SeanD

Hi,

I am going to install my rear Eradispeed Plus 2 rotors with new pads later today and I need some guidance on how to successfully compress the rear caliper. I have the special caliper tool from Harbor Freight and have the right adapter that fits into the groove of the caliper, but for the life of me I cannot get the claiper compressed enough so that the new pads slide over the rotor. It just needs to go in about 1/8-2/8", but it will not budge. I remvoed the e-brake cable from the claiper, but that did not help. Is there any other way. Would opening the bleeder valve help at all? IF I did that would I have to bleed the brakes afterwards?

Sean

jaguarking11

Wondering if you opened up the brake fluid res? That will definitly help. If you crack open the bleed screws then you need to properly bleed the brakes. Depending on how long ago they were blead, that really helps a bunch on brake feel too.

SeanD

Brakes were bleed maybe just a month ago as I installed the new front Baer Pro+ kit, along with new stainless steel lines all around. I have the Motive Power Bleeder kit, along with Russell Speed Bleeder valves on all calipers, so bleeding the system after is not a big deal.

Glenn

you need to twist the rear piston in using the tool. I used a some needle nose plyiers last time I had to do it. Push and twist

felixbed

You get that special tool, sears has it, and just turn and turn and turn until the cylinder in compressed in. Take the cap off the brake reservior.

Glenn

autozone has the free rental tool. I did mine this weekend and used the needle nose pliers again. You do have to turn it more than a few times. I had some duralast pads that I could not get on there for the life of me. So I returned them. Guess I will look for some hawk pads

Lime GT

Wow, two of you with pads that don't fit. Wonder if the aftermarket is using the wrong spec or if there is a model change up on the pads for different years.

azoufan

For me, I had to push HARD on those rears to make them compress. I must have turned and turned and turned for an hour with nothing. Stupid Harbor Freight tool kept slipping, I almost stripped it. It was so bad that I literally think I may never replace the pads on this car again. Worst. Brake Job. Ever.

RHuckster

Hmmm..the tool from harbor freight worked great on both my rear brakes.

Rick

jaguarking11

I used the autozone rental tool. It didnt work well intialy and I had to use the compressor which both turns the piston and pushes it. After that I was able to just turn the piston in, it took about 5 min per caliper for the rear, the front's were dead easy as the brembo calipers slip right in and the calipers were already loaded.

Make sure to bed in the brakes properly. The new rotors looked like a large record with machine marks on them. After bedding in they were perfectly smooth.

SeanD

I'm probably not going to be able to properly bed them in this season, as the car will be going for its winter bed soon.

with Baer brakes you have to "season" the rotors and bed the brakes. The procedre is almost identical for both.

JedCranium

Sean I used this kit from Harbor Freight..

Piston Compression Kit>



It works better than that square tool because it adds down turning force to the piston. As you compess the piston keep an eye on your fluid level so that it doesn't spill over.

Here's a link to my Photobucket install of the same kit your doing hope it helps you.

Baer EradiSpeed kit>

Scruffy281

That is the tool to use. I tried the cube tool on the rear of my 03 and it ended up getting tossed into the street.

The boxed kit above is a night and day difference.

SeanD

Thanks Jed. I have the earlier version of that kit from Harbor Freight. It came in a red box with just one of the compressor tools.

The biggest issue I had with my rear calipers is that the piston would not compress at all, no matter what. I had to removed the caliper from the car and remove the bleeder and brke line. After that the piston compressed in. I didn't want to do that, as it caused me more work, since I had to bleed the brakes again. I have the same Motive bleeder as you, so that helped get it done fast.

What do you think of the EBC Redstuff pads? I just put in Hawk HPS pads in the rear, and used the Baer pads that came with the Pro+ front kit. I was thinking of using EBC, as they help in the bedding procedure, but couldn't source them out quickly here in the Great White North!

Sean

RHuckster

Thats the tool I used, the blue case. Seemed to work nicely plus the fact that with all the adapters I can use it for other cars as well.

Rick

JedCranium

I think Hawk HPS and EBC-RS are very comparable to each other. I do like the bed in coating on EBC's. I initialy bought Hawk but the pair I got was defective so I returned them and went with EBC. Since these were for the rear I didn't think I need as aggressive pad for mostly street and occasional track driving. The heat range where the EBC-RS pad operate in was perfect for the style of driving I do. No regretes funny too I met the EBC girl at Barrett Jackson in Orange County.

CO_VaporGT_09

I fried a set of EBC redstuff on the rears at a track day this summer, ground to nothing, started w/ 3/4 pad. Little dust, though, and very quiet, so good for the street.

Any and all of the pads should fit if using stock thickness rotors (not sure about the Eradispeed, may be a bit thicker?) and any pad designed for the car. The trick is fully collapsing that piston til flush with the surrounding metal, which isn't always too easy to do. Sometimes using the disc as a wedge on the inner pad will get it loosened up enough to allow that tool to work better.