Line Locks
1/2/06, 02:49 PM
#41
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Dustin was bored today
[attachmentid=42018]
I'm going to rest it on the seat here and use velcro to attach to the side of the center console. I'll probably use a bracket so it attaches below the seat so the velcro strip is unseen.
[attachmentid=42019]
Still no idea how I'm going to wire it to the car as far as connectors go. The CPC connector is the most foolproof way of doing it unless somebody else has a better idea. I need 4 wires I think to do it.
Radio Shack parts list
2750601 SAFETY SWITCH, QTY: 2
2720332 PK2 12V LAMP ASSY (RED LIGHTS)
2750011 SPST PUSH ON/OFF
2701806 PROJ BOX 6X4X2
2720337 PK2 SNAPIN GRN (GREEN LIGHTS)
cost $21.84 (so far)
Mike you want me to make you one?
[attachmentid=42018]
I'm going to rest it on the seat here and use velcro to attach to the side of the center console. I'll probably use a bracket so it attaches below the seat so the velcro strip is unseen.
[attachmentid=42019]
Still no idea how I'm going to wire it to the car as far as connectors go. The CPC connector is the most foolproof way of doing it unless somebody else has a better idea. I need 4 wires I think to do it.
Radio Shack parts list
2750601 SAFETY SWITCH, QTY: 2
2720332 PK2 12V LAMP ASSY (RED LIGHTS)
2750011 SPST PUSH ON/OFF
2701806 PROJ BOX 6X4X2
2720337 PK2 SNAPIN GRN (GREEN LIGHTS)
cost $21.84 (so far)
Mike you want me to make you one?
1/2/06, 05:12 PM
#42
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Originally posted by Blazing Saddles@January 1, 2006, 10:44 PM
I used a 30 amp relay to control the line locks. I ran the ground wire off the relay into the console with a momentary switch so I wouldn't have to hack into the cars existing wiring.
I used a 30 amp relay to control the line locks. I ran the ground wire off the relay into the console with a momentary switch so I wouldn't have to hack into the cars existing wiring.
1/2/06, 06:58 PM
#43
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Originally posted by dustindu4+January 1, 2006, 11:11 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dustindu4 @ January 1, 2006, 11:11 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>I was thinking about just running it direct from the fuse box using a mini fuse add-a-line. How many amps does the roll control use? It can't be that much.
[/b]
[/b]
The fuse in the kit is rated at 5 amps. The switch in the kit is rated at 10 amps. It only takes a half an amp to actuate the relay. This gives you an opportunity to use a switch thats more stylish.
<!--QuoteBegin-Mongoose@January 2, 2006, 6:15 PM
Like I said "Smarter than the average bear" Only need one wire too!
[/quote]
Thanks Bill. The gears between my ears are always turning.
1/2/06, 07:00 PM
#44
Mach 1 Member
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1/2/06, 07:13 PM
#45
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by nonsensez9@January 2, 2006, 9:03 PM
that looks pretty cool. Are you an electrician by trade? I'm wondering if the electrical in the center console can be hacked into. Then run a loose line to a button switch velcro'd to the console at the upper left of the cupholder. Then the switch and cable can be tucked away when not in use.
that looks pretty cool. Are you an electrician by trade? I'm wondering if the electrical in the center console can be hacked into. Then run a loose line to a button switch velcro'd to the console at the upper left of the cupholder. Then the switch and cable can be tucked away when not in use.
You actually can tap into the wiring in the center console if you really want to. There's a spare plug under there in my car for a lighter socket, not sure why it's there. Anyway you could draw power off of that if you really want to. I like my electrical mods to have their own circuits by using an add-a-line. That way nothing gets overloaded and problems are easier to diagnose.
As the relay goes, I don't think I need it since it's 5 amps and the switch is rated at 20A VDC.
For the low speed fan I'm going to run the wire from the engine bay to the switch and then to a ground.
1/3/06, 04:23 PM
#46
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Originally posted by Blazing Saddles@December 29, 2005, 10:01 AM
I found a way around this. The problem is with the stock steel line that goes to the rubber line. The flare nut is too short. It won't fit into any standard fittings.
I cut the flares off the stock lines and removed the short flare nuts. I then peeled back an inch and a half of the black covering on the lines. I got a pair of longer flare nuts at Pep Boys and slid them onto the stock lines and double flared them. Now the stock lines will fit any standard fitting.
I then cut and bent the line that goes from the line lock to the rubber hose and installed the stock flare nuts on the end that goes to the rubber hose.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this then you should consider buying the kit from Pauls HP.
1. The new flare nut added to the stock line.
2. The stock flare nut added to the new line.
I found a way around this. The problem is with the stock steel line that goes to the rubber line. The flare nut is too short. It won't fit into any standard fittings.
I cut the flares off the stock lines and removed the short flare nuts. I then peeled back an inch and a half of the black covering on the lines. I got a pair of longer flare nuts at Pep Boys and slid them onto the stock lines and double flared them. Now the stock lines will fit any standard fitting.
I then cut and bent the line that goes from the line lock to the rubber hose and installed the stock flare nuts on the end that goes to the rubber hose.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this then you should consider buying the kit from Pauls HP.
1. The new flare nut added to the stock line.
2. The stock flare nut added to the new line.
Mike E
1/4/06, 07:49 PM
#47
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Hooray for my new Ford service manual DVD. Mike and George, or anyone else for that matter, if you need ANYTHING off the service manual DVD let me know what you specifically want to do and I'll pull the .pdf(s) off of it and email it to you. The only trouble is I don't have a DVD-rom in my computer, only at work and at my parent's house down the street so it may take some time.
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1/25/06, 12:54 PM
#51
Originally posted by dustindu4@January 25, 2006, 11:54 AM
Has anybody done this yet? I'm looking for part numbers on the brake fittings
Has anybody done this yet? I'm looking for part numbers on the brake fittings
1/25/06, 01:54 PM
#53
Originally posted by dustindu4+January 25, 2006, 12:46 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dustindu4 @ January 25, 2006, 12:46 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>Funny guy
I don't know the first thing about working on brakes[/b]
I don't know the first thing about working on brakes[/b]
Hmmm... so who said the following a month ago in this thread. I figured you were all over it and I've been waiting to read about your successful installation.
<!--QuoteBegin-dustindu4@December 30, 2005, 8:36 AM
wow that's really easy
I'm doing it[/quote]
1/25/06, 03:13 PM
#55
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by don_w@January 25, 2006, 3:57 PM
Hmmm... so who said the following a month ago in this thread. I figured you were all over it and I've been waiting to read about your successful installation.
Hmmm... so who said the following a month ago in this thread. I figured you were all over it and I've been waiting to read about your successful installation.
1/25/06, 04:08 PM
#56
Aaaahhhh... I can't wait that long. haha
1/25/06, 04:37 PM
#57
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How did you end up wiring the box for your switches. I'm thinking about doing the same box and using a cat5 cord as the connection. Would be more than enough wires, and you could put a connector in the side of the console that you could unplug when you don't need it.
Jason
Jason
1/25/06, 05:46 PM
#58
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by jskwarek@January 25, 2006, 6:40 PM
How did you end up wiring the box for your switches. I'm thinking about doing the same box and using a cat5 cord as the connection. Would be more than enough wires, and you could put a connector in the side of the console that you could unplug when you don't need it.
Jason
How did you end up wiring the box for your switches. I'm thinking about doing the same box and using a cat5 cord as the connection. Would be more than enough wires, and you could put a connector in the side of the console that you could unplug when you don't need it.
Jason
I don't think a CAT5 cable can handle the 5 amps needed for the line locks. Guaranteed that can only handle 1 or 2 amps. You only need 4 wires.
I got some 4 conductor 16 AWG service cord and I'll be using that. I can probably use 18AWG or maybe smaller but I'm not a fan of electrical fires and might as well go overkill. Basically I'm still trying to decide where to mount the receptacle. I think I'll make a bracket for it under the passenger seat (I haven't even looked under there yet) and run the wires through the center console. That way I can plug it in from the driver's seat instead of the passenger foot well. I'll leave enough slack for the seat to move back and forth freely.
I won't know for sure what I built works until it's warm enough for me to do some wiring. Maybe I'll try to do some this weekend. I'll run the wires for the fan switch at least. I have yet to order the components for socket, etc.
1/26/06, 08:29 AM
#59
9 is not my lucky number.
Thread Starter
I find this reference helpful
http://robrobinette.com/flare_brake_line.htm
http://classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake/
lots more on google
http://robrobinette.com/flare_brake_line.htm
http://classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake/
lots more on google