Hey everyone! This is my first post. I would like an opinion on which mods I should do next. I have in the ballpark of $800 - $1000 to spend. First of all, I will let you know which mods I have done to my car. I have a 2007 Mustang GT convertible automatic with the following mods:

Bama 93 Octane Performance Tune
Airaid Cold Air Intake
Pypes Off-Road X-pipe with deleted cats (factory exhaust manifold)
Flowmaster Outlaw Axlebacks
JLT Oil Separator
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Eibach Pro-Damper Shocks & Struts
SR Performance Strut Tower Brace
Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Rotor & Pad Kit

I am a mechanically inclined DIYer. I installed every mod myself, so I'm up for any challenge! What would you all recommend I do next in my price range of $800 - $1000? Any input would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

How about a camshaft change? Perhaps the Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams. If you do the install yourself you can stay in that budget range, gain useful horsepower and get a terrific lopey hot rod idle in the bargain.

In the $500 range you could change the rear end ratio to something like 4.10 or 3.73. This is a job you might want to have an experienced tech handle though if you're brave enough to try it yourself you could cut about $250 off the price.

 

Bang for the buck and something that you'll feel in the seat of the pants whenever you want to? Gears.

 

Thanks for the input! I have been thinking about getting 4.10 gears for a while now. It makes more sense now, considering my rear differential has had a small leak for a while. Might as well buy the 4.10 gears, install kit, and LOK rebuild kit and get it all done at once. :-)

 

Those springs are horrible. Get a linear rate spring.

 

While I appreciate your opinion, I did not ask for an opinion on my springs, nor do I have an issue with them.

 

I'm sorry, I read it as you were going to buy some, not that you had them.

They're still crap though.

 

Sqidd ! I've had Eibach pro springs on my 06 GT for over 9 years now..

Never experienced any negative issues with them at all.. In the meantime, I'd be very interested in finding out your reasons for not recommending them..


Thanks, Rocky

 

And what is so terrific about a lopey idle? You know your car is actually missing and sputtering when you have too small of an LSA.

OP, I didn't see what kind of tires you are running. Tires are going to be the single most important mod you are ever going to do to your car. A good set of rubber will make all of your other mods and your car perform better. Build from the ground up.

 

Got anything against the SR lowering springs?

 

Edit

 

They make it impossible to load up the contact patches smoothly when entering a corner. If you want to do anything remotely fast they become an issue. For most people on the street this is a non issue though. But even if someone is not going to be loading up contact patches why get springs with an Achilles heal when you can get some without?

They ride like dog ****. The only way you can get progressive rate springs to ride nice is to use a really expensive single piston damper. And no one does that.

I got some of those springs back in 2006 the day I got my car. They were on the car for exactly one week.

I am a retired professional road racer and spent 10yrs as a suspension engineer/tuner. I know of what I speak.

 

What brands and types of lowering springs would you recommend ?

In the meantime, until I'm able to purchase which ever brand/type of springs that you recommend, should I also re-install the factory OEM springs, at least temporarily

 

? Was that for me

 

I have an 06 GT Verty and getting back to the OP, these cars come with plenty of power and what you want to do is to be able to make use of it. If you've seen the Mustang fail videos many of them are in part because the raise up the power but don't do anything with the suspension. I started swapping out my components and didn't stop until just about everything was changed. Now it feels like I'm on rails.

When that's done and you want to go faster, save up for a supercharger. I had a Paxton Nuvi 1200 installed by Brenspeed. I've seen them on sale for as little as 3.5K and it comes with everything you'll need. Mine was $3999. I had them add better radiator fan, thermostat, KB boost a pump. With installation and dyno tune the total was 5.7K. I now get 420hp at the wheels and 376lbs of torque.

If I were you my next step would be lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar, panhard bar brace. A better rear sway bar would be the H&R 26mm and they work with the vert and doesn't come into contact with the frame brace. Up front you could go with an adjustable Whiteline sway bar.

Good luck.

 

In my opinion there are two options I would look at just because nobody mentioned them. One is of course some LT headers to go with the rest of your exhaust. Save a little more for the Kooks. Well worth it. The next thing that would be easier but give you some satisfaction would be to change to a Short throw Shifter like a Hurst or steeda. I am old school so I like Hurst but there are a bunch of them out there and they really make things more pleasant. My last suggestion would be to get the steeda GOOD rear lca's. Suspension will take more time off than you would think in a race let's say.

 

OH, I have Vogtland springs and I love them.