New Rear Suspension ideas
#1
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New Rear Suspension ideas
Ok i am ready to start working on my rear suspension and rather than spend alot of money now on swaybars, control arms, and panhard bar. I would rather just kick it all off with a watts link. Since it has been some time since the first watts link was released for the S197 i would like to hear from you guys. Which is the best kit out right now? I have seen the Saleen kit from JDM and it looks solid enough, but will the center bolt really hold up to track days and just daily abuse? How is the Fays2 kit working out for most of you, is it really worth putting on? I am looking for the best bang for the buck and ease of install, there are not really any shops down here that are willing to do suspension work on a car unless its to replace stock with stock or to make it go in a straight line better. So with that said this is going to be a weekend project for me.
#2
Seen multiple center bolts break on my buddy's Saleen setup during race days. Another friend has a Fays2 and it's been rock solid for over 2 years of competition use.
#5
Team Mustang Source
The Steeda is supposed to be a very stout piece but talk to Sam Strano and he will tell you what to get based on your needs. Griggs is probably overkill on a street car that is sometimes tracked. JMO~
#6
Fays2, Steeda or the Griggs unit are the only ones I would consider. The Fays2 is all rod-ended, so it will be a bit noisier (especially with time as the rod ends start to rattle a little). I would tilt towards the Steeda...
#7
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The fays 2 is a rock solid unit for the most part.
The good.
-Durable
-Very adjustable
-Easy maintenance
The bad
-Noisy sometimes.
-Way too much adjustment options. (rod length, propeller height, angles on the axle tubes)
The only maintenance I do to my unit is to spray wd40 on the rod end bearings. Yes they are teflon lined. Then I cover the rubber orings with grease to kind of seal the whole shebang. The downside is that the bolts could potentially come loose even with lock tight as the wd40 is essentialy a penetrating oil and its difficult to spray the bearing withough soaking the bolts.
Basicaly depending on the roads your looking at a general checking up on it every couple of months or so and oiling it up, then every year or so I would recomend taking a tourque wrench to it and making sure all bolts are still tight. The noise is not too bad unless your moving slow through a fubard parking lot.
Mine is a DD, and thats what I do. So far so good. Over a year on the road, mostly truble free after figuring a few things out. Worth every penny. Especialy if your roads are uneven.
As for diy install, its entirely possible with a set of jack stands and a set of truck straps to center out the axle. Get the measuring tape out and go to town. I would also recomend you replace the UCA at the same time. The stock one has allot of play, and the tolerances of adding a watts link make for a very frustrating time adjusting everything withought hitting as the pumpkin of the axle can actually hit the propeller, then its a game of keeping the sway bar from hitting the tubes of the watts link.
The good.
-Durable
-Very adjustable
-Easy maintenance
The bad
-Noisy sometimes.
-Way too much adjustment options. (rod length, propeller height, angles on the axle tubes)
The only maintenance I do to my unit is to spray wd40 on the rod end bearings. Yes they are teflon lined. Then I cover the rubber orings with grease to kind of seal the whole shebang. The downside is that the bolts could potentially come loose even with lock tight as the wd40 is essentialy a penetrating oil and its difficult to spray the bearing withough soaking the bolts.
Basicaly depending on the roads your looking at a general checking up on it every couple of months or so and oiling it up, then every year or so I would recomend taking a tourque wrench to it and making sure all bolts are still tight. The noise is not too bad unless your moving slow through a fubard parking lot.
Mine is a DD, and thats what I do. So far so good. Over a year on the road, mostly truble free after figuring a few things out. Worth every penny. Especialy if your roads are uneven.
As for diy install, its entirely possible with a set of jack stands and a set of truck straps to center out the axle. Get the measuring tape out and go to town. I would also recomend you replace the UCA at the same time. The stock one has allot of play, and the tolerances of adding a watts link make for a very frustrating time adjusting everything withought hitting as the pumpkin of the axle can actually hit the propeller, then its a game of keeping the sway bar from hitting the tubes of the watts link.
#8
Shelby GT350 Member
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hmm sounds like the Fays2 is a good kit. And the noise does not really get to me seeing as i am running offroad H-pipe and Pypes Pype-Bomb muffler deletes.
#9
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!
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Call Sam Strano. He will be honest with you and is also a dealer for all of them. Great thing is he has had hands on experience with just about every (if not all) of the different units on the market so he can give you an unbiased opinion from a fellow enthusiast!
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