GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

Oil change how often by dealer?

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Old 9/16/05, 11:54 PM
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How often do you need to change your oil to keep your vehicle under warranty? As required by Ford.
Old 9/16/05, 11:57 PM
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Just do it every 3-5k miles to keep your car running happy . This will keep it in warranty, but nevermind that as a reason.
Old 9/17/05, 12:41 AM
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Every 5000 miles according to Ford's documentation that came with the car.
Old 9/17/05, 03:04 AM
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I change mine every 3,000 miles regardless (even though the manual says 5,000).
Old 9/17/05, 03:49 AM
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If you follow the owner's manual recommendation, you'll be fine. If you decide to do it earlier (I do it every 3k miles) and decide not to take it to the dealership, be sure to save your receipts. Having it done at the dealership is easier from the standpoint that they keep records that can be referred to if there is a question about warranty coverage, but as long as you keep your receipts (I change my own oil) and document the mileage, you should be fine.
Old 9/17/05, 07:57 AM
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I change my Mustang's oil every 3K and use a high quality full synthetic like Mobil 1, Redline or Royal Purple. Every 5K will satisfy the warranty requirements but keeping the oil changed often is the number one thing you can do to be sure your engine lives a long, healthy life...and produces maximum horsepower and torque!!!
Old 9/18/05, 11:37 AM
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I thought with full synthetics you could go longer than 3k miles to change your oil.
Old 9/18/05, 06:40 PM
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You can go longer with full synthetics but I still change every 3K. Clean oil and a new filter is just cheap insurance and helps maintain maximum horsepower.
Old 9/19/05, 08:44 AM
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Originally posted by MustangFanatic@September 18, 2005, 8:43 PM
You can go longer with full synthetics but I still change every 3K. Clean oil and a new filter is just cheap insurance and helps maintain maximum horsepower.
I agree. My '91 Ranger 4.0L V6 has about 104,000 on it, and it's had Mobil 1 5W-30 its whole life, changed every 3k miles. It doesn't burn any oil and runs like the first day I bought it.

While I'm sure that synthetic viscosity holds up well past 3,000 miles, it's the impurities that get into it from combustion that I worry about. At 3k miles, the oil is black. Even at $5 a quart, it's still cheap insurance, and I always smile when I pull the dipstick and see nice, clean oil on the end of it.
Old 9/19/05, 09:58 AM
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Hey Guys,

I've got around 2000 miles on my '05 GT, and I want to change the oil. However, I haven't done much research on the best type of oil to use for the first couple changes (I've always had a lease car, oil changes included ) There's a ton of different types to juice it with, I was just curious on opinions for best engine life and performance of the car. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
Old 9/19/05, 09:13 PM
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Some advise to use regular dino oil the first change to ensure that the rings are properly seated, etc. and then switch to full synthetics. Personally, I've always used full synthetics from the first oil change with no issues. However, if someone can offer a rationale explanation not to use full synthetics initially, I'm open to changing that practice. Just my $.02
Old 9/20/05, 11:29 AM
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I've had Mobil 1 in my Ranger since it's first oil change (see previous reply), but I also read recently about waiting to change to pure synthetic until 5k miles because of the ring issue you mentioned. I certainly can't prove it one way or the other, but it's only 1 additional oil change with a synthetic blend instead of full synthetic in the car's whole life, so I can wait.

I first changed the Mustang's oil at 750 miles and used Motorcraft synthetic blend. At 5k miles, I'll be switching over to Mobil 1 5W-20.
Old 9/20/05, 11:57 AM
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Don't flame me...Just had to share this...

OIL CHANGE INSTRUCTIONS FOR WOMEN:

1) Pull into to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000-miles since the
last oil change.

2) Drink a hot cup of coffee and relax.

3) 20-minutes later, write a check and leave with a well-maintained
vehicle.


MONEY SPENT :

Oil Change $20.00
Coffee $1.00

TOTAL: $21.00

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

OIL CHANGE INSTRUCTIONS FOR MEN:

1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil,
filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree; write check for
$50.

2) Go by Qwik-Stop and buy a case of beer; write a check for $20.00,
drive home.

3) Drink a beer to "get started."

4) Jack car up. Spend 30-minutes looking for jack stands.

5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.

6) In frustration, have another beer.

7) Place drain pan under engine.

8) Look for 9/16" box-end wrench.

9) Give up and use crescent-wrench instead.

10) Unscrew drain plug.

11) Accidentally drop drain plug into pan of hot oil, splashing hot oil
on you in process.

12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw kitty litter on oil drops.

13) Another beer while watching oil drain.

14) Spend 30-minutes looking for oil filter wrench.

15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off.

16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing hot oil
everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among debris in
trash can to avoid environmental fee. Beer.

17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finish oil
change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener.

18) Sunday: Skip church because, "I gotta finish the oil change." Drag
pan full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole
in backyard instead of taking it to be recycled, and avoid environmental fee.

19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.

20) Beer? No, drank it all Saturday.

21) Walk to Qwik-Stop, buy more beer.

22) Install new oil filter, making sure to a thin coat of oil to gasket
surface.

23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.

24) Suddenly remember drain plug from step 11.

25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.

26) Recall that the used oil is buried in a hole in the backyard --
along with drain plug.

27) Beer.

28) Shovel out hole and sift through oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oily dirt into hole. Steal sand from kid's sandbox to cleverly conceal oily p! atch of ground and avoid environmental fee. Wash drain plug in lawnmower gas.

29) Discover first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty
litter on oil.

30) Beer.

31) Crawl back under car, get kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with
oily gas rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench
tightening drain plug rapping knuckles on sharp edge of frame.

32) Bang forehead on exhaust manifold in reaction to step 31.

33) Cussing fit.

34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.

35) Cuss for additional 10-minutes.

36) Beer.

37) Clean up hands and head, and apply bandages to stop blood flow.

38) Beer to stop pain....

39) Ditto.

40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.

41) Beer.

42) Lower car from jack stands.

43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.

44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil from steps 23 -
43.

45) Beer.

46) Test drive car.

47) Pulled-over and arrested for DUI.

48) Car towed and impounded.

49) Call loving wife; make bail.

50) 12-hours later; bail out car.


MONEY SPENT :

Parts $50.00
DUI $2,500.00
Towing Fee $175.00
Impound Fee $75.00
Bail $1,500.00
Beer $40.00

TOTAL: $4,340.00

BUT, YOU KNOW THE JOB WAS DONE RIGHT!!!

Old 9/20/05, 12:35 PM
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You forgot Step 34.1 "Crescent wrench bounces off old tire in garage an creates a sizable dent in your left front fender" followed by Step 34.2 "Pound crescent wrench into powder with 10 lb sledge hammer".
Old 9/20/05, 12:37 PM
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By the way Dusty, very funny!!

And I agree with your strategy, keep the Motorcraft synthetic blend in the crankcase until 5K and then full synthetics!!
Old 9/29/05, 10:58 AM
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Originally posted by uofh2005@September 18, 2005, 11:40 AM
I thought with full synthetics you could go longer than 3k miles to change your oil.
I don't know about longer life with synthetics but I saw on Hot Rod TV they took a brand new 05 Mustang GT and dyno'd at 264hp. Then they changed all the lubricants (engine oil, tranny, gear, etc) with royal purple and they got 169hp, an extra 5hp.
Old 9/29/05, 04:16 PM
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I'm up for longer oil changes. I just switched my baby over to Amsoil 5W-20 XL7500 oil. I am going to go on the 6 month or 7500 miles, which ever comes first. Amsoil has a policy that if you use there recommended oil change policy and the manufactuer, they will go to bat for you and even cover the cost of repairs if they can not get the manufacturer to honor the warrenty.

Frankly, this whole 3000 mile thing has been a crock for a LONG time. Between the improved manufacturing processes and improved motor oil, there is almost never any need to change even dino oil at a 3000 mile interval.
Old 9/29/05, 05:36 PM
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[quote=MustangFanatic,September 19, 2005, 10:16 PM]
Some advise to use regular dino oil the first change to ensure that the rings are properly seated, etc. and then switch to full synthetics. Personally, I've always used full synthetics from the first oil change with no issues. However, if someone can offer a rationale explanation not to use full synthetics initially, I'm open to changing that practice. Just my $.02
[
New Corvettes and some other cars come from the factory with full synthetic oil. So much for the dino oil break-in.
Old 9/29/05, 05:40 PM
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Originally posted by RRRoamer@September 29, 2005, 5:19 PM
I'm up for longer oil changes. I just switched my baby over to Amsoil 5W-20 XL7500 oil. I am going to go on the 6 month or 7500 miles, which ever comes first. Amsoil has a policy that if you use there recommended oil change policy and the manufactuer, they will go to bat for you and even cover the cost of repairs if they can not get the manufacturer to honor the warrenty.

Frankly, this whole 3000 mile thing has been a crock for a LONG time. Between the improved manufacturing processes and improved motor oil, there is almost never any need to change even dino oil at a 3000 mile interval.
I agree with you. The 3000 mile thing is a crock. It just is sales gimmick for the oils. I remember back in the day, they recommended at 5k. Just like the Stang manual. I plan to use Amsoil myself at the first change. As I stated, some new cars come filled with synthetic.

Go to the Amsoil web site and read about it.
Old 9/29/05, 06:34 PM
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Every 3K is certainly a marketing ploy but my position has always been that changing oil every 3K (or 5K if that's your preference) is just cheap insurance for your car. Plus it keeps the engine performing at it's maximum HP potential. And maximum HP is ALWAYS a good thing!!


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