Ok Guys hear is the Answers.
BMR stuff
TCA019Has poly. bushings on both ends Nonadjustable.This si what you want for mostly street with somw track.
TCA022 Has poly. bushing on one end and spherical rod on the other.No adjustments
TCA021 Has poly.bushing with spherical rod and are adjustable.
TCA020 Are full race with spherical rods on both ends with no poly bushings and are fully adjustable.

The poly bushings dont alow noise to drone from rearend into body of car and lets the rearend have a little float for a smooth ride.If you use spherical rods like i have,You will hear every noise that comes from the rearend and the rear will make alot of banging sounds.Its metal to metal *****.
The ones with one of each is what i would recomend for most of you Guys.i dont realy drive mine so the harshness of the race ones dont bother me.But if i had to commute i would definately be unhappy.Hope this helps.

 

My stock bushings were cracked all the way through at only 6k. The factory bushings are terrible..IMO. Just a thought for those still running those..

 

would be cool if someone made new stupid bushings for the stock control arms

 

So what do the lower relocation arm brackets do?

 

I second what he said...get the poly/spherical combo style. The single poly bushing will insulate driveline noise somewhat and the spherical will eliminate most suspension bind. It will be a little noisier than stock but you probably won't hear it over your exhaust and/or radio upgrades!

See Spohn Performance, Inc's p/n M5-206 (equiv to BMR TCA020)

And for the upper 3rd link: BMR's UTCA020 (spherical), Spohn's M5-603 (spherical), or Metco Motorsports's MUC2005 which has a poly bushing and a swivel action to eliminate suspension bind.

 

I plan on going to the track after I get my tune and gears installed. After this I plan on going to the track at least once a month. So should I spring another 100 bucks and get the BMR with poly and spherical ends, or just stick with the poly ended piece. Cleveland said he got rid of the noise with a shot of WD-40. Since the transmission is already louder than poo how much more noise should I expect?

 

They allow you to adjust the angle that the LCA sits at which alters the vehicle's "Instant Center" which I think affects the vehicle's ability to squat and transfer weight to the rear tires during launch.

Try digesting this info: http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/La..._A_Drag_Car.htm

 

I upgraded to poly only and noticed a slight increase in "road noise" from the suspension. It wasn't a lot but I did notice the change. I don't anymore. The transmission is still the noisiest like you said. For me, the reduction in wheel hop was more than worth the slightly noisier suspension. As for the poly/spherical combo, my gut tells me that it won't be as noisy as full spherical and shouldn't be much noisier than poly/poly but will better allow for suspension "flex" than poly/poly does. I'm planning to upgrade my current poly/poly to poly/spherical.

PS. You can get Spohn poly/spherical adjustable LCA's for about $215

 

I do not agree with this at all. My BMR poly control arms are noisey. So much so that I am going to put sound matting on the floor. Purchase this posters BMR Pollys and then he can upgrade to more noise and you can save a few bucks.

 

the relocation arm brackets also permit running some seriously fat rubber

 

Degree of noise is highly subjective. I've got Steeda's billet LCAs...maybe they're quieter than BMRs

 

I get the feeling it may be car specific in some cases. I have the BMR poly and there is a *sliiiiiggghhhtt* increase in a faint rear axle whine. I only noticed it because I was really listening for it. And I have very sensitive hearing--yes, I'm one of those freaks who thinks the stock exhaust is almost too loud.

It sounds like some cars have somewhat noisier rear ends than others due to variations in the gear setup. The stock lc arm bushings are really squishy and absorb a lot of this noise--if you have one of the whinier rear ends (that didn't sound right... ), all bets are off if you go to an aftermarket setup.

My recommendation would be to try the poly ones--fairly inexpensive ($115 shipped) and a very easy install if you have a set of jackstands and a jack.

 

Road noise is also transmitted through the control arms and panhard bar into the body...bumps, cracks, rough surfaces, etc. and if your unsprung weight is heavier than stock (rims, tires) that will compound the problem..but yes, stiffer suspension parts will accentuate any driveline noises as well. Note too that the stock panhard has some sort of damping material inside it to absorb noise/vibrations and the aftermarket panhards do not (except for Ground Control's).

 

So for a daily driver and an occasional track run, whats the best suspension parts to eliminate wheel hop??

I'm running 13.2, I know i can get in the 12's, but it just hops at the line..

 

BMR lowers with poly/poly. $115 shipped--can't go wrong.

 

what about LCA relocation brackets?? Do they help with the LCAs? are they recommeded for a daily driver? Is welding required for those kind of brackets?

Also What about Drag Shocks, are the beneficial? And are they good for an everday driver?

 

The relocation brackets help make the lower arms work even better. They are also a good idea if you lower the car, because they help to correct the geometry. There are three options that I know of: BMR (Weld in only, offers two settings), CHE Performance (Bolt in, only one setting), and Metco (Bolt in, only one setting, and they say they only work with their lower arms). I have the CHE's and they fit well and seem plenty strong. I haven't been able to really, really test them since I installed them, but I can tell that they have helped the way the car launches. With good tires or slicks I think the difference would be amazing. By the way, my car is a daily driver and they don't have any negative effects on anything else. The only time you know they are there is when you launch hard.

 

Jason, Is there any benefit to installing the relocation brackets for the LCAs (I have BMR Tubular LCAs) on an 05 that has otherwise stock suspension (non-lowered)?

 

Even with your car at the factory ride height the instant center can be improved with a set of relocation brackets. They just make a bigger difference on lowered vehicles.

Lee Spicher
lee@bmrfabrication.com
(813)986-9302

 

Yes, adjustable rear shocks can make a difference. I bought QA1's from BMR. If you know your car, you can adjust the shocks to have the car squat the way you want and open the adjustment up for a smooth ride around town. The relocation brackets helped me get my instant center back after lowering. I opted for the BMR brackets due to having 2 positions and not knowing exactly what I'll need down the road. They can be welded in very easily and wouldn't cost too much to have done. If you're visiting the track occasionally, go with the poly/poly. I currently have the Steeda billet ones, but will be getting the BMR poly/solid adj. ones the next time I go over towards BMR's shop. If you've experienced wheel hop at all, on the street or at the track, you should get some LCA's to avoid potential damage. There's just something that feels wrong when it seems like a tooth filling is about to come out from wheel hop. Metco's are expensive!