Installing Springs on my 05
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I am getting the Eibach ProKit springs for my 05 Mustang GT. Does anyone know how hard it would be to install all of the springs in my driveway? I would probably have to take the front coilovers to a shop who has a spring compressor, but the rest I think could be done without too much trouble. What is everyone's opinion? Let me know.
-Andy
-Andy
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Originally posted by askiles@December 8, 2004, 7:50 PM
I am getting the Eibach ProKit springs for my 05 Mustang GT. Does anyone know how hard it would be to install all of the springs in my driveway? I would probably have to take the front coilovers to a shop who has a spring compressor, but the rest I think could be done without too much trouble. What is everyone's opinion? Let me know.
-Andy
I am getting the Eibach ProKit springs for my 05 Mustang GT. Does anyone know how hard it would be to install all of the springs in my driveway? I would probably have to take the front coilovers to a shop who has a spring compressor, but the rest I think could be done without too much trouble. What is everyone's opinion? Let me know.
-Andy
#7
Hate to dig this up from the grave, but I sure would like to know of someone who's done the install themselves. I've got some 18"-ers on the way THIS WEEK and would love to kill two birds with one stone.
So can someone PLEASE tell me how to do it on an '05 or point me in the direction of some instructions. Is working with struts and coilovers as death-defying as I've heard?
Thanks!
So can someone PLEASE tell me how to do it on an '05 or point me in the direction of some instructions. Is working with struts and coilovers as death-defying as I've heard?
Thanks!
#8
You WILL almost certainly need an alignment. I removed the strut assembly myself , then took to my local garage to replace springs. I then put on car and took to garage and they aligned. $75. labor...I did use the Steeda plates, although you can slot the struts without the plates.
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I highly recommend using strut/spring compressors to change the front springs. These front springs nowadays could kill you if you're not careful with them. I had a Contour spring let loose in a strut compressor not long ago and got lucky I was standing off to the side and no one was nearby. That one could have been dangerous.
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I found that with a spring compressor, which you can rent at the local auto parts store, the job is cake! I have had the front springs out about 3 times to change them out since I initially installed the Eibach's, and again, it is pretty easy. It took me about 45 minutes per front side, and then about 20 minutes for the rear. The last tine I did it, I changed the front springs in an hour. I love working on my care anyways. Good luck.
-Andy
-Andy
#11
my friend and i pulled the front springs off without one... they just shot forward a little bit when they came loose, but really not enough to warrant a spring compressor, i was holding it off to the side wth my foot and that was just fine.
We did the whole car in under an hour, with no lift. We just used a floor jack and jacked up the whole back end at once, and then each front side by itself.
We did the whole car in under an hour, with no lift. We just used a floor jack and jacked up the whole back end at once, and then each front side by itself.
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I just did the exact thing to my GT last weekend. I rented a strut spring compressor from Checker Auto for $6 (plus the $52 "you bought it until you return it" fee that has already been refunded to my account). It took me about 3 hours to do all the springs in my garage. No compressed air (would have been nice, but my forearms can take the strain of unwinding those compressors!).
The first strut was the hardest. It actually works out pretty easy once you see how all the bits go together. The trick putting it back together (for me anyway) was to slip the bottom bolt of the strut (that attachs the strut to the hub) with the hub pitched out (I guess that would be about 40 degrees positive camber...). Then, I guided the strut into place in the strut well with one hand will rotating the hub back to the normal upright position. This lifted the strut right up.
Once the studs go into the right holes, I can then put the other bolt through the strut to hub position to hold everthing in place while I stood up and started the nuts from above. I tightened everything down on the upper strut mount and then went back down and bolted everything back together down below. Pretty easy actually.
Just be sure the arrow on the top of the upper strut mount is pointing out (left or right depending on the side you are working on) or you will never get all four studs to go into the right holes.
The back was cake and took MAYBE 20 minutes total (most of that jacking up the back and putting jack stands under the car and then letting it back down). What I did was jack each side up high and put a jack stand under the front lower control arm mount (body).
Once the tail was in the air, I put the jack under the diff and LIGHTLY put a bit of pressure on it. DO NOT try to lift the car by the differential. The axle tubes are so thin they will bend due to the pressure...
All that was left was to remove both lower shock bolts and then release the pressure on the jack. Reach up in above the axle and pull each of the factory springs our (lift them off the lower perch) and replace them with the Eibach parts (lettering right side up!).
Getting it back to gether was the opposite: jack of diff, reinstall shock bolts, jack of one side of the car and remove the jack stand, then jack up the other side and remove that jack stand. Then stand back and enjoy the look of your lowered car!
The first strut was the hardest. It actually works out pretty easy once you see how all the bits go together. The trick putting it back together (for me anyway) was to slip the bottom bolt of the strut (that attachs the strut to the hub) with the hub pitched out (I guess that would be about 40 degrees positive camber...). Then, I guided the strut into place in the strut well with one hand will rotating the hub back to the normal upright position. This lifted the strut right up.
Once the studs go into the right holes, I can then put the other bolt through the strut to hub position to hold everthing in place while I stood up and started the nuts from above. I tightened everything down on the upper strut mount and then went back down and bolted everything back together down below. Pretty easy actually.
Just be sure the arrow on the top of the upper strut mount is pointing out (left or right depending on the side you are working on) or you will never get all four studs to go into the right holes.
The back was cake and took MAYBE 20 minutes total (most of that jacking up the back and putting jack stands under the car and then letting it back down). What I did was jack each side up high and put a jack stand under the front lower control arm mount (body).
Once the tail was in the air, I put the jack under the diff and LIGHTLY put a bit of pressure on it. DO NOT try to lift the car by the differential. The axle tubes are so thin they will bend due to the pressure...
All that was left was to remove both lower shock bolts and then release the pressure on the jack. Reach up in above the axle and pull each of the factory springs our (lift them off the lower perch) and replace them with the Eibach parts (lettering right side up!).
Getting it back to gether was the opposite: jack of diff, reinstall shock bolts, jack of one side of the car and remove the jack stand, then jack up the other side and remove that jack stand. Then stand back and enjoy the look of your lowered car!
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