Not another engine break-in thread!
3/10/05, 09:11 AM
#1
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Owners manual says to avoid constant rpm's and constant speed levels during "break-in" period. The wording is a bit vauge, can someone tell me specifically/technically whats going on in the engine during these times of constant rpm's that I am to avoid?
I have to take a 400 mile trip right out of the box, just want to do it right.
This is not a "how to break-in" thread...thank you!
I have to take a 400 mile trip right out of the box, just want to do it right.
This is not a "how to break-in" thread...thank you!
3/10/05, 10:11 AM
#2
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It's so the rings can seal properly on the pistons. If you don't wait, it could reduce engine life, burn oil, alot of blow-by, etc.
Although, i've heard from people that only break them in for ~200-500 miles and then run it hard after that and they've had the same engine for quite a while and nothing has gone wrong.
Although, i've heard from people that only break them in for ~200-500 miles and then run it hard after that and they've had the same engine for quite a while and nothing has gone wrong.
3/10/05, 10:22 AM
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I'm more in the "run them hard from the time you leave the dealers lot" crowd. Taking it "easy" is the BEST way to have an engine that does not produce maximum power and burns oil. You have to get the rings worn in to the cylinder while the hone is sharp. When you take it easy, you reduce the pressure between the ring and the cylinder to the point that the ring never fully wears in before the sharp edges from the hone are worn smooth.
And no, I'm not saying take it out and run it at redline for a full tank of gas to brake it in. But taking it to the drag strip would actully be a good thing. 10 or 15 runs later, your rings should be mostly worn in and you should have a very tight engine. The nice thing about the stip is that you get plenty of time to cool off between runs, so you never over heat things. YMMV
And no, I'm not saying take it out and run it at redline for a full tank of gas to brake it in. But taking it to the drag strip would actully be a good thing. 10 or 15 runs later, your rings should be mostly worn in and you should have a very tight engine. The nice thing about the stip is that you get plenty of time to cool off between runs, so you never over heat things. YMMV
3/10/05, 11:01 AM
#4
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Originally posted by RRRoamer@March 10, 2005, 12:25 PM
I'm more in the "run them hard from the time you leave the dealers lot" crowd. Taking it "easy" is the BEST way to have an engine that does not produce maximum power and burns oil. You have to get the rings worn in to the cylinder while the hone is sharp. When you take it easy, you reduce the pressure between the ring and the cylinder to the point that the ring never fully wears in before the sharp edges from the hone are worn smooth.
And no, I'm not saying take it out and run it at redline for a full tank of gas to brake it in. But taking it to the drag strip would actully be a good thing. 10 or 15 runs later, your rings should be mostly worn in and you should have a very tight engine. The nice thing about the stip is that you get plenty of time to cool off between runs, so you never over heat things. YMMV
I'm more in the "run them hard from the time you leave the dealers lot" crowd. Taking it "easy" is the BEST way to have an engine that does not produce maximum power and burns oil. You have to get the rings worn in to the cylinder while the hone is sharp. When you take it easy, you reduce the pressure between the ring and the cylinder to the point that the ring never fully wears in before the sharp edges from the hone are worn smooth.
And no, I'm not saying take it out and run it at redline for a full tank of gas to brake it in. But taking it to the drag strip would actully be a good thing. 10 or 15 runs later, your rings should be mostly worn in and you should have a very tight engine. The nice thing about the stip is that you get plenty of time to cool off between runs, so you never over heat things. YMMV
3/10/05, 12:59 PM
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This will be my first new car, so I am not too sure, but if it is anything like bikes, there are two ways to break in a bike. The "take it easy the first 500" like it says in the manual, and like Ford says for the stang. And then there is the "other" method, where the first 30 miles are the most critical. You need to do 4 or 5 runs with fast accelleration and decelleration, and there is a whole scientific method behind this (I cant find the link, try using google for break in methods).......... any way, me and my dad both bought the same motorcycles, and he broke it in like the manual says, varying the revs, not taking it past a certain RPM for the first 500 or so...... but I did the 4 drag runs, like it said for the other break in method. Now both are bikes are well past the break in period, and when we race, my bike pulls harder and faster than his. We change riders, I ride his, just to make sure its not a skill thing, but the results are always the same, my bike pulls harder, and will win by about 1 bike length.
Food for thought.
Food for thought.
3/10/05, 01:55 PM
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There is a guy that has the formula somewhere. Swears that all his motors that he breaks in this way run perfect and make the most power.
How many of us are going to keep this car forever? I think a good amount of us will be trading them in when warranty is coming up anyways...
How many of us are going to keep this car forever? I think a good amount of us will be trading them in when warranty is coming up anyways...
3/10/05, 02:35 PM
#7
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Quick question? Last time you bought a used vehicle, no matter how many miles were on it, did you ask the person if they broke it in according to manufacturers specs? I didn't think so. I can't say that I've ever asked that question. Must not be as important as some are intending it to be, or that would be your #1 question when you bought a used vehicle....and of course the reply would be "of course"
I bought my 05 GT on 10/20, and on 10/22...I had already taken a 200 mile trip earlier in the day and was at the drag-strip that night, w/ about 300 miles on it.
-So you probably wouldn't want to buy mine if it was for sell, since it wasn't broken in properly, but will probably still last as long as any other 05 out there.
-Not trying to be a smart-a_s, but just making a point that it sounds like it is a pre-cautionary thing.
I bought my 05 GT on 10/20, and on 10/22...I had already taken a 200 mile trip earlier in the day and was at the drag-strip that night, w/ about 300 miles on it.
-So you probably wouldn't want to buy mine if it was for sell, since it wasn't broken in properly, but will probably still last as long as any other 05 out there.
-Not trying to be a smart-a_s, but just making a point that it sounds like it is a pre-cautionary thing.
3/10/05, 02:45 PM
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Man- I think this is a great issue. I have about 200 miles on my car now. I have been holding back (some what). Some people even tell me to wait unitl I have 1000 miles before I throw a tune and CAI on. Hmmm...anyone? 
Jay
Jay
3/10/05, 04:20 PM
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2005MustangGT,
The reason no one is asked how they broke in a used car is because there not a single thing you can do about it other than rebuld the engine and start over the way YOU want to break it in. It's just not that important at THAT time.
max2000jp,
You are partially right. The parts you mention DO need to break in somewhat. But frankly, they are a LOT less important than the rings.
Why? Because the clutch and the brake shoes are CONSUMABLE parts. You have the fun joy of replacing them many times before you replace the rings in an engine. And the ring and pinion do not have a whole lot of break in. And what break in does happen takes a LONG time.
My statement was basically that taking it to the track was BETTER than going easy on it for the first 1k, 2k miles. Personally, my car will be broken in on the highway using the accelleration/decelleration method. It will not impact the clutch life, brake pad life (not actually used...), or the ring and pinion. But it will make a big difference in how the rings seal up 1000 miles down the road and more so 100k miles down the road.
Finally, if you do take your car to the track for breakin, I would NOT suggest 6k rpm launchs and trying to set a new track record! I sure wouldn't power shift either. Launch at a "normal" rpm and shift normally, but squeeze the loud pedal hard! You should have PLENTY of runoff to shutdown without killing your breaks.
I know what I'm going to do. I know what I believe. I know WHY I believe it. Do your research and come to your own decisions.
The reason no one is asked how they broke in a used car is because there not a single thing you can do about it other than rebuld the engine and start over the way YOU want to break it in. It's just not that important at THAT time.
max2000jp,
You are partially right. The parts you mention DO need to break in somewhat. But frankly, they are a LOT less important than the rings.
Why? Because the clutch and the brake shoes are CONSUMABLE parts. You have the fun joy of replacing them many times before you replace the rings in an engine. And the ring and pinion do not have a whole lot of break in. And what break in does happen takes a LONG time.
My statement was basically that taking it to the track was BETTER than going easy on it for the first 1k, 2k miles. Personally, my car will be broken in on the highway using the accelleration/decelleration method. It will not impact the clutch life, brake pad life (not actually used...), or the ring and pinion. But it will make a big difference in how the rings seal up 1000 miles down the road and more so 100k miles down the road.
Finally, if you do take your car to the track for breakin, I would NOT suggest 6k rpm launchs and trying to set a new track record! I sure wouldn't power shift either. Launch at a "normal" rpm and shift normally, but squeeze the loud pedal hard! You should have PLENTY of runoff to shutdown without killing your breaks.
I know what I'm going to do. I know what I believe. I know WHY I believe it. Do your research and come to your own decisions.
3/10/05, 05:37 PM
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Originally posted by RRRoamer@March 10, 2005, 6:23 PM
2005MustangGT,
The reason no one is asked how they broke in a used car is because there not a single thing you can do about it other than rebuld the engine and start over the way YOU want to break it in. It's just not that important at THAT time.
max2000jp,
You are partially right. The parts you mention DO need to break in somewhat. But frankly, they are a LOT less important than the rings.
Why? Because the clutch and the brake shoes are CONSUMABLE parts. You have the fun joy of replacing them many times before you replace the rings in an engine. And the ring and pinion do not have a whole lot of break in. And what break in does happen takes a LONG time.
My statement was basically that taking it to the track was BETTER than going easy on it for the first 1k, 2k miles. Personally, my car will be broken in on the highway using the accelleration/decelleration method. It will not impact the clutch life, brake pad life (not actually used...), or the ring and pinion. But it will make a big difference in how the rings seal up 1000 miles down the road and more so 100k miles down the road.
Finally, if you do take your car to the track for breakin, I would NOT suggest 6k rpm launchs and trying to set a new track record! I sure wouldn't power shift either. Launch at a "normal" rpm and shift normally, but squeeze the loud pedal hard! You should have PLENTY of runoff to shutdown without killing your breaks.
I know what I'm going to do. I know what I believe. I know WHY I believe it. Do your research and come to your own decisions.
2005MustangGT,
The reason no one is asked how they broke in a used car is because there not a single thing you can do about it other than rebuld the engine and start over the way YOU want to break it in. It's just not that important at THAT time.
max2000jp,
You are partially right. The parts you mention DO need to break in somewhat. But frankly, they are a LOT less important than the rings.
Why? Because the clutch and the brake shoes are CONSUMABLE parts. You have the fun joy of replacing them many times before you replace the rings in an engine. And the ring and pinion do not have a whole lot of break in. And what break in does happen takes a LONG time.
My statement was basically that taking it to the track was BETTER than going easy on it for the first 1k, 2k miles. Personally, my car will be broken in on the highway using the accelleration/decelleration method. It will not impact the clutch life, brake pad life (not actually used...), or the ring and pinion. But it will make a big difference in how the rings seal up 1000 miles down the road and more so 100k miles down the road.
Finally, if you do take your car to the track for breakin, I would NOT suggest 6k rpm launchs and trying to set a new track record! I sure wouldn't power shift either. Launch at a "normal" rpm and shift normally, but squeeze the loud pedal hard! You should have PLENTY of runoff to shutdown without killing your breaks.
I know what I'm going to do. I know what I believe. I know WHY I believe it. Do your research and come to your own decisions.
3/10/05, 06:00 PM
#12
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Originally posted by RRRoamer@March 10, 2005, 5:23 PM
2005MustangGT,
... Personally, my car will be broken in on the highway using the accelleration/decelleration method...
2005MustangGT,
... Personally, my car will be broken in on the highway using the accelleration/decelleration method...
3/10/05, 06:09 PM
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3/12/05, 01:40 AM
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emperorjordan, I think I read the exact same link you did for the break in method, and I've tried a couple times to find it again and haven't had any luck. I'd really like to do the same thing to my car when I get it, so finding it would be a good thing. Maybe I'll give google another chance tonight.
3/12/05, 01:52 AM
#16
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I found it! This guy actually did this and tested it on motorcycles, but it should apply to cars as well. Of course, read all he has to say first, and do what you feel is best for you and your car.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3/12/05, 02:02 AM
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Drive it like you stole it 
or baby it for 1000 probably makes very little difference anymore. You can see there are two very rational answers that are diametrically opposed, so the rules of logic say "do what you like", and stop loosing sleep over it. 
or baby it for 1000 probably makes very little difference anymore. You can see there are two very rational answers that are diametrically opposed, so the rules of logic say "do what you like", and stop loosing sleep over it.
3/12/05, 06:31 AM
#18
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Originally posted by jayguy@March 12, 2005, 2:55 AM
I found it! This guy actually did this and tested it on motorcycles, but it should apply to cars as well. Of course, read all he has to say first, and do what you feel is best for you and your car.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I found it! This guy actually did this and tested it on motorcycles, but it should apply to cars as well. Of course, read all he has to say first, and do what you feel is best for you and your car.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Actually, the method for bedding in brake pads (in another thread here somewhere) is very similar to what this guy is advocating. Both methods recommend the same thing - accelerate, decelerate (but don't stop), and repeat the cycle, except the bedding in approach requires hard use of the brakes. So, you could kill two birds with one stone, if you believe in this approach.
3/12/05, 10:12 PM
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Drive it strongly, but not stupid, for the first couple of hundred miles. Then just drive it, any way you like.
I'm a proponent of "drive it like you stole it". I drove it to redline the first day I had it, but I'm not stupidly holding at redline either.
It's a car, not a dollhouse.
I'm a proponent of "drive it like you stole it". I drove it to redline the first day I had it, but I'm not stupidly holding at redline either.
It's a car, not a dollhouse.