Nitrous tuning Info.....and nitrous tip's in gen.
9/30/05, 02:54 PM
#1
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I'm in the process of developing my tune with a Diablo Sport "Chipmaster/Revolution's" Tuner. I am trying to learn all I can about Nitrous so I don't blow anything up. This is my first experiance with nitrous and I'm learning alot. Thank's mostley to member's on TMS. 
Here's what I've learned so far:
1. Tuning is everything!!!
2. While on the juice you want your A/F ratio around 12.1
3. While on the juice you want your timing at WOT around 26-27 deg.
4. Optimum bottle pressure is 900 psi
5. You can use a bottle heater to raise bottle pressure
6. A general rule of thumb is to retard 2 deg. of timing for every 50 HP of Nitrous to maintain 26-27 deg of total timing at WOT
7. You don't want to bump into your rev limiter while spraying as it would pull fuel and be a very bad thing...
8. Don't spray until 3,000 rpm or above
9. Purge your nitrous system before use to be assured your using pure nitrous
Any one with nitrous experiance feel free to add anything. I would greatly appriciate tuning advise... Thank's to those that help.
Here's what I've learned so far:
1. Tuning is everything!!!
2. While on the juice you want your A/F ratio around 12.1
3. While on the juice you want your timing at WOT around 26-27 deg.
4. Optimum bottle pressure is 900 psi
5. You can use a bottle heater to raise bottle pressure
6. A general rule of thumb is to retard 2 deg. of timing for every 50 HP of Nitrous to maintain 26-27 deg of total timing at WOT
7. You don't want to bump into your rev limiter while spraying as it would pull fuel and be a very bad thing...
8. Don't spray until 3,000 rpm or above
9. Purge your nitrous system before use to be assured your using pure nitrous
Any one with nitrous experiance feel free to add anything. I would greatly appriciate tuning advise...
Thank's to those that help.
9/30/05, 03:03 PM
#2
Make double sure you are always running your nitrous tune when you are going to spray.
Also another way to initially bring bottle temps up so that your bottle heater doesnt have to work as hard, take the bottle out, put about 5" of hot water in your bathtub and let the bottle sit in there for a bit. I used to have a fitting that went on my bottle where the line hooks up, and i could open the bottle to see the pressure without having it hooked to a line. The warm bath would get my bottle into the 1100psi range in less than 10min.
Also another way to initially bring bottle temps up so that your bottle heater doesnt have to work as hard, take the bottle out, put about 5" of hot water in your bathtub and let the bottle sit in there for a bit. I used to have a fitting that went on my bottle where the line hooks up, and i could open the bottle to see the pressure without having it hooked to a line. The warm bath would get my bottle into the 1100psi range in less than 10min.
She think's I'm mental already...
9/30/05, 08:32 PM
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My A/F ratio is 12.0-12.1 on the wideband. My total timing is 22 degrees. When we did the dyno tune we had the timing at 26 degrees then dropped it to 22. This change made the same HP but lowering the timing made 10 ft lbs less torque. We decided to play it safe and keep it at 22 degrees.
9/30/05, 08:51 PM
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Originally posted by Vegasjay@September 30, 2005, 12:57 PM
I'm in the process of developing my tune with a Diablo Sport "Chipmaster/Revolution's" Tuner. I am trying to learn all I can about Nitrous so I don't blow anything up. This is my first experiance with nitrous and I'm learning alot. Thank's mostley to member's on TMS.
Here's what I've learned so far:
1. Tuning is everything!!!
2. While on the juice you want your A/F ratio around 12.1
3. While on the juice you want your timing at WOT around 26-27 deg.
4. Optimum bottle pressure is 900 psi
5. You can use a bottle heater to raise bottle pressure
6. A general rule of thumb is to retard 2 deg. of timing for every 50 HP of Nitrous to maintain 26-27 deg of total timing at WOT
7. You don't want to bump into your rev limiter while spraying as it would pull fuel and be a very bad thing...
8. Don't spray until 3,000 rpm or above
9. Purge your nitrous system before use to be assured your using pure nitrous
Any one with nitrous experiance feel free to add anything. I would greatly appriciate tuning advise... Thank's to those that help.
I'm in the process of developing my tune with a Diablo Sport "Chipmaster/Revolution's" Tuner. I am trying to learn all I can about Nitrous so I don't blow anything up. This is my first experiance with nitrous and I'm learning alot. Thank's mostley to member's on TMS.
Here's what I've learned so far:
1. Tuning is everything!!!
2. While on the juice you want your A/F ratio around 12.1
3. While on the juice you want your timing at WOT around 26-27 deg.
4. Optimum bottle pressure is 900 psi
5. You can use a bottle heater to raise bottle pressure
6. A general rule of thumb is to retard 2 deg. of timing for every 50 HP of Nitrous to maintain 26-27 deg of total timing at WOT
7. You don't want to bump into your rev limiter while spraying as it would pull fuel and be a very bad thing...
8. Don't spray until 3,000 rpm or above
9. Purge your nitrous system before use to be assured your using pure nitrous
Any one with nitrous experiance feel free to add anything. I would greatly appriciate tuning advise...
Thank's to those that help.Okay, a few things...
Ideal psi is set by the manufacturer's claimed horsepower numbers and the jets they use. For instance, NX claims 100hp to the rear wheels IF your psi is set correctly between 1000 and 1050 and if you use the .052 (n20) and .028 (fuel) jets for the 3v engine.
NX also suggests to not spray before 2000rpm.
When purging the system, its common place to burst the momentary switch 3 times with a 3 count for each. This will no doubt clear the lines for clean power juice.
You are pretty much right on for everything else.
A note though, if you have any engine (power) more mods than a nitrous system equiped for a 100shot and a decent short ram intake, be prepared to lift your foot in 4th gear at about 4000rpm when the converter locks up in an automatic. I know this from experience and dyno tuning is a must to "combat" this.
-Dan
9/30/05, 10:12 PM
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Anything under 900 psi isnt considered good, youre pushing it. Nitrous gauges tend to have color zones, the 800-900 is yellow, 900-1100 is green and anything after that is red.
I've had my gauge pegged once on the other side of 0 (~2000+psi) cause my friend didnt turn off the system switch after he was playing with the purge function. The blanket was on and the valve was closed, BANG BANG could have happend but I got lucky that I checked when I did before it had a chance to get any higher.
-Dan
I've had my gauge pegged once on the other side of 0 (~2000+psi) cause my friend didnt turn off the system switch after he was playing with the purge function. The blanket was on and the valve was closed, BANG BANG could have happend but I got lucky that I checked when I did before it had a chance to get any higher.
-Dan
9/30/05, 10:16 PM
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That's good to know. I just installed my gauge and I have purged the system quite a bit checking everything and playing around with it. 
I'm at about 1100 psi right now without turning on the heater's...So at 900 psi or so the fun stop's until a refill.
I just installed my gauge and I have purged the system quite a bit checking everything and playing around with it. I'm at about 1100 psi right now without turning on the heater's...So at 900 psi or so the fun stop's until a refill.
9/30/05, 10:36 PM
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Originally posted by Vegasjay@September 30, 2005, 8:19 PM
That's good to know. I just installed my gauge and I have purged the system quite a bit checking everything and playing around with it. I'm at about 1100 psi right now without turning on the heater's...So at 900 psi or so the fun stop's until a refill.
That's good to know.
I just installed my gauge and I have purged the system quite a bit checking everything and playing around with it. I'm at about 1100 psi right now without turning on the heater's...So at 900 psi or so the fun stop's until a refill.-Dan
10/23/05, 02:13 PM
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First of all this is why i went with the Zex system.It comes on only at WOT from your TPS censor.The heating blankit kit has a thermostat and you could leave it on all day with no problems.
I have done everything bad that could happen with no brakage eccept melting 4 spark plugs.I down shifted into second the other night at the track at over 100 mph with NOS on full.Overreved.backfired,and skidded.Nothing broke thank God.
If you get the Zex kit you must get the racers tunning kit also.Comes with Heater.Purge System,Vent system and Pressure gauge.
I have done everything bad that could happen with no brakage eccept melting 4 spark plugs.I down shifted into second the other night at the track at over 100 mph with NOS on full.Overreved.backfired,and skidded.Nothing broke thank God.
If you get the Zex kit you must get the racers tunning kit also.Comes with Heater.Purge System,Vent system and Pressure gauge.
10/23/05, 02:15 PM
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I also almost made my first run on my motor only tune with the 150 shot.As I was moving up in staging lanes it all of a sudden dawned on me that I did not load the NOS tune.That would of been devastating.leave checklist in view next time.
10/23/05, 02:16 PM
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This is the result of wrong tune for 150 shot.
10/23/05, 02:24 PM
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Originally posted by mikem@October 23, 2005, 2:19 PM
This is the result of wrong tune for 150 shot.
This is the result of wrong tune for 150 shot.
10/23/05, 02:27 PM
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Originally posted by Blazing Saddles@October 23, 2005, 2:27 PM
Make sure your fuel system is adequate for the HP shot. I ran the 125 shot and got some surging in 4th gear. I suspect the stock fuel pump is not up to snuff.
Make sure your fuel system is adequate for the HP shot. I ran the 125 shot and got some surging in 4th gear. I suspect the stock fuel pump is not up to snuff.
10/23/05, 02:37 PM
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Originally posted by Vegasjay@October 23, 2005, 2:30 PM
I seen that Zex makes a boost-a-pump, I wonder if that would do the trick...
I seen that Zex makes a boost-a-pump, I wonder if that would do the trick...
My stock battery is not up to the task. I had problems running 2 bottle heaters, the water pump, and running the high speed fan. The battery has died twice on me at the track. I bought an Optima D-34 battery today. I hope that solves the problem.
10/23/05, 03:16 PM
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Originally posted by Vegasjay@October 23, 2005, 3:01 PM
Those batteries are great! You should be able to run all your goodies now. Is that model the red top or yellow?
Those batteries are great! You should be able to run all your goodies now.
Is that model the red top or yellow?