07 GT/CS

A while back I posted a thread about LCA brackets. I decided to go with the CHE ones since they seem to be the beefiest. However, I was set on getting the BMR non-adjustable LCA's. I read every thread I could find on LCA's and the opinions were across the board. However, recently there has been some more discussion about the J&M LCA's as well. So, back to the drawing board. Here is something I found out on materials that has me wondering:

Steeda LCA's - "Chrome Moly alloy steel" with "Steeda's exclusive bushing package" is how they are described on the site. The bushings look to be a two-piece polyurethane with a steel washer and are non-greasable for $134.95.

Stangsuspension - "Strong steel tubing" with "Three piece polyurethane bushings". No mention of chrome molly and the bushings have a round polyurethane piece in the middle for a three-piece setup and are non-greasable for $173.43

CHE - "Heavy Duty Steel Tubing", no mention of chrome molly, with "Unique Delrin/Polyurethane bushings eliminate the need for grease fitting" that look to be a three-piece setup with two polyurethane bushings, a delrin bushing, and a crush sleeve for $129.99

J&M - "...round, not rectangular steel tubing..", no mention of chrome molly and a two-piece polyurethane bushing that is supposedly greasable for $114.99.

BMR - "...control arms are TIG welded and utilize either greaseable 90 durometer spiral fluted polyurethane bushings..." with no mention of chrome molly, or any metal materials. Greasable two-piece bushings though for $134.95.

Spohn Performance - Two options, mild steel or chrome molly. Appear to be two-piece polyurethane and are greasable. The mild steel runs $120.00 and the chrome molly is $160.00.

Ford Racing - SVT lower control arms claim "increased bushing durometer and stiffness" but appear to be the same rubber as the stock ones and the steel looks to be the same design as stock but looks like it is slightly beefier for $131.95 (M-5538-A).

Ford Racing - FR500C lower control arms with no mention of metal construction but are tubular and appear to be non-greasable two-piece polyurethane bushings for $671.00 (M-5649-R).

So the questions are these:

1. Is there going to be any difference in longevity and durability between the apparently mild or regular steel construction and the chrome molly? Obviously the chrome molly is stronger, but will it really make a difference? Is there any chance of bending or twisting the mild steel LCA's?

2. What about the bushing construction. Most do not have the ability to grease them. Is this going to matter? The CHE claims they will never need lube, is this also true for the other non-greasible bushings that are polyurethane and a steel crush tube only?

Am I over analyzing this? Probably, and all of them, with the exception of the absolutely absurd Ford FR500C pieces, are similar in price. I figure since they are all close, price isn't an issue, but longevity and durability are the goals.

don_w

Although I disagree (the Steeda brackets were my choice), whatever LCA bracket you get, make sure you have them welded in. I've seen too many out there bend/break when they are just bolted in.


In a word: Yes!

07 GT/CS

I looked at the Steeda ones, but from the picture on the site, they look very flimsy. Do you have a better pic of them? I can tack mine in since I have a MIG welder so I do plan on doing that as well.

don_w

No sorry, no pics, but they are about 1/4" thick. And having 3 adjustment holes was the clincher. It gave me lots of options for dialing in my launch set-up.

07 GT/CS

You know, another thing I noticed with most of the LCA bushings that are polyurethane is that they are larger in diameter on the outside than the edge of the round radius end of the arm. There was another thread I read where one member kept having that edge cut into by the bracket and had to replace them with his BMR's. I think the company said that the bushings were too soft and sent stiffer ones (http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...&highlight=lca) but I notice the CHE bushings taper down and do not exceed the radius of the bracket. I wonder though if the larger bushings decrease twisting while the tapered ones would not.

WaltM

In my quest for maintenance-free LCAs, I started this...
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=473546

Some of the member feedback may be helpful!

Hatchman

Got the CHE, seem to work great.

07 GT/CS

I did read your thread and in fact, posted a question for one of the members. It seems the J&M's are popular, but I would like more info on the steel part. From what I have read so far, most folks are lubing theirs and forgetting it afterwards with no problems no matter what the brand. If lubrication isn't an issue for any of them, the question then for me becomes whether the chrome molly steel is needed. I suppose they are all better than the crappy stock ones.

WaltM

From my experience with high end bicycles, chome-moly is lighter and stronger than standard steel tubing. I don't know If it's weight savings and strength are worth the extra cost, or be overkill in this application. But pretty much any aftermarket LCA is better than stock.

I'm also not 100% sold on the "lube it and forget it" idea. At some point these need maintenance. I've read that guys actually drill and push in zerk fittings so they can lube them at regular intervals. I also called J&M and asked why they didn't install fittings. They said they've seen 7 year old installs that were still "going strong" and didn't require re-lubing, but I don't believe everything I hear.

soitsav6

here's my $ .02 worth, not sure if you are throwing down 600 to a 1000 rwhp or running mostly at the track drag racing, but for an average owner I think any of the ones you have mentioned will work fine for you, most of us have greased them on install and left alone with various miles and all is still well, if in 2, 4 or maybe even 5 years you have to grease them, so what, a little maintenance is not a problem, also, if you have to replace them in a few years, (which some have better warranty than others) so what, its 125. bucks, I say just buy whichever ones appeal to you the most, good luck either way.

07 GT/CS

I agree that if they last 4-5 years and then need replacement, $125 isn't much. I do a lot of off-roading and my springs all have polyurethane bushings that are greasable. This allows me to keep them lubed regularly but in an off-road application, they are subjected to dirt, water, dust, etc. that a street application will not see as much.

07 GT/CS

Well, I ended up ordering the J&M LCA's. I think after looking at all the different brands, I liked the Spohn LCA's in chrome molly. However, since you have to add an additional $40 for the chrome molly over the normal steel for a total price of $160 plus shipping, I decided to try the J&M at $115 shipped first. I can't imagine the milder steel bending or the ends stretching out. If they do though and I have to replace them, I am only out $115. I like the idea of greasing them as well. I think the ultimate setup would be to have chrome molly arms, the three-piece polyurethane bushings like Stangsuspension, and be greasable. I'll run these for a while and see how they do. It seems that many on the boards here end up swapping out their LCA's several times until they find a set that they are happy with anyway.

blkstang06

I've had my J&M LCA's on for about 8 months, in fact I run a few J&M components on my 06, Quality better than most and as good as any !.....

07 GT/CS

Now I have to get replacement bolts and nuts. I figured I might as well be safe even though there seems to be quite a disagreement as to whether you have to replace them every time you remove them (torque to yield etc.).

07 GT/CS

Received my J&M's and to my surprise, they are not greasable. I also went to buy the Ford nuts and bolts but they had to be ordered. The Ford mechanic told me they just re-use the existing ones and put blue Loc-Tite on them first. Go figure...

blkstang06

mine are .....

07 GT/CS

They must have dropped the option. I sent them an e-mail, or at least to American Muscle where I bought them to ask why. I decided to install them anyway but came to a halt when I split my only remaining 18mm socket while tightening down the first side.

blkstang06

You could always put them in yourself !.....

WaltM

I called J&M and they said their design doesn't need to be greased after install. Personally, I don't believe it, so I got Steeda adjustables.

But you can always drill them and push in a Zerk fitting.

07 GT/CS

I have a tap and die set so I could drill and install a zerk fitting. I figure though that I will run the J&M's for a while since they were cheap and see how I like them. I suspect at some point I will swap them out for something better so I probably won't bother with the zerks for now. One thing I did notice on the one that I installed is that when you follow the directions for torque at 129 lbs, it really squishes the sides of the poly bushings. I worry that the edge of the round end is eventually going to work its way through the bushing lip. Now I'm wondering if the design that puts chamfers the bushing at an angle (like the CHE) so it doesn't stick out is actually a better setup.