Need Help w/Pypes O/R H-Pipe Install
Need Help w/Pypes O/R H-Pipe Install
I started to install a new set of the Pypes O/R H-Pipe last night and it has turned into a nightmare so far. I seem to have a few problems:
1) The flanges/ball joints that mount to the factory headers have a gap once the nuts are tightened down. I read on here that someone used hi temp RTV and this corrected his problem.
2) The driver's side O2 sensor wire is about 2" too short and will not plug in.
3) Lastly, the passenger side rear half of the H-Pipe will not slip into the front half more than about 1/4" and this is not allowing the hanger to slide into the mount and it is offsetting the "H" and putting the end of the pipe way too far back. I used a pair of channel locks and pried open the forward fitting , but I can only open it up to the end of the slits.
I have not tried calling Brenspeed yet for any suggestions.
I am also doing this underneath 2 jack stands so I know that does not help my cause. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Oh yeah, off topic, but did a recent crash cause some accounts to be modified? I have been a member here for a while, but am no longer able to log in under zachcrosen; so I had to create a new account...
Zach
1) The flanges/ball joints that mount to the factory headers have a gap once the nuts are tightened down. I read on here that someone used hi temp RTV and this corrected his problem.
2) The driver's side O2 sensor wire is about 2" too short and will not plug in.
3) Lastly, the passenger side rear half of the H-Pipe will not slip into the front half more than about 1/4" and this is not allowing the hanger to slide into the mount and it is offsetting the "H" and putting the end of the pipe way too far back. I used a pair of channel locks and pried open the forward fitting , but I can only open it up to the end of the slits.
I have not tried calling Brenspeed yet for any suggestions.
I am also doing this underneath 2 jack stands so I know that does not help my cause. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Oh yeah, off topic, but did a recent crash cause some accounts to be modified? I have been a member here for a while, but am no longer able to log in under zachcrosen; so I had to create a new account...
Zach
Last edited by zachcrosen1; Nov 13, 2009 at 04:47 AM.
I called and talked to Dave (I believe) from Brenspeed yesterday about these issues. With the ball flange issue where the first half of the H-Pipe meets the header, I just needed to install the included slide in smaller ball joint fitting. Apparently, the diameter changed some time around 2008 and now Pypes includes this in their kits. To correct the driver's side O2 plug problem, I just untaped the small plastic piece that holds the plug to the existing wiring harness, pulled it to the plug on the sensor and zip tied it back to the vehicle wiring harness. Lastly, I took the 2 rear halves of the H-Pipe to a local muffler shop and have them swell the joints slightly to allow them to slide over the front halves.
Now, I have another issue due to swelling the pipes. They were slightly too large and are now blowing tons of exhaust out of them. I cranked down on the clamp bolts and it still leaks. I'm going to try to take it to someone and have the make adjustments to the pipes and have them weld the joints between the front and rear halves as well as the section that makes the H. Welding of the H is recommended by Pypes anyway.
Now, I have another issue due to swelling the pipes. They were slightly too large and are now blowing tons of exhaust out of them. I cranked down on the clamp bolts and it still leaks. I'm going to try to take it to someone and have the make adjustments to the pipes and have them weld the joints between the front and rear halves as well as the section that makes the H. Welding of the H is recommended by Pypes anyway.
Wow man, seems like you had your share of problems with what should be a rather simple project. I don't know that I'd have your patience. Hope that you're happy with everything when it's complete. Good luck.
As do I. I am going today to have everything adjusted and welded and I hope that cures everything.
Zach: as I mentioned in Taco Bill's write up--if you still have leakage at the manifold connection 'ball' joint, re-assemble there with Permatex Ultra-Copper RTV, then let the car sit without running for at least 2 hours while it cures.
I saw your post in Taco Bills write up and had written it down to buy. I wrote that before I realized the extra parts were the reduced ball joints. I had the entire Pypes pipes welded yesterday and I have no leaks anywhere that I can find. I was not able to identify any leaks around the header flanges.
I saw your post in Taco Bills write up and had written it down to buy. I wrote that before I realized the extra parts were the reduced ball joints. I had the entire Pypes pipes welded yesterday and I have no leaks anywhere that I can find. I was not able to identify any leaks around the header flanges.
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