Prochamber Install
2/11/07, 03:43 PM
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Prochamber Install
Fellow car nuts!!!
I decided to follow in TacoBill's shoes and contribute to the collective knowledge! This morning I installed the direct fit MAC Prochamber I got from CR at Tillman Speed, one of the new TMS sponsors. I'm giving them mad props for getting the part to me in two days even after I beat them down on the price...including shipping!!
The Prochamber:
Pros: Nice and shiny stainless steel...this alone is enough to distract and mesmerize any real man!! Other than that, the welds looked good, and it seemed to have survived UPS without incident.
Cons: Seemed a little rough around the edges. The back end pipes seemed a little crooked, and there was a lot of factory grit inside the pipes.
Install notes: I hereby offically recognize TacoBill as king of installation instructions, since I basically copied everything he wrote in his FRPP X-Pipe Install. The Prochamber install is only different in one key area though...you have to make your cut forward of the stock H-pipe's bracket hangers, so it won't fall on your head when you cut through the last pipe.
And a quick disclaimer, I'm military, so I have access to a full service auto shop complete with lift. The whole process took me two hours to change out the H-pipe, change my oil (15K!!--first Mobil 1 synthetic), and realign my Stingers. Those working on the floor in their garage...well...yeah.
Install:
Got the car up and the Prochamber out of the box. Disconnect the mid-pipe clamps and support the overaxle pipes. With the assistance of some auto shop regulars I lined the back pipes of the Prochamber up with the stock H-pipe and then made some marks with a grease pencil on the stock pipe where the Prochamber lined up in the front. (no photo of this procedure) Then, per TacoBill, I measured back 1.5" towards the rear for the overlap and established my cut lines. I placed tape and marked the cut lines with a big red arrow!
With cut lines clearly established, I break out the reciprocating saw with the metal cutting blade and do the scariest thing I have ever done...start to hack up my fairly new Mustang!
to be continued...
I decided to follow in TacoBill's shoes and contribute to the collective knowledge! This morning I installed the direct fit MAC Prochamber I got from CR at Tillman Speed, one of the new TMS sponsors. I'm giving them mad props for getting the part to me in two days even after I beat them down on the price...including shipping!!
The Prochamber:
Pros: Nice and shiny stainless steel...this alone is enough to distract and mesmerize any real man!! Other than that, the welds looked good, and it seemed to have survived UPS without incident.
Cons: Seemed a little rough around the edges. The back end pipes seemed a little crooked, and there was a lot of factory grit inside the pipes.
Install notes: I hereby offically recognize TacoBill as king of installation instructions, since I basically copied everything he wrote in his FRPP X-Pipe Install. The Prochamber install is only different in one key area though...you have to make your cut forward of the stock H-pipe's bracket hangers, so it won't fall on your head when you cut through the last pipe.
And a quick disclaimer, I'm military, so I have access to a full service auto shop complete with lift. The whole process took me two hours to change out the H-pipe, change my oil (15K!!--first Mobil 1 synthetic), and realign my Stingers. Those working on the floor in their garage...well...yeah.
Install:
Got the car up and the Prochamber out of the box. Disconnect the mid-pipe clamps and support the overaxle pipes. With the assistance of some auto shop regulars I lined the back pipes of the Prochamber up with the stock H-pipe and then made some marks with a grease pencil on the stock pipe where the Prochamber lined up in the front. (no photo of this procedure) Then, per TacoBill, I measured back 1.5" towards the rear for the overlap and established my cut lines. I placed tape and marked the cut lines with a big red arrow!
With cut lines clearly established, I break out the reciprocating saw with the metal cutting blade and do the scariest thing I have ever done...start to hack up my fairly new Mustang!
to be continued...
2/12/07, 04:08 AM
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No Problem CR...I'll finish this post tonight...last night was a real PITA to even look at the site!!!
BTW, anybody know how I can post the pics directly into the text? I hate not being able to properly associate the photos...\
-Darth
BTW, anybody know how I can post the pics directly into the text? I hate not being able to properly associate the photos...\
-Darth
2/12/07, 07:38 AM
#4
Super Boss Lawman Member
I use photobucket to post pics, if that's what you are talking about.
2/12/07, 05:28 PM
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Part II...
Cutting the Stock H-pipe
This was not as easy as I expected it would be. The reciprocal saw is a powerful tool, not to be handled lightly. You need safety goggles and good lighting for this operation. Once it started to bite into the pipe it was quick, but the blade would knock the body along the way, making some scratches, but nothing too serious. Can't emphasize enough you need to hold it steady...I accidentally made an slightly uneven cut and had to work the blade back in to fix it. All told, it took about 6 minutes to cut both pipes. Now ease the whole H-pipe out of the hanger brackets and set aside.
Stock vs. MAC...Notice the massive size of the MAC mixing chamber compared to the teeny stock pipe.
A shot of my handiwork with the saw.
And a close up of some of my less handy moments.
Next...the hook up!
Cutting the Stock H-pipe
This was not as easy as I expected it would be. The reciprocal saw is a powerful tool, not to be handled lightly. You need safety goggles and good lighting for this operation. Once it started to bite into the pipe it was quick, but the blade would knock the body along the way, making some scratches, but nothing too serious. Can't emphasize enough you need to hold it steady...I accidentally made an slightly uneven cut and had to work the blade back in to fix it. All told, it took about 6 minutes to cut both pipes. Now ease the whole H-pipe out of the hanger brackets and set aside.
Stock vs. MAC...Notice the massive size of the MAC mixing chamber compared to the teeny stock pipe.
A shot of my handiwork with the saw.
And a close up of some of my less handy moments.
Next...the hook up!
2/12/07, 05:58 PM
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Part III...
The Hook Up
Install looked like it was going to be a breeze, just hang and clamp...right? Well, here's where I have to
MAC a little bit. Remember when i said it seemed a little rough? Well, in addition to the grit inside the chamber, it turns out the front openings are too small to mate right up with the stock pipe...in fact, they were the same diameter. SOOOO...I had to grab the flaring tool and give it about 6 or 8 whacks per side to open it up enough to slide on. Make sure you put the prochamber on a piece of wood to avoid damaging the rear piping. I suggest checking in between every three hits to make sure it's not too big.
Once I was sure it fit, I slid it on...only to find the hangers were not far back enough to allow for a good overlap!
So out comes the iron mallet and give the brackets a good 3 or 4 hits each to bend them back a little to allow the pipes to slide far enough on the stock pipe. Once I did that, the forward pipes slid all the way up to my original measuring lines, giving me a good 1.5" overlap. Use the supplied clamps to secure the prochamber to the stock cats...they are not very wide, but can be torqued down nice and tight.
I recommend you use some kind of stand to support the Prochamber while you hook up the mid pipes. Everything mated up well with the Prochamber, and after torquing the clamps good, I was done!
Impressions
Okay, so after making sure everything was tight I got her off the lift and onto the street. The first thing you notice is the exhaust sounds about 100% SMOOTHER than stock. I don't have the same rough growl at idle that the stock pipe gave, it is more of an evil purr now. I have resonators on the pipes for the drone, and so it probably will be louder for those with straight pipes.
Driving was even smoother than the idle sound...I can't do it justice in words and I don't have a good camcorder, but it is almost TOO SMOOTH!! It's like a race car sound now, not a rumbling muscle car sound. Don't get me wrong, it is LOUD at WOT, and there is still some drone in the 1800-2000 range, but it's a lot more refined, maybe even a little less intense.
So I got to drive about 45 miles this morning on the highway, and I know you won't believe this, but I swear my acceleration is a lot smoother now too!! I gunned it several times expecting the characteristic insane roar, and it was hardly there! Now I get quicker and smoother acceleration, but less raw edge. It's a real dilemma, I still have drone, I'm not as loud as i like, but the card drives a whole lot nicer!
In conclusion, I'd have to say money well spent, but I'm thinking about getting some of those Motoblue stainless overaxle pipes to up the volume. I'll swap the Borlas for Corsas to silence the drone and that should complete my exhaust.
Thanks for reading!!
-Darth
The Hook Up
Install looked like it was going to be a breeze, just hang and clamp...right? Well, here's where I have to
MAC a little bit. Remember when i said it seemed a little rough? Well, in addition to the grit inside the chamber, it turns out the front openings are too small to mate right up with the stock pipe...in fact, they were the same diameter. SOOOO...I had to grab the flaring tool and give it about 6 or 8 whacks per side to open it up enough to slide on. Make sure you put the prochamber on a piece of wood to avoid damaging the rear piping. I suggest checking in between every three hits to make sure it's not too big. Once I was sure it fit, I slid it on...only to find the hangers were not far back enough to allow for a good overlap!
So out comes the iron mallet and give the brackets a good 3 or 4 hits each to bend them back a little to allow the pipes to slide far enough on the stock pipe. Once I did that, the forward pipes slid all the way up to my original measuring lines, giving me a good 1.5" overlap. Use the supplied clamps to secure the prochamber to the stock cats...they are not very wide, but can be torqued down nice and tight. I recommend you use some kind of stand to support the Prochamber while you hook up the mid pipes. Everything mated up well with the Prochamber, and after torquing the clamps good, I was done!
Impressions
Okay, so after making sure everything was tight I got her off the lift and onto the street. The first thing you notice is the exhaust sounds about 100% SMOOTHER than stock. I don't have the same rough growl at idle that the stock pipe gave, it is more of an evil purr now. I have resonators on the pipes for the drone, and so it probably will be louder for those with straight pipes.
Driving was even smoother than the idle sound...I can't do it justice in words and I don't have a good camcorder, but it is almost TOO SMOOTH!! It's like a race car sound now, not a rumbling muscle car sound. Don't get me wrong, it is LOUD at WOT, and there is still some drone in the 1800-2000 range, but it's a lot more refined, maybe even a little less intense.
So I got to drive about 45 miles this morning on the highway, and I know you won't believe this, but I swear my acceleration is a lot smoother now too!! I gunned it several times expecting the characteristic insane roar, and it was hardly there! Now I get quicker and smoother acceleration, but less raw edge. It's a real dilemma, I still have drone, I'm not as loud as i like, but the card drives a whole lot nicer!
In conclusion, I'd have to say money well spent, but I'm thinking about getting some of those Motoblue stainless overaxle pipes to up the volume. I'll swap the Borlas for Corsas to silence the drone and that should complete my exhaust.
Thanks for reading!!
-Darth
2/12/07, 09:06 PM
#9
Super Boss Lawman Member
That's good to hear Darth. That's the first thing that I noticed after I got the prochamber installed was how much smoother it felt and sounded, even shifting through the gears feels smoother
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