lowering springs/shocks: MOST COMFORT COMBO
#1
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lowering springs/shocks: MOST COMFORT COMBO
hi all.
im looking to get eibach pro kit to lower and find matching shocks or keep STOCK shocks..
I want to get feedback from people on their experiences.
I want the nice lowered look of eibach but at the same time, i would love to preserve some COMFORT when driving.
I plan on getting 20" wheels with 255/35/20 tires...
Any suggestions? experiences?
Any other springs? will stock shock be good enough?
thanks very much!!
im looking to get eibach pro kit to lower and find matching shocks or keep STOCK shocks..
I want to get feedback from people on their experiences.
I want the nice lowered look of eibach but at the same time, i would love to preserve some COMFORT when driving.
I plan on getting 20" wheels with 255/35/20 tires...
Any suggestions? experiences?
Any other springs? will stock shock be good enough?
thanks very much!!
#2
I have the pro kit with stock springs and the factory 18" wheels. I am happy with the ride, you feel bumps slightly more but honestly I can't tell much of a divverence from stock which I was very happy with. However if you go with the 20s and 35 series tires in addition to the prokit I suspect your ride comfort will drastically decrease.
#3
I have the Pro-kit with Tokico Dspecs and it's just as bumpy/comfortable as stock. Like Scott said, it's not too bad.
You can always get adjustable dampers and turn them all the way out for that really soft "dont want to feel the bumps" feel.
You can always get adjustable dampers and turn them all the way out for that really soft "dont want to feel the bumps" feel.
#4
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I have the pro kit with stock springs and the factory 18" wheels. I am happy with the ride, you feel bumps slightly more but honestly I can't tell much of a divverence from stock which I was very happy with. However if you go with the 20s and 35 series tires in addition to the prokit I suspect your ride comfort will drastically decrease.
i wish they made more 19" wheel options!
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what adjustable dampers do you recommend? i think that is a great idea!
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I hate to bust your bubble, but lowering and comfort is an oxymoron. The two do not go together. When you lower your car, you instantly reduce the amount of bump travel, that means you need stiffer springs to dissipate or control the same energy is less distance (before you bottom out the suspension on the stops ... something you will instantly recognize when it happens). With stiffer springs also comes the need to have stiffer shocks to dampen the stronger recoil of a stiffer spring.
Having said that, the recommendations above are good if you can accept that comfort is not the main criteria.
Having said that, the recommendations above are good if you can accept that comfort is not the main criteria.
#7
I've got Eibachs and stock struts and shocks right now. At first it was acceptable. After a few months, it isn't anymore. No problems on smooth roads, but the rebound on rougher roads is a killer with the stock units and after awhile kind of grates on ya
I'm puttin in the FRPP shocks and struts this weekend, I'll let you knlow what I think
I'm puttin in the FRPP shocks and struts this weekend, I'll let you knlow what I think
#8
Tokico D-Spec is your best, and probably only choice, unless you were to go with a full coilover system. I really can't understand why anyone would go to the trouble of changing dampers and not get adjustable ones. The D-Specs are infinitely adjustable from softer than stock to competition hard so the entire spectrum is covered.
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To give you an idea of how soft I can set the D-Specs I've attached a picture of my car at JDM day earlier this month. Keep in mind that this car has full roadrace suspension. A full list of parts is available by ckicking on my webpage.
Before installing the D-Specs the car felt like a pogostick when going over expansion joints. I can now make it feel like a cadillac or a stock car in 5 minutes.
When lowering be sure to trim the rear bump stops down by 1 or 2 notches.
Before installing the D-Specs the car felt like a pogostick when going over expansion joints. I can now make it feel like a cadillac or a stock car in 5 minutes.
When lowering be sure to trim the rear bump stops down by 1 or 2 notches.
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I hate to bust your bubble, but lowering and comfort is an oxymoron. The two do not go together. When you lower your car, you instantly reduce the amount of bump travel, that means you need stiffer springs to dissipate or control the same energy is less distance (before you bottom out the suspension on the stops ... something you will instantly recognize when it happens). With stiffer springs also comes the need to have stiffer shocks to dampen the stronger recoil of a stiffer spring.
Having said that, the recommendations above are good if you can accept that comfort is not the main criteria.
Having said that, the recommendations above are good if you can accept that comfort is not the main criteria.
#11
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I've got Eibachs and stock struts and shocks right now. At first it was acceptable. After a few months, it isn't anymore. No problems on smooth roads, but the rebound on rougher roads is a killer with the stock units and after awhile kind of grates on ya
I'm puttin in the FRPP shocks and struts this weekend, I'll let you knlow what I think
I'm puttin in the FRPP shocks and struts this weekend, I'll let you knlow what I think
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To give you an idea of how soft I can set the D-Specs I've attached a picture of my car at JDM day earlier this month. Keep in mind that this car has full roadrace suspension. A full list of parts is available by ckicking on my webpage.
Before installing the D-Specs the car felt like a pogostick when going over expansion joints. I can now make it feel like a cadillac or a stock car in 5 minutes.
When lowering be sure to trim the rear bump stops down by 1 or 2 notches.
Before installing the D-Specs the car felt like a pogostick when going over expansion joints. I can now make it feel like a cadillac or a stock car in 5 minutes.
When lowering be sure to trim the rear bump stops down by 1 or 2 notches.
i would love my car to feel like a bmw m3 i used to have....
handles great..but wasn't hard HARD when i drove around...still some comfort for everday driving..
#13
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Tokico D-Spec is your best, and probably only choice, unless you were to go with a full coilover system. I really can't understand why anyone would go to the trouble of changing dampers and not get adjustable ones. The D-Specs are infinitely adjustable from softer than stock to competition hard so the entire spectrum is covered.
how much are coilovers? is that a more comfy ride?
thanks!
#14
i would not trade my d-specs for anything. get them you will not be dissapointed. as long as you are doing the springs you will have your front ones off & your rear ones 1/2 way off. this way you will only have to do one re-alignment.
#15
Final Thoughts
Raves:
- On a racetrack or autocross, this suspension works pretty well
- Car stay pretty flat when entering a corner and stays fairly planted coming out.
- Addresses all the issues and at a very fair price
Rants:
- On the street it is rough, not shake loose a kidney rough, but after 3 or 4 hours most of us are done.
- The factory sway bar end link kept coming loose. No loctite, nylon nut, or lock nut has fixed it yet.
- No instruction. No tech support. No phone number. No email. You are on your own.
Raves:
- On a racetrack or autocross, this suspension works pretty well
- Car stay pretty flat when entering a corner and stays fairly planted coming out.
- Addresses all the issues and at a very fair price
Rants:
- On the street it is rough, not shake loose a kidney rough, but after 3 or 4 hours most of us are done.
- The factory sway bar end link kept coming loose. No loctite, nylon nut, or lock nut has fixed it yet.
- No instruction. No tech support. No phone number. No email. You are on your own.
#16
I think it is smart to lower and then see where you stand and then decide what to do next. All this talk about spending big $ on d-specs may seem totally uneeded to you based on your driving style. I lowered mine did nothing else and am completely satisfied. Had I changed the struts the first time through I feel it would have been a waste of my money.
#17
Yeah, it's not a bad thing to do it in steps to see where you are most comfortable with it. I had mine lowered with stock struts for 6 months, but the rebound on little bumps in the road started drivin me crazy. I put the FRPP shocks and struts in yesterday....MUCH better, and cheaper option than D-Specs, epecially if you have a "friendly" FRPP dealer in your area
As far as the "kit" not having instructions.... well does one really need any
Came with all new hardware and cam bolts for camber adjustment.
HOWEVER:
The supplied cam bolts come with the eccentric on the outside of the bolt. This requires the mounting holes to be reamed out before installation.
Most aftermarket cam bolts come with the eccentric built right into the bolt thus not requiring any modification to the strut itself. Ditch the supllied cam bolts and go with the Eibach bolts, or any other cam bolts for that matter. That was kind of a boneheaded move on Multimatics/FRPP part if you ask me.
As far as the "kit" not having instructions.... well does one really need any
Came with all new hardware and cam bolts for camber adjustment.
HOWEVER:
The supplied cam bolts come with the eccentric on the outside of the bolt. This requires the mounting holes to be reamed out before installation.
Most aftermarket cam bolts come with the eccentric built right into the bolt thus not requiring any modification to the strut itself. Ditch the supllied cam bolts and go with the Eibach bolts, or any other cam bolts for that matter. That was kind of a boneheaded move on Multimatics/FRPP part if you ask me.