Well, two days and lots of bloody knuckles later... they are in! It was actually easier than I expected, BUT, it was also way more time consuming than expected.

Also, the left header is practically touching the trans casing. Is that like that for everyone?

I ended up using the H-Pipe with the little mufflers. It basically eliminated ALL of my trumpeting, which is nice, and also smoothed out the tone all across the board. I may try the straight pipes instead at some point down the road... most likely when I switch to new axle-backs.

I have to get a spacer and that long bolt for the dipstick as well.

Thanks to all who have posted as you've made this much easier than it would have been without the information!

 

I have everything put back together EXCEPT for my dipstick. You had to get a larger bolt? What longtubes are you running?

 

Yeah, if you look over this thread, they talk about getting an aluminum spacer and longer bolt for the dipstick.

I'm running the OBX Long Tubes.

 

Well... sounds like im getting the same rub as you, so I'll have to get under the car again at some point. I think I want to wait until the weekend though. I've spent too much **** time under there already.

 

That interesting. On my 08, I don't even have hangers on under my tranny for the ehxuast.

 

I had a spot where the L/H header was touching the bellhousing as well.Got the dremel & ground down a small spot on the bellhousing edge to clear the primary. You must have a manual as well, the auto we installed on(Scott's) had plenty of clearance there.

 

Aircare... I may just have to do that. And yes, I have a manual. I also need to dremel off that **** hanger so it'll stop rattling!

 

I'm in on the LT's, I have $175 saved, hopefully by Christmas!

 

There is a TSB about service departments removing the hangers if the rattle exists. So I guess in '08 they started manufacturing the cars without the hangers at the mid pipe.

 

I took my car in for rattles and they put clamps around both of the mounts for the hangers. Seemed to fix the problem.

Also got some OBX LT, and prothane mounts on the way. Cant wait to install this weekend.

 

Good luck with you install & let us know how it went for you.

 

Yea I know, the thread that will NEVER DIE!!! Had a question for all of you that have installed these. Does anyone know the size of the connector pipes between the sides of the H-pipes? I want to get a band clamp to replace the C clamp they sent, but canlt find any locally so I'll have to order online and need to know what size to order.

Al

 

Al, are you talking about the H union? I would say a 2.5'' or 2'', but if I were you I would go to the muffler shop and let them weld it, the place here charged me $20 to weld that H section and I can remove the whole H-pipe and it will never leak.

 

That's probably the direction I'll go in. On a side note, I'm starting to think the rubbing issue I was having has to do with the extra 1/4" higher the engine is now with the prothane motor mounts. I figure if it was built off the stock mounts, that would explain those couple slight clearance issues I was having. I need to get them shaved down to get better clearance for the Saleen anyway, so I guess I'll find out then.

 

Install from hell!

Well, the LTs are in, along with the Granatelli Exhaust kti I bought. Took us 8 hours to do everything. Couldn't get the little holes to line up properly to the block, couldn't get one of the screws in even if my life depended on it, passenger side the collector is hitting the frame, so I have rattles and vibrations, it's hitting the steering column, so I'm gonna have to find a way to slightly bend it where it's touching right now.
Threw the expected codes, but since I didn't reconnect the rear 02 sensors, I can't rev past 3K rpms, it chokes when I do it (as if I've hit the rev limiter or worse). Am I supposed to connect the sensors or not? Everyone said that they are eliminated, but I'm not sure what that means: do I have to connect the sensors to the blue connector and eliminate at the time or loading the tune or what?

Anyways, any help is appreciated. I'm hurting all over from spending so much time under the car, it was a pain to do the install, literally!

 

Sorry you are having so much problem. I don't know what hoses or screws you're talking about.
But have you tried to shift the motor to solve the steering colom and passenger collector rattle? That sounds like the engine needs to be shifted to the passenger side some.

The Hpipe doesn't have bungs for rear O2's so you will need to get a tune that eliminates them. I am not sure if you can turn off the rear O2's with your SCT2, but I have a Bamachips tune on my SCT3 and Doug turns off the rear O2's in his tunes. If you are useing the can tune on SCT2 maybe call Bamachips or Brenspeed for a tune, I think you can get a 1 tune package for $50.

On mine, I took off the rear O2's, but later I will put cats on and install bungs for the rear O2's and get a tune with them on so I can pass inspection.
I hope this helps you out.

 

Your right Al, this thread is like the Energizer Bunny.

I still need to get under her and grind the bellhousing some. That is the last OBX rattle I think I have. And I still need to get my muffler hanger welded, that is my worst rattle and I have been putting it off too long.

 

I'm thinking about those tubes as well.

Seeing as they are Japanese made, I will need to put a "Type R" decal on my windshield!

 

I had the bell housing rattle initially as well, but thankfully shifting the engine nefore I locked the motor mounts down solved that for me. Pulled the mounts last night, and it looks like I'll get some relief, but only time will tell on that...

 

just spent an hour and a half reading this whole thread... just may have to get some long tubes instead of bbk shorty's now... not sure though with having to change the motormounts and all the grinding of bolts and stuff. ill sleep on it.