Prothane motor mounts
12/19/07, 07:15 PM
#21
Legacy TMS Member
Hey Scott, that may be a little more involved than you think...... unless you want to make a trim ring that goes around the whole shaker scoop and fits in-between the scoop and the molding, you'll only be able to raise the front portion of the shaker (near the t-body) if you plan on using the ball stud mount towards the rear. I've experimented already on raising my shaker; it's actually been raised about 1/4" for a year now. I don't think anyone at Stangstock noticed because our hoods were all open.
12/19/07, 07:16 PM
#22
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I edited my post about your brand of header. I would suggest you talk to Steeda about your issue. I have not seen it with the OBX longtube brand on Larry's car. If I have an issue with it on my car I will post an honest opinion of the problem. That you can be sure of.
Scott
Scott
12/19/07, 07:23 PM
#23
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Hey STD, I had that problem on hard right-hand turns with my Ford Racing headers. I loosened up the nut on top of each motor mount and shoved my engine over about 1/4 towards the passenger side. Since then I've had no problem. Just my 2 cents.
12/19/07, 07:25 PM
#24
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There is no difference in the red and black Prothane mounts. I have the black and they actually raised the engine about a 1/4 inch. If you want to go lower for a Saleen supercharger or some other reason buy the shaved mounts from JDM engineering!
There is more NVH especially on startup but personally I like it and the motor seems tighter. They work great with the CHE torque limiters and brace.
I hope this helps you out Scott.
There is more NVH especially on startup but personally I like it and the motor seems tighter. They work great with the CHE torque limiters and brace.
I hope this helps you out Scott.
12/19/07, 07:28 PM
#25
Team Mustang Source
I still have the BMR brace with a couple of washers under it and it clears just barely. I does make an impression on the hood liner but who cares about that.
12/19/07, 09:40 PM
#27
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When I installed the Prothane mounts in mine they raised the engine almost ½ inch. This caused all kinds of fitment problems with my turbo piping. I had to get the lowering mounts from JDM to get everything to line up correctly.
Earl
Earl
12/19/07, 11:30 PM
#28
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There is no difference in the red and black Prothane mounts. I have the black and they actually raised the engine about a 1/4 inch. If you want to go lower for a Saleen supercharger or some other reason buy the shaved mounts from JDM engineering!
There is more NVH especially on startup but personally I like it and the motor seems tighter. They work great with the CHE torque limiters and brace.
I hope this helps you out Scott.
There is more NVH especially on startup but personally I like it and the motor seems tighter. They work great with the CHE torque limiters and brace.
I hope this helps you out Scott.
edit:better yet,are these the ones?>http://www.pmpparts.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=329
12/20/07, 12:59 AM
#29
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Hey Scott, that may be a little more involved than you think...... unless you want to make a trim ring that goes around the whole shaker scoop and fits in-between the scoop and the molding, you'll only be able to raise the front portion of the shaker (near the t-body) if you plan on using the ball stud mount towards the rear. I've experimented already on raising my shaker; it's actually been raised about 1/4" for a year now. I don't think anyone at Stangstock noticed because our hoods were all open.
Tom,
I think you misunderstood where I would put the aluminum shim at. If the motor would sit to low I would just make a washer that would sit on the top of the Prothane motor mount to raise the engine. Should be an easy fix in my mind. I guess I am going to find out what they do since I purchased them last night. I am more worried about creating to much NHV with them. At least they would be easy to change back to the stock hydromounts.
Scott
12/20/07, 05:42 AM
#30
Legacy TMS Member
Tom,
I think you misunderstood where I would put the aluminum shim at. If the motor would sit to low I would just make a washer that would sit on the top of the Prothane motor mount to raise the engine. Should be an easy fix in my mind. I guess I am going to find out what they do since I purchased them last night. I am more worried about creating to much NHV with them. At least they would be easy to change back to the stock hydromounts.
Scott
I think you misunderstood where I would put the aluminum shim at. If the motor would sit to low I would just make a washer that would sit on the top of the Prothane motor mount to raise the engine. Should be an easy fix in my mind. I guess I am going to find out what they do since I purchased them last night. I am more worried about creating to much NHV with them. At least they would be easy to change back to the stock hydromounts.
Scott
And I was told quite clearly last night that I have shopped enough for this year. 
12/20/07, 07:42 AM
#33
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12/20/07, 03:45 PM
#35
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Anymore imput from you guys running the Prothane mounts about added NVH or whether or not they raise or lower the engine from stock height. It seems we are getting mixed info about other manufacturers on this raising or lowering the engine. I only care about the Prothane brand since that is what I bought.
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
12/20/07, 03:47 PM
#36
Legacy TMS Member
Anymore imput from you guys running the Prothane mounts about added NVH or whether or not they raise or lower the engine from stock height. It seems we are getting mixed info about other manufacturers on this raising or lowering the engine. I only care about the Prothane brand since that is what I bought.
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
12/20/07, 03:51 PM
#37
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Hey Scott I posted on a different forum and got a response from someone that owns the Prothanes, and also a vendor that sells them and they both agree that they leave the engine sitting at roughly the same height- not higher or lower. I think I'm gonna order me some- maybe.
Scott
12/20/07, 04:42 PM
#38
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They increase vibration a little but it isn't anything crazy. they do keep the motor from twisting where the hydro mounts have more give. it is the extra twisting that the hydro mounts allow that caused issues for people i believe. My headers clear by about 1/4 inch but every once in a while i hear them tap at the steering column. I like the jiggle from the stiffer mounts though.
12/20/07, 05:51 PM
#39
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They increase vibration a little but it isn't anything crazy. they do keep the motor from twisting where the hydro mounts have more give. it is the extra twisting that the hydro mounts allow that caused issues for people i believe. My headers clear by about 1/4 inch but every once in a while i hear them tap at the steering column. I like the jiggle from the stiffer mounts though.
Thanks Faber. You know if your hitting the steering shaft you can loosen the motor mount bolts and push the motor sideways if you need to. That's what we did to Larry's ( Aircare84) when we installed them. You might what to check it out!!
Scott
12/20/07, 05:56 PM
#40
I ordered the red Prothanes, should be here any day now.
I'll be doing a write-up on them.
To echo Rich, there's no difference between the black and red mounts.
And like others have said, the non-shaved mounts (JDM modified Prothanes) should leave the engine at stock height. JDM/Prothanes lower the engine about 1/2".
I personally drove JedCranium's KB powered Roush (he's got the JDM/Prothanes) and it definitely has some engine vibrations that can be felt on the butt-o-meter when you first crank it over and up to around 1700 rpm's or so. If this is what you're looking for, like me, the Prothanes are the way to go.
With any luck, I'll have them installed on Saturday.
I'll be doing a write-up on them.
To echo Rich, there's no difference between the black and red mounts.
And like others have said, the non-shaved mounts (JDM modified Prothanes) should leave the engine at stock height. JDM/Prothanes lower the engine about 1/2".
I personally drove JedCranium's KB powered Roush (he's got the JDM/Prothanes) and it definitely has some engine vibrations that can be felt on the butt-o-meter when you first crank it over and up to around 1700 rpm's or so. If this is what you're looking for, like me, the Prothanes are the way to go.
With any luck, I'll have them installed on Saturday.