Import-Slaya

Yep, fairly common.

My left mount started popping over the winter--it was expected, particularly with the extra negative camber I run from the Steeda billet adjusters (I was warned by Steeda that more negative camber set at the strut to knuckle junction will accelerate the stress on the factory strut mount bearings) and the amount of open track use and autocross the car saw (only has about 11,000 miles on it, but most of that mileage has not been easy on the suspension...).

I now have the Maximum Motorsports pieces and they are a great design--in fact, I'll be installing them in the next few days. Not sure if the caster adjustment is *needed*, but it is nice to have it. Another good option is that is similar in design to the Steeda plates, but gives more adjustment range, are the J&M plates. $230 at americanmuscle.com. The MM plates are about $90 more.

For your alignment--listen to SoundGuy. No need to pay someone. For $60 you can get the MaximumMotorsports camber gauge--I have it and it works great. Another option that I'm going to try is using my new Craftsman digital torpedo level. Got it for Christmas (they are always on sale for ~$25 now) and it should work very well for camber checks.

For toe, just run a length of fishing line parallel to your wheels on both sides of the car (I use 2 jackstands per side to hold the line up). Make sure it is the same distance from each wheel hub, then measure your front wheel rim distance from the string at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and compare differences to get your toe.

Glenn

I define failing as not working any more. The stock mounts making noise is common and according to ford the popping noise is common and does not affect its ability to proform correctly. Its basically just an anoying noise we can do without.....if we have the cash to put in to it.
I haven't seen one case where the stock mounts failed to do their job. I'm not saying it has not happened just that I have not seen it

Cavero

Well I gave CR a call and ordered the parts:

Steeda Sport Springs
Tokico D-SPECs w/remote adjusters
BMR front swaybar
BMR Bumpsteer kit
BMR LCA
BMR LCA relo brks
Steeda Billet Upper strut mounts

Unfortunately I missed out on the spring sale so most of the parts were at list price, the D-SPECs were a good deal but other than that it was std. pricing. Oh man I can't wait till this stuff comes in and I can install it!

blkstang06

Your going to like that setup !....Your Stang won't seem like the same car.....

Cavero

Thanks man, I hope I will! It probably won't seem like the same car since the suspension's only going to be 20% the original! I'm pulling that number out of <colorful metaphor here>.

I've got the Tokico's, the LCA's, LCA relo's, BMR anti-roll (thats all they had in stock and I couldn't wait), and the upper strut mounts all in today. Now I'm just waiting on the springs, remote adjusters for the D-SPECs, and bumpsteer kit and I'm good to go! I think I'll install the swaybar and LCA's tomorrow while I'm waiting for the rest. Oh man, this excitement is like Christmas...

Cavero

Eh...looking at this installation, I'm starting to feel that natural intimidation. I mean, the swaybar and control arms, that's kid's stuff. I can have that done tomorrow afternoon. But the springs, struts, and ESPECIALLY the ALIGNMENT are really getting me thinking about my own abilities here. Aside from what's in TacoBill's installation How to's, does anyone have any good tips? Especially alignment and upper-strut mount info

blkstang06

Tip, remember your doing this for fun and enjoyment, so take your time double check everything and make sure you torque everything to spec !

SoundGuyDave

That one's on the nose...

A couple of other tips: pull the front brake calipers off the knuckle to make life easier, and rent a real spring compressor. Those $30 "MacPhereson Strut Service Tools" are essentially useless.

Glenn

I rented a spring compressor from autozone. Take it one step at a time. Bill's write ups are pretty good and we are here for you also. If you want take your new springs, struts and strut mounts to just about any near by shop and have them put them together for you. That is probably the scariest part of installing your list of parts. The spring compressor Bill used is different than the one I got from autozone.

Cavero

Thanks for the tips guys, now lets keep 'em coming! I'll torque them to spec, but i'm a little hesitant to trust the torque wrench after the last one broke grade A bolts off in the diff cover.

Glenn, how would you compare the autozone tool from the one Bill used?

As far as the installation process goes, I kicked it off today with the front swaybar. I was pretty disappointed at first when I saw the stocker and the BMR piece were the exact same diameter and indeed, looked very much the same. The BMR's ends did look beefier, but I wasnt expecting any kind of difference with it installed. I couldn't torque the endlinks to spec because the massive AmPro torque wrench wouldn't fit between the strut and the swaybar, so I tightened it as far as it would go under my own body weight.

Took it for a test drive and I'LL BE DAMNED. It actually makes a very appreciable difference. Turn in is definitely sharper, the steering feels a little more responsive and the car leans a lot less in moderate turns! Now hit a real hairpin, and it still rolls, but only 2/3 of what stock does (that's a very rough guess). And that's on the middle setting. But that brings me to my next question:
which set of holes are the stiffer setting on this thing, the inner (furthest forward when bar is installed) or the outside (furthest rear)? I couldn't figure it out and neither Steeda nor BMR's websites nor instructions say which setting is which.

SoundGuyDave

The forward holes will get you stiffer response from the bar. Just make sure you don't go too far with it and wind up with even worse understeer than you have now... FWIW, I have mine on the middle setting, and with the BMR springs and rear bar, the car's reasonably well balanced.

05BlackGT

Shorter the bar, higher the rate (stiffer).

Glenn

these are the ones I got from autozone

there are a bunch pictured here
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...mpressor&gbv=2
you could also remove the top center nut on the strut and then jack the car up .... no compressor needed.

SoundGuyDave

Yes, you can... That's exactly what I wound up doing when the *$&#(#* tool that I picked up didn't have the compression range I needed...

Put the car up on jackstands, put a jack under the control arm, loosen the strut-top nut, and then SLOWLY lower the jack down. Once the jack goes slack, take up just a touch of tension, pull the top strut-to-knuckle bolt, then loosen the bottom one. Lower the jack slowly, and keep your hands clear. The knuckle will want to kick out at some point, so be careful. Once you have full slack on the jack, remove the bottom strut-to-knuckle bolt, and pull out the strut and spring. Then pull the strut mount nuts and remove the strut bearing.

Assembly is the reverse. For a first timer, though, I would suggest pulling the completely assembled strut, and taking them to a shop for the swap. There's enough tension in the spring to startle, break parts (like the brake line if you don't pull the caliper), or injure (pinched finger) if you're not careful and really understand what's going to fly where...

Glenn

I didn't remove the caliper but I was carefull to make sure all that was supported when I did the job

Cavero

Cool, thanks for the info. I'm considering my options right now for the actually installation, etc. I have a local mustang tuning shop ready to do the work, but it doesn't look like its going to be cheap ($150 to disassemble the old strut assemblies, move the jounce bumpers and dust shields onto the new ones and put those together, another $150 for an alignment if I go that route). I'm probably going to tackle the springs myself, but the alignment I might leave to the pros. Plus that alignment includes marking the car with street and autocross settings so I can change the camber myself.

In other news, I put the BMR LCA's in. I only got 1 good burnout before it started raining. So far, so good. no wheel hop yet.

Cavero

Dave, I was planning on compressing the spring once the total strut assembly was removed. Like you said, I don't want it breaking loose and damaging other parts in its vicinity...including parts of me! The garage I'm going to be installing the parts in has a wall mounted spring compressor but the tech at the mustang shop said he was over there a couple years ago and said it looked really sorry. I have to see what it looks like in person before I make the decision on who's compressing them.

I tried out my LCA's in the rain and SON OF A B*)(%#. Tons of wheel hop like I never did anything. Once the roads dried off, it was all under perfect control again. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone have any experience with the Energy Suspension Urethane UCA bushings BMR sells? They say its a 5 piece bushing, the inner set is high durometer to control wheel hop and the outer bushings are softer to allow axle articulation to help maintain corning. Here's the URL and a picture. Besides that, what kind of bushings to the aftermarket UCA's have?

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangSUSPENSION.htm

GIG4FUN

I just ordered my D-spec w/adjuster kit from Tillman. I'm sure glad to read this forum once in a while. For this deal I actually "logged in" haha

I have the Roush rear springs (actually my entire car is a Roush kit knock-off) and really wonder what the best front/rear anti-sway bars would be. I like the Roush suspension kit as it tested 1.02 G's so I wonder if I should buy theirs to get that or if something else would be every bit as capable. I already substituted the D-specs. Suggestions for bars guys? I want a corner carver.

SoundGuyDave

Cavero: As far as the "wheel hop" issue in the wet, are you sure it's wheel hop and not just a spin? Are you feeling a violent juddering, or are the tires just blowing off? A few people have put the differential bushing in, and reported NO CHANGE whatsoever, so I would hesitate to recommend that as a possible fix. In the end, high horsepower cars and wet weather are just not a great mix. It can be done, but it's not that much fun.

Gig: If you have the Roush kit under your car, I would stick with them and get their bars as well. I'm a firm believer in matching springs and bars, unless you have the budget and facilities to perform serious testing.

Cavero

Dave, believe me, I know wheel hop. Violent juddering is a pretty good description. It feels like I could leave some paint cans in the trunk and they'd be ready mixed after a few burnout attempts in the wet. Or some ziplock bags with chicken and breading...SHAKE... AND BAKE! Thanks for the tip on the bushing, I'll stick with stock UCA unless I find my pinion angle's outa whack.