LordBritish

Can somebody test the tubes in an oven ?

That would be an accurate test.

I'm suprised the tubes are warping like that. My JLT has not done that yet.

2005RedGT

I never had this problem either. BUT ...

I also noticed that the JLT tube sat right on top of the HOT water hose. So I added some "home depot" hot water pipe insulation and it stays cool to the touch.

Now, I also had to do this with the MMR kit as well. j-stang, do you use the insulation ?

here is a link to what I am talking about :

http://www.mymustangpage.com/2005redgt/page19 (scroll to installation)

-Bryan

MTAS

Ditto - I did this from day one (thanks to your posts and pics) and no warpage problems. And once I cleaned the mating surfaces of the pipe and filter with rubbing alcohol, the filter has remained rock solid. Not sure if this is worth anything, but I have my DTP Predator tune set up to keep the coolant no hotter than 192*F or so, according to my Autometer temp gauge. Even in traffic with the AC on in SW FL heat (not that we've hit the hot times yet), it never goes above 192*F. Once I put in a 180* thermostat it will drop even more. Just a thought to toss into the mix.

Dave

sranger

The strength of PVC (as will most plastics) decreases exponentially as temperature increases. A plastic will usually lose most of its useful mechanical properties long before it actually melts. Keep in mind at 360 Degrees F it is a liquid.

Here is a site that explains how to bend PVC pipe using heat.

Info of PVC Pipe Bending...

As you can see, the optimal bending temperature is only 225 Degrees F. At any higher temperature you have to put in internal supports to prevent wall distortion or collapse. The type of distortion seen in the photos above could occure quickly at around 225-250 degrees F.

However, since this plastic has no fatigue limit, it can distort over time at a much lower temperature. All you need to distort PVC over time is a little heat (Around 200F) and constant pressure...

j-stang

Hey everyone - Thank you for the responses.

Bryan, yes I did use the pipe insulation from the begining (picture below, and yes I currently have my stock intake back on). Your reviews and setups have been extremely helpful.

Also after talking to Jay yesterday I think he has some pretty good ideasto reslove the problems.

I don't want people to ge the wrong impression here because I love the JLT cai. Everyone around here and techs at the dyno shop have commented on the performance and looks. I just comfirmed yesterday that I was getting an increase of 17-20 hp. That is really good considering I am 6000 feet above sea level. .

Anyways - I sure we'll all figure out a good fix. I am reluctant to put the new pipe Jay is sending on until I figure something out.

[attachmentid=23777]

Cheers_Jay

OkieNGa

First of all, let me say that I appreciate the fact that issues with JLT have been made public. This will ensure JLT works as fast and hard as possible to reach a resolution, and I will wait to purchase my JLT until a proven fix is in place. After all, their product, IMHO, is the best looking CAI out there.

With that said, almost EVERY product will have issues when they are initially presented to the public. Look at our choice of cars, mine is going into the shop for the second time for factory defaults, ie strut bearings (popping when u turn), squeaky brakes and the darn gas tank filling issue.

So with that, Jay is working hard to come up with a fix and has offered to take some of the products back, let's give him a break, give him a couple of weeks to come up with a fix and get off his case. :nono:

max2000jp

That was an interesting link. In the summer, underhood temps can get above the bending point while driving in the city. Maybe our engine bays get too warm for PVC to be used in this application :scratch:

LordBritish

I'm not a plastics expert so what other sort of plastic would be better for this type of application.

max2000jp

It may look ghetto, but you may want to use header wrap on the tubing to shield it from heat. I am no expert myself.

LordBritish

Heat resitant plastics:

http://researchnews.osu.edu/archive/tufplast.htm

Looks like it's still in research phase.

Dysan

I just emailed Jay back and told him that I am willing to wait for a replacement tube. I was rather upset & flustered last night after my problem. I do hope a revised pipe comes out soon so that I may put that puppy back on.

sranger

I am a mechanical engineer and there are plastics that can easly handle up to 300 Degrees F and still retain most of their mechanical properties. The types that can handle greater heat tend to be of the Actel, nylon and Polycarbon famlies.

The working temp of a plastic is a temp where most of it's mechanical properties are retained. Here are some common Plastics and their max working temps

Acetal -- 220F
Delrin ( An Acetal Based material ) -- 250
Nylon -- 220F
Polycarbonate -- 240F
PCV Type I -- 140 F
PVC Type II ( Typical PVC Pipe material ) -- 150 F
CPVC (Highest temp PVC) -- 212 F
Polypropylene -- 210 F
UHMW (High density Polyethylene) -- 180 F
PBT (Polyester) -- 200 F.
PEI (Ultem) -- 340 F.
PVDF (Kynar) -- 300 F.
Noryl -- 265 F
Teflon -- 500 F

However, all of the plastics with higher working temps are significantly more expensive than PCV tubing. I would suggest Actel or Delrin. Either should work fine and both are easly machined. However, paint will not stick to them.

Hope this helps some......

j-stang

Jeff - that is some great information. I use Jay will read this and take note.



Thanks_Jay