07, 11:02 AM
#57
Ya, I've used other products of theirs, including their motorcycle oil which is popular in the biker community. A lot of my German-car driving friends swear by Motul products...I've asked about it on here before but it doesn't seem to be a popular choice by Mustang owners even though the Mustang Race cars use it.
The 8100 series says it has fully synthetic bases...they only come in a 5w30 (not a 5w20) which is actually what I use now so I don't see a problem for when I switch. Some people get really upset about not using 5w20 but I've done my research enough and tested it in the car and there's no issues so far.
http://www.motul-lubricants.ca/ is what i found
Any experts care to weigh in?
The 8100 series says it has fully synthetic bases...they only come in a 5w30 (not a 5w20) which is actually what I use now so I don't see a problem for when I switch. Some people get really upset about not using 5w20 but I've done my research enough and tested it in the car and there's no issues so far.
http://www.motul-lubricants.ca/ is what i found
Any experts care to weigh in?
2/16/07, 02:08 PM
#58
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I guess as long as you feel comfortable. My only concern would be if you did encounter an issue down the road... according to the owner's manual, to protect your powertrain warranty, "use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 or an equivalent 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A". Then they have more in bold highlights about 5W-20 only. That being said, as long as the 8100 series 5W-30 is considered an "equivalent" and meets Fords specs, you'll be OK.
my last car everyone switched to 0w40. i couldn't even tell you the factory spec weight...and 100,000's of miles later people are still a-ok.
regardless my questions were more about the brand motul then the weight. IF there was an 8100 5w20, what are people's thoughts? i find in the auto community, once there's a trend towards one brand, everyone follows like lemmings (i.e. mobil here, motul elsewhere, RP elsewhere).
2/16/07, 02:50 PM
#59
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Realistically, is the ford tech going to drain your oil, put a drop on his finger and give it a little taste.
"This aint that there Mo-to-craaft earl!"
Just use a stock filter, because the Motorcraft filters are quite nice anyway. Use whatever oil you want, as long as it's a 5w20. Any dealership that voids a warranty because of a brand of oil is really reaching for something.
CR
"This aint that there Mo-to-craaft earl!"
Just use a stock filter, because the Motorcraft filters are quite nice anyway. Use whatever oil you want, as long as it's a 5w20. Any dealership that voids a warranty because of a brand of oil is really reaching for something.
CR
2/16/07, 04:15 PM
#60
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Realistically, is the ford tech going to drain your oil, put a drop on his finger and give it a little taste.
"This aint that there Mo-to-craaft earl!"
Just use a stock filter, because the Motorcraft filters are quite nice anyway. Use whatever oil you want, as long as it's a 5w20. Any dealership that voids a warranty because of a brand of oil is really reaching for something.
CR
"This aint that there Mo-to-craaft earl!"
Just use a stock filter, because the Motorcraft filters are quite nice anyway. Use whatever oil you want, as long as it's a 5w20. Any dealership that voids a warranty because of a brand of oil is really reaching for something.
CR
kristina