Greetings TMS,

Got the green light to get forced induction so I've been shopping the varies models available for my 2007 GT/CS. I had set on either the Roush TVS 2.3 (roots), or Whipple 2.3 (Twin). Was leaning toward the Whipple as I understand the Twin Screw design offers more efficiency over Roots. Granted I am a full believer in Roush and know I'd be happy with the TVS if I went that route.

Now before I get distracted I wanted to hear what folks are thinking about Kenne Bell and their 2.6 kit offered by Shelby Parts.

https://www.shelbystore.com/product-...-KB-46-TSS.htm

I am only adding this to the list of potentials because it would seem that Shelby Parts is offering 20% on anything Performance Parts. Kenne Bell 2.6 plus the Shelby American Gauge Pod set (with gauges) comes out to about 1534.00 less shipped to my door over the Roush and Whipple. What I can't find much of are details on what is included with the Kenne Bell 2.6. I have read a few posts on various other forums and the go to response is Whipple over KB. Those who love it, well love it, but those that hate it really have hate for it but never a real viable answer as to why. Common theme was Customer Service and Heat build up...

This is a large investment for most so I want to be sure I am going in the right direction. Saving 1500 doesn't mean much if it costs me later on.

Thanks for the feedback and I look forward to hearing what you all think.

Cheers

Nemi

 

Personally, I really don't think you would be disappointed with either choice, as it really all comes down to personal preference (twin screw vs roots) and of course how much you can afford to spend lol. However, if you want my personal opinion? I would go with Department Of Boost as they offer GT500 Whipple kits retrofitted for all 2005-10 Mustang GT models at very competitive prices. In the meantime, I've provided you with D.O.B links just in case you might be interested?

http://departmentofboost.com/product...t450_index.htm
http://departmentofboost.com/product...harger_kit.htm

 

Hi M05fastback,

Thank you for the feedback. Since this would be my first ever forced induction system I too don't think I'll regret my choices. My wheels got turning when I learned of the 20% savings at Shelby so naturally I started 2nd guessing my homework.

As of right now 4767 shipped for a completed Kenne Bell 2.6 system would be hard to pass up. Adding the Shelby Gauge cluster still makes these deal seem almost too good to be true.

I have a few days to consider my options so I'll sleep on it. Checked out Department of Boost and there is a lot of info so I'll spend some time there.

Cheers

Nemi

 

My suggestion is, before you buy any supercharger kit for your 4.6, check out "Department of Boost" (DOB) for both the kits that they offer and the general information that they have on their website. Web address is below, they also have a fairly active FaceBook group.
http://departmentofboost.com/

DOB is real big on cooling and the article on their web site explain why that is so important for real-world performance.

They have a "group buy" going right now, to be produced and delivered in the spring, with complete kits in the $4,600 ballpark if I remember correctly. (plus installation and tuning and minor supplies and incidentals)

I have heard a lot of bad things about Kenne Bell customer service, don't know if that has improved recently, but my understanding is that Kenne Bell is worth the trouble if you are going for extreme high HP numbers which would require upgraded internals. If you are not going to upgrade the internals then the DOB setup will put you in the "sweet spot" for stock internals which is about 450 RWHP

 

Hi Bert,

Thanks for the feedback! I didn't get as much time at DOB as I wanted so I am heading over the right now to read up.

Have not made a decision yet .

 

I also recommended D.O.B to the OP and also provided him with their website in post #2
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Greetings Fellas,

Wanted to thank you both for your feedback and opinions. I looked at DOB for some time and read up. Did the same over at Kenne Bell. While I believe I'd be happy with any kit available I went with the Shelby American Kenne Bell 2.6 Stage 1. A little different that what KB would sell Shelby keeps their versions 50 state legal.

again thanks a bunch for the Feedback.

FYI,

For what its worth, I have been in touch with KB since the order and these guys are prompt, informative and courteous. I know others claim terrible customer service but I have not seen it as of this message.

 

cool, thanks for the follow-up and you're welcome -- sounds like great fun, let us know how it works out, and most importantly: we MUST see burnout video! LOL

 

I remember years ago doing a bunch of research and my final decision was a KB but I totaled my stang before I had the chance. So best of luck to you.

 

Did you ask KB if their 2.6 is fully compatible with your stock internals? It was from my understanding the 2.6 was designed more for forged internal applications. Btw: is the KB 2.6 twin screw or roots design similar to the KB which was installed by Shelby American on the 2007-09 Shelby GT500 Super Snake

 

Stage 1 and 2 are designed around stock spec engines according to KB. The Stage 3 mammoth would need some forged internals I feel however their website does say "100% stock spec engine" for the Mammoth 2.8 as well. I was limited to the Stage 1 kit by Shelby due to my California Residence. Even though the car is registered in non smog county.

 

just recieved and update from KB stating that the Shelby Stage 1 2.6 KB kit does not require forged internals.

Mustang Freak,

Glad you're around to tell the story. Totaling your car still sucks though

Cheers

 

Good to know that KB confirmed the stage 1 2.6 does not require forged internals. Therefore it appears you found the right power adder for your 2007 GT/CS from Shelby parts shipped for $4767. In the meantime, if you haven't already done so? I would most definitely look into getting collector car insurance for your ride, as you have quite a lot invested with all the mods you've done. In fact, I just recently received a quote from Grundy Collector Car Insurance for a 35k policy with an annual premium of $549.00. Needless to say, I'll be contacting my local State Farm agent to find out if they can either match or beat the quote from Grundy and if there not able? Then I won't hesitate for a moment in making the switch. That being said, it would definitely be in your best interest to look into it IMHO. Once again, congrats on your upcoming Kenne Bell 2.6 stage 1 and also keep us all posted with your progress.

-Rocky

 

Rocky Tell State Farm to beat the offer not match it!

 

just don't put a smaller pulley on it, and make sure you have a safe tune and hopefully it will be OK . . . but you are pushing the engine well beyond it's original design so there are no guarantees

I doubt State Farm will know what to do with a modified car; they probably just go by Blue Book and have no clue how to deal with modifications, I don't think you can declare a value with them like you can with Grundy . . . interested to hear what they say though

 

Grundy sounds like a good call. I'll have to check them out.

Thanks,

 

Hey there Gary, I followed your advice and spoke with my State Farm agent today about the quote from Grundy. The good news is they were able to beat Grundy's quote of $549.00 down to $496.00 annually for a 35k policy with the same coverage as Grundy. The bad news however is State Farm would require a $325.00 deductible for collision and a $100.00 deductible for comprehensive totaling $425.00. Grundy on the other hand would require a $100.00 deductible for comprehensive and a $100.00 deductible for collision totaling $200.00. Therefore under the Grundy quote my deductible would be $225.00 less than what State Farm would require despite the fact that my annual premiums would be $53.00 less than what Grundy would require. Needless to say, I don't really know which policy I'd be better off going with So in your honest opinion what would you recommend as being the better policy?

Hey Bert, I was actually able to find out from State Farm that you can declare a value under their classic and antique car insurance policy providing the vehicle is 10 years old and up and only use the vehicle on occasion for recreational purposes for which my car would qualify under. I've also attached a pdf file of the State Farm antique/classic valuation form to look at that covers their requirements. Hopefully it will post/open on here with no issues.

-Rocky

 

Well you go with the law of averages. You take the lower yearly policy based on the fact you won't have an accident. I.E. pay less yearly. But then there's always this...I just raised my deductible on my previous DD to save money and within a month hit a deer which totaled my car. You guessed it my deductible was now at $500 instead of $250 so my total check from my insurance company got reduced an extra $250!

 

That's pretty cool, I'm surprised, I guess they are more flexible than I thought! Yes the PDF file does open for me, and maybe I should consider this for my Mustang . . . it used to be my DD but now I am driving it less; but I don't have any major mods so not sure what would be better.

 

Gary, I just off the phone with my State Farm agent and apparently I misunderstood what they require for their collision and comprehensive deductibles. It's actually $250.00 for collision and $100.00 for comprehensive totaling $350.00 and not $425.00 as I previously posted. Therefore Grundy's policy would cost $150.00 less for deductibles over State Farm rather than $225.00 as I previously thought. At any rate, I'm not really all that concerned over saving $150.00 in deductibles in the event my car would end up being totaled after being hit by a deer, as that would fall under the comprehensive category and not collision anyhow. So under that scenario, my deductible would be $100.00 which would be the same as Grundy would require. Anyway after much debated thought, it appears that I'll be sticking with State Farm and will end up going with their classic car insurance.

-Rocky

If you plan on keeping your Mustang for an indefinite period of time? Then IMHO it would definitely be in your best interest to consider this, which is exactly my reason in addition to my mods for adding classic/collector car insurance to my Mustang. The best part is, it also costs less than my regular policy does in just annual premiums alone. Therefore why not go for it?