metroplex

I was reading Department of Boost's page about motor mounts and why we should use them... The BMR MM007 looked interesting to me, but when I went to check my engine bay for clearance issues, I noticed my stock manifolds are about 3/4" from the steering shaft. Has anyone else run into any clearance issues with their stock logs and dropping the engine about 1/2"?

I'm also wondering what this does to the driveline angle, exhaust angle/hangers/connections. Wouldn't dropping the engine stress the other parts out just a tad?

My intent with dropping the engine 1/2" is to increase clearance for a supercharger and the Boss 302 strut tower brace. The Procharger inlet looks like it will not fit under the STB, while the other blowers might be a tight fit. The urethane mounts also help reduce engine movement so the shifts would be better (even though my MGW fixed a lot of the problems).

Cavero

I dropped my engine 1/2 an inch with Steeda motor mounts and never had an issue eith clearing the steering shaft. It was close but never had issues with it making contact. I never checked the driveline angle, but 1/2" is such a small amount next to the length between the motor and transmission mounts that i couldn't imagine the angle changed appreciably

metroplex

The Steeda allows you to drop it further right, to a total of 3/4"? What color Steeda bushings did you use? I heard their red bushings would compress/crack over time, requiring people to use the black bushings.

The shaft is awfully close to the stock logs, I wonder if a sudden engine shift and steering input would cause them to contact? Any issues with the u-joints on the steering shaft overheat from the manifolds?

Cavero

Yeah it has three shims that lower the engine in increments of 1/4". I initially only put the engine 1/2" lower because I was worried about hitting the steering shaft at 3/4" drop. I never had any issues hitting the steering shaft or any problems with the U-joints. Later I even dropped it down all the way to 3/4". In fact the only time I ever had an issue was right after I had long tube headers put in. A couple weeks before the install I raised the engine back to 1/2" and the shop said that was fine, there was ample clearance. I started feeling a vibration in the steering -- but only when I'd take a hard right turn. Turns out when I'd readjusted the engine mounts I didn't torque them down enough and the engine was sliding left into the steering shaft when I'd take those turns. Once they retorqued the bolts I haven't had an issue since. I'll try to get a couple pics tomorrow to show how close it is on the longtubes now.

I've been using the red bushings and they hadn't degraded at all back in March 2016 when I put the engine back at 1/2". I originally installed the motor mounts in fall 2012. That really surprised me because red urethane always seems to deteriorate pretty quick after a few years.
That said, when I put them in, I put the original rubber cap from the factory mounts over the steeda mounts to shield them. (pics to follow)

metroplex

How'd you hold the bolt for the new mounts in order to torque them down? I'd love to see the pics!

Cavero

Steeda's directions tell you to tape the assembly together until you get it bolted together. If you don't, it's possible to do by holding it (either by hand or a wrench), but it's a total PAIN IN THE ***, so just tape it . If you drop that bottom bolt and it falls down into the K-member, you'll be swearing for the next hour trying to fish it out (ok ok the first time I dropped it, it was 3 hrs)

I just checked the bushing and still just as red and feels just as pliable as it did when I installed it. I really think the dust cap helps. This is the best pic I can get right now (only shows dust caps), will try again in daylight:





Just for reference, these are my shifter bushings (made by Energy Suspension). They sat in place for 11 years until I just changed them two weeks ago. I think you can tell which ones are which. One of the front bushings was the stock material (the black one -- about the same durometer as the urethane bushings, maybe a little harder) and it was still in just as good of shape as it was in 2006.




and the rear bushing





I've seen this happen with every urethane bushing I've ever installed, regardless of whether it was Steeda (sway bars), BMR (control arms), or energy suspension (shifter). The only exception has been the engine mounts which are the only ones that're shielded from the elements

Cavero

Don't think I fully answered your question about tightening it down ...

so use tape to hold the assembly together, but the K-member has cutouts/notches in it that let you get a box wrench on the bottom bolt to hold it. You can see them in this pic:





Or this one's better




Courtesy AllFordMustangs forum

metroplex

Thanks! Great tip on the dust cap! I ordered the BMRs which show red bushings on their website, but I haven't heard of bushing failures on the BMRs. But I will use the dust caps nonetheless.

07 Boss

Man, it just seems like you are going out of the way to keep a useless STB. Yeah they look cool but basically do nothing for handling. Trust me, when you pop your hood with an SC under there the last thing they will be noticing is a strut tower brace.

If you have the stock 2-piece driveshaft it will not matter if you move the motor and stuff around as it has that center carrier bearing. Your pinion angle will remain the same but your tranny angle might move a bit. But like I said, really only makes a difference with a 1-piece driveshaft.

Compare:






I know the missing STB was not the first thing you noticed.

Bert

You're right.

It was the missing intake tube.

LOL

07 Boss

It's one of those clear ones. Looks good, don't it?

metroplex

I really like the Boss 302 STB on my 07 GT. I used to run the OEM 07 GT500 brace. My 2014 SHO came from the factory with a STB as well. If it didn't do anything, then Ford wouldn't have installed it on the SHO or GT500 at an extra expense.

Cavero

Well...extra expense probably passed onto the consumer. And probably done more for perception in the eyes of the consumer that yeah it's a high performance vehicle so of course it needs a STB.

I remember back in 2006 or 07 there was an article (was it from Steeda?) that was quoting Ford engineers as saying don't waste your money on strut tower braces. That the new S197 chassis was so much stiffer that you'd get little benefit from chassis stiffening.

I still bought the same Boss 302 STB you did though . I got it purely for looks and I rationalized it to myself that my chassis was stiff 10 years ago. It's had 100k mi of potholes, speed bumps, and twisty roads allmost all of it on stiff aftermarket springs. Surely that must've loosened things up at least a little

I'd be interested to see if you did a before and after on the angle of your transmission/driveshaft flange after you lower it. I really don't think it'll be that noticeable. I set mine after I got my 1pc driveshaft and I never adjusted it after I lowered the engine. I never had any issues, but actually measuring it will tell.

Cavero

That's too bad, that was a pretty nice STB. You're right it's definitely not the first thing you notice, but when you look at the two side by side it looks like something's missing.

07 Boss

And well that's why they put the rear spoiler on my GT. It really helps me keep the rear tires planted with all that down force. it must work well or they wouldn't have gone through the extra expense of putting it on there.

Just saying you are seeming to stress over the wrong things with this SC thing. I would be trying to figure out what clutch to run, what tires, is my suspension going to be able to plant the tires, etc. KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid. Not calling you stupid, just a saying we use. But the point is your making it more complicated than it needs to be. I understand thinking every little detail through but don't add to the equation. GT 500 pumps will be the easiest swap. Then slap that SC on there. Have you thought about if dropping the motor is going to complicate the SC install? Intake and intercooler plumbing might be off a bit now if it was set up for stock motor height. Just saying Keep it simple.

And just for FYI, the S197 chassis is much stiffer than the older new edge or fox bodies. There are many picking the front tires off the ground without sub frame connectors. That is a testament on how stiff these really are. And STB's work if their set up properly on a weaker chassis with the proper triangulation support. There is little or no flex in our strut towers. And if there is any, the STB needs to be anchored for it too work properly. Think about an box with the ends open. Pretty flimsy from side to side. Then close one end and see if it goes from side to side. It needs 3 points, with the firewall being the third, for it to be effective.

metroplex

The rear spoiler on my Chevy was tested to provide actual downforce at road course speeds. And the FR500S has a strut tower brace, as does the Boss 302/R, etc... I've heard the arguments about triangulated STBS etc, how the s197 is so much stiffer than 79-04 Fox, etc... for the past 13 years. I still want to keep the brace.

I've already got the tires and rear suspension. I know which clutch to get. I'm still not 100% sold on which blower to get if any. It seems like a lot of work to make it run about as fast as my tune only SHO daily driver. I plan to do the small things and just wait and see on the blower. It's the details that get you in the long run.

07 Boss

That's completely fine if you want to keep the brace, they do look nice under there. The blower will give you room to expand if you want more power down the road since you're looking at a relatively lower HP number. If you get a complete kit and not a tuner kit, all of the details should already be ironed out. I threw some extras in on my build but if I would have just went with the kit by itself it would have been complete with no hassles. Before you start upgrading the little things I would have a definite plan in place. Yes details matter, but a complete kit should take care of all of that. That is why I was asking about not complicating it any more than you have to. To be honest, I think the best way to go is to just get a whole K-member in there. They make them with the option of lowered motor mounts. Plus the extra strength will make the front end stiffer. The amount of room gained under there too is phenomenal if you are ever thinking about putting headers in and you can actually reach the starter. I wish I would have put it in earlier in my build than when I actually did.

And I'm sure your chevy spoiler is not the same as ours. The point was just because they add something to a car doesn't mean it is actually a performance upgrade.