Thanks guys. Videos are up, check them out!!

I got pretty detailed on this one because after seeing other write-ups, there were alot of unanswered questions. I was like, "Well, where does that connect to?.. Which way does that go on?.. Shifter link who?? What's that look like??!!".. etc., etc., you get the point.


Alan, if you have the tools and the means to safely work under the car, I have the upmost confidence that you can do it yourself (although an extra hand never hurts!). Don't set a time limit on yourself, take your time and don't rush it. Do each step one by one and before you know it, you'll be ready for the test drive.


Tom & Brian, here's my experience with the Saleen adapter.. getting into 4th and R was always a bit difficult. And yes, it could have been from the link nut being on too tight. But, I was hesitant in loosening it any further. I probably had only 1 thread protruding past the plane of the nut, and for a link that's constantly moving everytime I shift, I was always a bit nervous that the nut might fall off. I think it's on the mind of everyone with the Saleen adapter.
The Saleen adapter does shorten the throw without a doubt, and for $45, it's a great product for what it is. However, it never gave the feeling or sensation of achieving a 'positive engagement' when shifting. This MGW shifter hits each gear with precision and authority.

 

I agree with Bill. You can do it. The MGW install also appears to be much easier than say the Hurst install because you can do it in two pieces per the write up(I think the Pro5.0 is the same way). I showed my dad the write up this evening and we both would have loved to been able to have the MGW when I installed the Hurst(although I got the Hurst at a discounted price).

Over all as long as you can get under the car safely, jack stands, and follow the awesome write up you will be A-OK. As Bill told me, you'll care more for your car than some mechanic will and you will make sure it's done right.

 

Hey Bill, am I an idiot for not blue loctiting anythere but the shift linkage?

 

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Top notch write up....as usual!

 

I think that if you Loctite anything, the nut that attaches to the shift link stud (the one that goes through the MGW adjustable block (with the black arrow)) is the most critical for 2 reason, it doesn't have a lock washer nor does it get tightened down all the way.

In my install, I only have around 2 threads showing. Attachment 23504

All the other critical fasteners use the MGW suppied lock washers.
Only reason why I still Loctited those is because I had the bottle handy.

 

Really nice job Bill. I hope mine's on it's way soon.

 

bill,

this is the only thing i think you need to be aware of . the lock nut on the linakge SHOULD be locked down tight!!! it is designed to actually seat againsat the rod just prior to locking down on the urethane bushings. you should get on them as if you were tightening down a bolt normally. do not leave it loose.

the nut also is a lock nut which is why ford did not need a lock washer. look at the end of the nut carefully and you will see 3 little prongs sticking inward into the threads. the blue loctite is definielty a good added safety measure i just wanted to make sure no one leaves the nut loose when installing it.


regards
george

 

Thanks for the clarification, George.

I edited step 21 with this important note.

Also edited step 14A to note the shift stops.

 

Bill this write up is awesome!!!! I wouldn't be surprised if company's started sending you free products in exchange for write-ups like this one that they could use!

 

Outstanding job Bill. The videos were the pièce de ré·sis·tance!

With that Hurst **** on there, you have the ultimate shifter. Makes me want to ditch my Hurst and swap it for the MGW - the Hurst is better than stock, but not perfect as it takes approximately twice the effort to shift. From your video, it looks like the MGW takes no more effort than the stock shifter. Is that true?

 

An outstanding accomplishment? I like that!

The only extra effort comes from the left-right (centering) springs, but that's mostly from not being used to it. Like I mentioned in my 'First test drive impressions', the springs are strong, but not overbearing. Also, being a performance short throw shifter, it is a little notchy, which gives it that positive shift reaffirmation.

 

Thanks for the write-up, Bill. I used it yesterday, while cross referencing the ones from MGW, and the install went smooth as silk.

 

Bill , man you've done it again , thanks ...

 

Thanks Bill, I used your write-up in conjunction with George's instructions to get mine installed Saturday.

I did it with ramps up front and jack stands in back. The hardest part for me was tightening the 2 bolts on the block that holds the trans support shaft. There was only enough room for 1 click at a time on the ratchet, and it took forever.

I've got the shifter stalk about as low as it would go, but it's still sitting up a good inch or so higher than it was before, but I've already gotten used to that. And the shifter is definitely an improvement. I went 9 turns out on the bottom, and I am quite content with that.

 

Awesome write up Bill....I used it from start to finish....you deserve a free shift **** or something for your work......

The only thing I would add to the instructuions is how to get the shifter base thru the hole in pushing down on the base until the front clears the opening; like it states in the MGW instructions.....took me awhile to get that sucker in the hole.....of course I could of read the instructions before I tried it.....who uses them instruction things anyway.....lol

I also found it easier to get the Dynomat Sound Barrier around the square base by cupping the material up and starting the front edges down around the square....didn't need any tool to guide the edges over when the material was cupped up.

thanks again....you make these mods. easy....

hags1

 

Where did you get that ****, it looks sweet!!

 

Any Hurst dealer should be able to order one.

 

I'll be referencing this write up this wekeend while installing mine!

 

Drew (and others installing the MGW shifter from here on out), MGW has made a few changes/revisions. Please note the changes below and substitute them with the Step #'s in the write-up.

I'll take pics this weekend of the revisions and edit the original write-up sometime next week.

Step 11: Skip. MGW is now shipping with new blue bushings already installed in the shifter block.

Step 12: No Dynomat required on the INSIDE of the car. Replaced by a thin rubber insulation pad that rests on top of the trans tunnel, then the thicker foam insulator pad on top of it.

Step 14: Throw adjustment is now 0 -10 turns MAX. This results in a throw reduction of 20 to 50% from stock. FYI.. I have mine set at 5 turns out which is about a 35% reduction.

Step 17: New underside Dynomatting procedure. Cut pieces in such a manner where it makes a 90deg fold ('L' shape) to the shifter assembly base to the body, completely sealing off any heat/noise from entering the cabin.

Step 28: No longer required to align shift handle slit to opening of shifter handle block. It will tighen no matter how the slit is clocked allowing rotational orientation of shift handle once it's tighen down all the way.