I took my bar off last night with thoughts of shorting it so I could center my rear end. Man it seems like very thin walled tubeing I don't know why but I thought it would be solid.
Question is whats inside of the bar? Seems like sand or metal shavings and it almost full of it. Why do they put that stuff inside there?
Who has the least expensive adjustable bar out there?
Thanks for the info.

 

Check " parts for sale" I think there is A CHE for sale, good price!

 

Although it is a good deal on that CHE Bar it has a Rod End at one end and you may not like the noise transfer it gives.

Richard

 

Check out BMR's adjustable pan hard with poly ends. At $135 I'm not sure if it's the cheapest but their quality is some of the best. I'll be installing that with their panhard rod support shortly. Got it from Brenspeed if it matters.

 

any thoughts on me cutting mine to proper length and welding it back together.

 

Yes, don't do it...

 

Good feedback !

 

It looks to me that the BMR adjustable bar has spherical rod ends, and the non adjustable replacement bar has poly ends. Does BMR make an ajustable with poly ends??

Sorry, stupid post, I see the adjustable bar with poly ends.

JH

 

I have the BMR adjustible panhard rod with the spherical rod ends and since I installed it I have had a horrible rattle in the rear end whenevr i make turns or go over any unsmooth surface. Could the rod ends be the reason?

 

Yes. I went wiht BMR Race bar at first also and I removed it within one day due to the noise transfer it created. I ended up going with the CHE i like it's design much better and they have a very nice bushing setup.

As for cutting and rewelding the stock, well it has already been said DON'T DO IT!!

Richard

 

I supose the stuff/sand what ever it is inside my stock bar must be to suck up some sound/harmonics maybe??
As far as cutting and rewelding, I have to ask why not? Its already been welded at both ends from the factory.

 

How do you plan on figuring out exactly how much need to be cut? What if you cut to much what if you do not cut enough. What if your welding skills fail while driving the car.

To many What ifs. Spend 130 and buy a dam bar. Sheesh

Richard

 

If you can figure how much to cut and do a good weld job. Why not! I agree. Here's another thought. Just weld in an adjustable Heim joint into the stocker and whalaaa!!. Think about it. Can't make a mistake on length that way.
Scott

 

I dont see why this cant be done, but i'm with 06GT4RAD on this one. Dont do it, there are too many what-ifs and its not worth the risk if an aftermarket adjustable bar is less than $200.

 

I believe it is residue from the manufacturing process.

 

Nope AFChief... you are wrong. These stock panhard bars are made at Tenneco Automotive in Nepolean, Ohio. I have seen them being made and the shot that is in the stock panhard bars is on purpose. It was done by Ford to dampen some kind of harmonic issue. This I am positive about.
Scott

 

I am measureing from the fender lip to the center of the center hub on the rim. Split the difference and cut that much out.
If I cut to much or to little I will still be closer to center than I am now. I was actually hoping to find a piece of tubing about the same thickness as the tube the bar is made of but big enough to fit snugly over the bar and weld the ends up soild. I have a guy at work that has been mig welding over 15 years and I trust his work. I started out with my company mig welding a long time before he got there. I haven't been welding that whole time but I think I could do the job if he wasn't there.
I thought about making it adjustable but I don't know how thick the tubing is on the adjustable bar.
I may be wrong but I don't think there is a whole lot of stress on that bar in a daily driver.
Thanks for every ones input

 

+1 Yup, that's the truth.

 

Well, there you are.
So if I shake up the bar can I use it as a Native American rain stick?

 

I am curious though. Do any of the aftermarket panhard bars have this dampening material in them??