Ok, I lowered the car with the Eibach Pro Kit. I love the way it looks, but when I stare at the rear I can tell it is slightly off center. I was taking a wait and see approach to the adjustable panhard bar issue and now that I see it I realize I will need one. Actually, I don't know if I really need one, but I want to get one because I am **** and can't stand to look at the thing off center, even though I really have to look close to notice it. I have 3 questions I need help with please.

1. What brand panhard bar should I use? I have seen a few mentioned around the forum. Any pros/cons to a particular manufacturer?

2. How easy is this to install? I am not super mechanical, but I did install my axle back exhaust with no problem. However, I had my mechanic friend do the springs because I thought that might be a little complex for me.

3. How do you adjust it? Can you adjust after installation, or do you have to set it and then install, thereby causing you to have to take it off if you did not adjust it properly the first time?

Thanks as usaul for the help!

 

just put the steeda panhard bar on last week. i got the steeda because i got a deal on it. i would have rather bought the bmr because you can adjust it on the car the steeda needs to be adjusted and removed to tighten the jam nuts.

two bolts and it comes out

adjustment is very easy. i used a carpenters square & a ruler
when i took my car in for an alignment the rear was almost perfect

 

go with the CHE or the BMR. I went BMR because i got it from a member here for a good deal. Both are quality pieces.

 

BMR here. Very easy to install:
1. Pop off the plastic cover on the lower left (axle side) of the stock bar
2. Remove both bolts (one on each side) of the stock bar
3. Adjust the new bar to the same length as the stock bar
4. Install the stock bar
5. Measure your differences from side to side. I used a string with a weight on it and a tape measure.
6. Split that difference and adjust the bar accordingly.
7. Loc-tite!

 

yea.. what ^ said.

I adjusted mine to factory length and installed it, tightned the bolts and was done. I havnt notice any difference, but i'd have to really get a good look later when I put the big meats on the back...

I picked up the GMS one with the upper brace at the same time.

 

thanks for the input, sounds like BMR is the way to go. What is the best place to buy?

Also one more question, I read that after the springs are on the car for a little they may compress just a little more and they get broken in. If they do will I need further adjustment of the bar, and if so should I just wait a while to put it on so I only have to do it once?

 

put the bar on and adjust it... if it changes after the springs "settle", then you can adjust it some more.

 

ok thanks, what is the best place to buy?

 

I put a Watts Linkage on my Gt when I lowered it. It lets you adjust the axle dead center and you can dial in the handling just as you would on a race car. You can tighten it up or loosen it up depending on your circumstances and driving style.

FAYS2 Suspension Watts Link

A panhard bar works on an arc and will not keep the axle centered all of the time, this will.

 

BMR here as well. You can get one from LethalPerformance.com. Great pricing.

 

Don't forget about the MM panhard...http://www.maximummotorsports.com/

 

I too was looking at the Watts link. Forgive me for asking a silly question but its purpose is to replace the panhard bar and nothing else, correct?

Jon

 

Yes. The idea is to keep the axle centered at all times in order to keep suspension etc. at it's fullest potential and efficient. When the rear of the chassis moves up, the axle moves towards the passenger side. When the chassis moves down, the axle moves towards the drivers side. The idea is...when the axle is move one way or the other, the springs etc. are not 100% vertical, thus creating side load and not functioning to its fullest potential. It's for a road race application. IMO, I see it as splitting hairs. Kinda like removing the A/C in a street car (for weight reduction) that see's the track every so often. You're not really going to see much benefit of it on the street, unless it's a getaway car

 

So, what you are saying is that if you lower the car and change the shocks and springs it's not a dead red requirement to add the panhard bar to dial the chassis back in.....

 

It's not an absolute requirement in order for your car to run properly. The lower you drop your car, the worse it's going to be. Some people don't mind one tire sticking out further on the driver's side and tucked on the passenger's side...and you can see it. As well, you won't be fully utilizing your suspension all the time, as the Watts is intended for those moments around corners. The adj. panhard bar will allow you to recenter the axle and utilize your suspension etc. at its 100% efficiency. So....is it required, probably not. Is it highly recommended, yes.

 

That makes sense - I would mind so when I go down that road that will be part of the upgrade. Thanks for your input.

 

ordered from lethal performance, thanks

 

Don't forget the Ingalls Engineering panhard bar, I have them in stock. Ingalls also makes adjustable rear lower control arms for the 2005+ Mustang.

Tony D

 

I havn`t lowered my car but I do have a watts link and the handling gains are impressive.

 

Lakewood also offers a bolt-in Watt's Link as well. Don't know about pricing or availability, but probably similar to FAYS2 unit.