First thing this morning, I removed and reinstalled the MAF Sensor - tightening the sh*t out of it

I tried both my Tuners custom tune and the JLT tune this morning. I have not gotten the CEL light to come back on. Odd that has 2 times, but not now. It normally comes on after abotu 20 mins of driving or so. Now, I tried both, drove 30 miles each way with-out an issue.

My opinion is that it is probably not a lean issue. Here is why I state that, and please correct me if I am incorrect in my statements:

We have 2 a/f ratios that occur
1. The normal A/F tables used in normal driving
2. The over-ride A/F defined by the custom tune that are used in Open Loop.

If the A/F lean was occuring, then it should occur in normal driving, because it is harder to control that ratio. BUT since we can control WOT via the tune, you would think this would help identify it.

I drove the car in town and on the highway from stop to 120 MPH with no CEL. I am at a loss at the moment I will do some more driving to see if I can get the CEL to appear again.

-Bryan

 

Bryan, when you tightened the MAF, did it feel nice and snug, or did it still feel a little awkward.

I retightened mine yesterday, but am still not thrilled. Seems that when I tighten one side down, the other wants to pull out, and vice versa.

Whaddya think?

 

Yes, I ran into that. It seems the compression fitting, or whatever they are called, seem to kinda pull out. Since the screws do not mount into the tube but rather they screw into a rubber compression fitting, I would say this 'might' be an issue. However, mine are tight and seem to be flush against the tube.

Jay, if you read this, where did you get those ? I will buy a few of them and test different mounts.

-Bryan

 

Ok, THink I have found it. I reproduced it 3 times.

1. I cleared any codes by re-flashing - no CEL
2. Cranked the car, opened the hood
3. Slightly moved the MAF sensor
4. Chekced the CEL - ON!!!

If this is the culprit, then the way the sensor mounts into the tube may be the issue. Right now the sensor does mount against a machined flat section of the intake tube but it does not have threaded holes to use for the screws. The holes are filled with a rubber compression fitting/nut that pulls itself in as you tighten it.

Can someone else test this ?


-Bryan

* Note: Made a correction. I previously stated that he mounting surface was curved, it is machined flat .

 

I was playing around with the mounting also and noticed the same. I was thinking of bending the MAF mount (curve) so it flushed up against the tube but I was reluctant because of how touchly that MAF senor is.
I know that is the culprit because I did the same test. As soon as I would move the MAF ( a fraction) the CEL would come on.

I'm also thinking of using a washer and bolt on the inside of the tube so it will snug up more. Any suggestions?

Also making another gasket?

Good question Bryan - " Jay where did you get those compression nuts". I would like a spare as well.

 

When I installed my JLT - I used nuts/bolts to better secure the MAF sensor and ran a bead of silicone gasket maker around the MAF's rubber gasket - just to make certain no air could get past the mounting area and that the MAF Sensor was nice and secure. I also ground down the nuts (on the inside) using a dremel - so they wouldn't interfere with airflow and cut down the inside of the hose mounting "nipple" (at the other end of the intake) so as to be less restrictive to air flow.

 

HOTLAP, and CEL's at all ?

-Bryan

 

HOTLAP (and anyone else doing this),
I would exersize extreme caution when using this fix. You have now introduced into your intake stream, a piece of metal (the nut) that has the potencial over time to vibrate loose and be eaten by the engine. I would be very nervous if it were mine.

The Boss Hog

 

OK, i belive I have solved this particular issue. I am going to update my webpage with pics to help othes. I will post back in a few minsutes.

BTW, I agree with you Boss

-Bryan

 

I would deffinatly use some red lock-tite on those nut's and check them at every service. IMO

Hey Brayn, Your car look's amazing! I really like those wheel's and the hood came out great. I wouldn't get one after reading what you had to do to make it right. The guy's at the body shop did a great job on it though, and I'm glad it worked out for you.

A lot of people miss understood my JLT issue's. :bang: It was never personal with any member's on here, I just didn't like the tactic's that were being used by Jay. I also wanted to make sure that no one here was get'n "taken". Jay doesn't want to, or can't answer my valid question's, so that's that. I'm happy with my system, and I hope his work's out for all you guy's, now enough with that.

I really enjoy reading your web page and I thank you for being so detailed as it has helped me a lot! How are your 24 Ib injector's working out for you? Do you now how many adjustment's were nesasary to make them work? I was thinking about geting the FRPP 24 Ib injector's for my Pony.

 

VegasJay, those screen shots of the hood are photoshops the hood will be shot next week . Thank "whiterun" (one of our forum members) for those. Next week I will post the final pics of the completed paint job.

The 24lbs injectors are the stock injectors, at least per SCT that is the size. It is also the size my tuner has tuned for, so they better be .

-Bryan

 

Man that is a good chop! Well if it come's out that good, your in good shape!

I thought the stock injector's were 19 Ib's? I'll have to do some research now.... :bang:

 

Here is the link to the SCT. I trust their response, manily becasue they program for it.

http://www.sctflash.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=162

If you ahve seen other info, please send me a link. I like to have the right answer lol

Bryan

 

I just read your web page Bryan. I am going to hit Home Depot this afternoon and give those expansion nuts a shot. Thanks for the investigative work.

 

My god I just read your hood saga...... I've gotta ask... WHY! I would have returned that piece of crap in a heartbeat!

(Oooops, I just read the thread in exterior mods, I got my answer )

 

It look's like it's copasetic to me. I would also tend to belive them too, as it's thier business to know. I'll do a little "digg'n" though, just so were sure. Next question will be, is there any benifit to the next size up (34-36 Ib/hr), expescialy after I do the head's ect??

 

Hi, Blk05GT. I will pics for the info in just a min.

-Bryan

 

Guy's I will look into the way the MAF mounts and see what I can come up with.
I do think Home Depot sells the rubber inserts, but I don't get them from there.
I will get back to you all tomorrow.
Jay

Also, I am sorry for this issue and I will make it right, so you don't regret your purchace!!!

 

Thanks Jay, I know that is what the membes here want to here. Lets us know what you come us with.

For now, if anyone is having this issue, here is how I resolved it, including PICS I feel you should see

http://www.mymustangpage.com/2005redgt/page19

See the section named " Check Engine Light Mystery" . I hope this helps anyone that may be having a similar CEL problem. Remember, you will need to reflash your ECU to remove the code (or remove the NEG battery connection).

-Bryan

 

Check www.mcmaster.com for the compression nuts. These guys have such an incredible selection of little parts, materials, anything! I use them all the time. Order one day, stuff arrives the next.